Table saw/sander

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newt

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I was looking at a US woodworking site and there was a number of postings regarding burn marks when ripping hardwood on a table saw. Some bright spark suggested that the blade may be blunt, to slow a feed and or there were to many teeth.
Then to my amazement there were several posts recommending the following; stick abrasive circular discs to each side of the blade so that the outer diameter was just below the gullet, use the saw as normal the blade cuts the abrasive sands the edge at the same time: therefore no burn marks. This appeared to be common practice, but it was at the beginning of April, so I wonder.
 
Steve I think it could have been a spoof, but so many stated that they use it, they even have a supply of ready made abrasives with the US 5/8 hole in the centre. If it is true the mind boggles at what would happen if the woood binds on the blade; at best it could stop at worse it could be nasty if a board was thrown back at the operater.
 
Sadly I have seen this done before on American website - and not in April
 
A common source of burning especially in crosscutting timbers such as sycamore, beech and maple is that the blade has simply been ground too many times which leads to a reduction in the clearance angle behind the tip. The solution is to use a newer blade. When ripping these timbers the solution (assuming your blade is not at it's tenth grind) is to use a blade with fewer teeth or simply to feed faster.

And as for using abrasives on a spinning blade, what do you expect from a country which regards the use of table saws without guards or splitters and a long through rip fence as "safe practice" (or maybe that's an "april Fool" as well) :roll:

Scrit
 
I have seen it on a few websites.

Check out some of the American kayak and canoe building forums for more hair raising antics.
My favourite is fitting a 200 odd mm thin kerf blade onto a gert big cast iron table saw for cutting Cedar strips. :shock:
 
Scrit wrote

A common source of burning especially in crosscutting timbers such as sycamore, beech and maple is that the blade has simply been ground too many times which leads to a reduction in the clearance angle behind the tip. The solution is to use a newer blade. When ripping these timbers the solution (assuming your blade is not at it's tenth grind) is to use a blade with fewer teeth or simply to feed faster.
I find this to be good advise. :D

Scrit wrote
And as for using abrasives on a spinning blade, what do you expect from a country which regards the use of table saws without guards or splitters and a long through rip fence as "safe practice" (or maybe that's an "april Fool" as well)

And inspite of our ignorance we survive. Amazing isn't it. :D

Travis
 
Well Scrit thank goodness not everyone over the pond indulges in sand while you cut.
 
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