table saws and plunge saw (with guide rails tracks) advice/recommendations...

[trvlr]

I have Worx (Pro) model plunge saw, but it doesn't have a track system with it nor is there one about that's compatible; also it doesn't allow angle cuts... There are times when a track would be useful, especially having gone the route of angle metal strips and so on as substitute for one, with all the limitations etc. of that approach. Thus looking for a replacement for Worx with a compatible track option

Likewise... thinking about a table saw, but no experience with one at all; other than seeing them used in local timber yards and on-line videos various. Which are worth serious consideration - withut breaking the bank. Likely use is of course general wood working. Prefer something that's a step or three above basic/bog standard DIY; as I like tools which will deliver accurate output when correctly set up/used.

Years ago in Canada I had a Crafstman radial arm saw; PIA to setup/calibrate, but once dun a vey useful item to have.

I do have a DeWalt Mitre saw (mitre cuts/angles in both planes) which is worth the cash. But there are times when one could use a decent track saw and/or table saw too...

Would appreciate thoughts, suggestions etc. for a reasonably priced (semi or fully Pro) replacement for the Worx and of course re' a table saw (perhaps a semi portable one if that's a viable option)?

 

[Jameshow]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Excel-254m...Fhl-GwKHMGKxmhVEiBFnlbYymcN2KtxUaAu1ZEALw_wcB

 

[Bingy man]

Both the track saw and t/saw have their advantages if you have the use for them . If you only work with sheet goods and panels ( furniture board , plywood, mdf etc then the track saw is probably the best and safest option. However like your mitre saw and a track saw they have their limitations and thats usually where the t/ saw comes in . It’s down to what you intend to make ..but have a look at the various safety threads on this forum as you will probably of watched some questionable videos online.

 

[trvlr]

Thanks for the above... I realised after re-reading my initial post and then your response that I ought to have said "plunge saws".

I'm inclined to agree that a plunge saw (with decent track lengths is likely more use and more convenientthan is a table saw; and possibly a little or lot safer too? Though if I had shed loads of cash I'd probably go for both... Having viewed a few videos showing plunge/track systems with sheet material I can see why the plunge has the edge over standard circular saw (with/without a track...). And I seem to note that the two types of saw use different track systems?

It would be nice to be able to trim down timber ranging from 3x1 to 6x1 (in olde money) and even a little wider and/or thicker...(and even trim down 2x1 a little)? This of course besides cutting panel/sheet material, for which I would be using it at times.

T-saws do seem useful in both respects. Would allow strip cutting from wider widths; and would do trimming jobs OK, and possibly more easily than a plunge saw/track system; but for larger areas of sheet material (in excess of say 4x4 in olde money) seem less convenient unless one has the full blown large table area Pro versions as found in some timber yards? Where I've seen a T-saw score of course is that one can trim off a very narrow strips off any timber (sheet material or otherwise) if required, but would that be possible with decent plunge saw and track? T-saws seem perfect for squaring up panels material and so on due to the way they can be setup?

Which having said what I'm seeking now is ideas, suggestions re' which makes/models of "plunge saw" are worth having; and have a range of compatible tracks for them; and also T-saws - should I dare to push the pennies a bit further...

 

[accipiter]

For which plunge saws are 'worth' having it depends on how deep your pocket is . Many use Festool...

I'm not a pro and can't afford such so settled on one of the Erbauer plunge saws from my local Screwfix. Comes with 2 700mm tracks and decent clamps. I also added 2 of the Evolution 1400 tracks... for cutting 8x4 sheets. I also made a post about "choices" - but that was re 'track saws' *or* 'plunge'...

I'll just put forward that you check out - if not already done - the YouTube vidoes on plunge saws by @petermillard ... he's covered many makes - along with EXCELLENT videos to guide in the use of/setting up plunge saws and using them.

Other YouTube videos, by others, will show how the plunge saws can be used/adapted for use in the workshop - if you have the space.

I've also a (cheap) Titan TS... does my needs for trimming down lengths of timbers to width - wouldn't want to try cutting large sections of sheet materials up on it though.

 

[TomGW]

A track saw can easily trim a narrow strip off a wider panel but it's difficult to trim a narrow strip off a narrow board. Indeed a track saw, on its own, isn't much use for smaller materials.

 

[ColinDeVelen]

Whilst I agree that a track saw and track on it's own will have difficulty doing this, I built a nice simple jig that allowed me to cut very thin strips (2mm thick) off of the edge of boards / 2×4's etc. Photos below. In this case I used the DW rail. The two screws can be used for micro adjustment, should you feel the need. The rail at the back is your zero stop (or the position where the blade is up against the fixture) which can also be used for jointing boards that are thinner than your rail. If you want a taper, just angle the rail on the jig.
You can also make your own rails with a straight edge, router scrap plywood and MFC. This allows you to make a rail that extends past the side of the saw, giving you both sides of the kerf. You can also then chop home made rails down with no qualms, attach fences to cut repeatable angles. If you box clever you can make a simple miter saw from this. (I did.)
You can also use the same home made rail as a router guide, plunge through the rail, and you can set up for grooves etc.

 

[Nick_]

I have a Makita track saw that is great for 90% of things, particularly cutting sheets for cabinets etc, and I expect if I had a permanent setup could do 99%. But because I work outside and have to drag everything out when I want to use it, making some small cuts feels a pain.

I was even considering a Proxxon table saw FET for small pieces, but it’s too expensive for the use I’d give it.

Perhaps I should just get a very nice handsaw for the smaller bits.

 

[RobNichols]

Hand saw for small bits would definitely be my recommendation. Japanese saws are a popular solution, but I'd recommend a crosscut carcass saw. Something like the Veritas carcass saw would be a good start. And the first thing to make using it would be a bench hook.

Even if you eventual do buy one of the fast spinning finger removers, you'll find for a lot of jobs a hand saw is a quicker and easier to use.

 

[Nick_]

Hand saw for small bits would definitely be my recommendation. Japanese saws are a popular solution, but I'd recommend a crosscut carcass saw. Something like the Veritas carcass saw would be a good start. And the first thing to make using it would be a bench hook.

Even if you eventual do buy one of the fast spinning finger removers, you'll find for a lot of jobs a hand saw is a quicker and easier to use.

That looks like a very nice saw. No noisy motor, no batteries or plugs I’ll wander over to the handbook section.

 

[RobNichols]

The Veritas saws are a very affordable pathway into hand saws. I prefer the older style saws, but a new one is likely to cost you at least twice the price of the Veritas.

The cheapest route is second hand, but there is a lot of variation and I think you need to learn to sharpen saws before you can get the best from old saws. You could easily pickup a very blunt saw cheap and that may well put you off. Buying new at least gives you the knowledge of how a sharp saw behaves.

 

[trvlr]

I haven't seen a bench hook since I left 6th form Grammer Skool way back in the middle of the last century. It had been a public (private in the US/Canada) school until the education act of '44 came into force and was transformed into a Grammar School. We were fortunate to have both woodwork shops, and later - before I departed for the growed up werld - we got metal workshops (with lathes, milling machines and the rest). Also had an excellent art department, and assorted science labs too. Three/four rugby fields, one of which doubled as cricket field in the summer; and a sports field... The school now sadly gone thanks to reforms and so on which totally destroyed a superb school with a series of "improvements" in the educational system in later years... It was on par with the local "public" schools in every respect; if not better in some respects...

That simple hook is just that "simple"; and easy to use and more useful at times I feel than typical mitre box when making straight 90 degree cuts...

 

[trvlr]

Agree that there are times when hand saw is the better option. One ought to have hand saws various "handy"... at all times.