table saw Induction motor wiring

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Dlyxover

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I have a Record Power TS200c and the motor makes a scratching/grinding sounds as it slows down when turned off.
If you spin the blade by hand the sound is also present.
when running there are no issues.

Off ebay a used motor from a record power TSPP250, the same motor I was told both 2hp.

It needs a new start capacitor (I have a replacement coming) hums and dose not spin.

I've looked in the wiring box of the replacement motor there are 3 wires coming from the motor (red, white and blue). The previous owner wire a 13a plug to it too show it humming and not spinning.
IMG-7850.jpg


On my original motor there are 4 wires coming from the motor (red, white, blue and black).
IMG-7851.jpg


I was hoping it would be a direct replacement.
The TS200c has a NVR switch that has 4 wires earth, brown, white and black

Dose anyone know how the replacement motor should be wired?

any help appreciated
 
You didn't need a replacement motor, that's just the centrifugal switch making contact on wind-down as it should. You can reduce the noise a bit by spraying silicone/PTFE spray on the plastic contacts of the switch if you take that end of the motor off.
 
I thought it would be repairable, the replacement motor was £30 and a spare motor is never a bad thing.

Wanted to swop the motors incase anything went wrong and don't want to be left without a table saw.

Was planning on replacing the centrifugal switch.
 
Dlyxover":9gfr6nvy said:
Was planning on replacing the centrifugal switch.

You don't need to! It's working as intended but with cheap motors they can be a bit noisy compared to say a good old Brook motor and this can be remedied by a little dry lubrication on the plastic parts to stop them squeaking.

Frankly, I'd be much more worried if you couldn't hear any noise!
 
The new motor appears to have been miswired - the incoming neutral should go to the red motor wire. No wonder the motor doesn’t spin.

The incoming wires to the old motor look like they incorporate an extra circuit, possibly an overload/thermal switch within the motor windings.

Decide which motor you want to use in light of Trevanion’s advice, then we can work on that. It may be worth a call to Record support for a wiring diagram.
 
guineafowl21 - completely right, wired as you suggested and it fires up perfectly.

I want to keep the ts200 motor in it, I'll act on Trevanions advice.

I have to remove the cast iron top off to access the motor and I have the table saw mounted on a wheel base with drawers under it.

I'll report back, thanks for the help
 
I have recently bought a TSPP250 table saw off eBay.

The table saw trips my RCD when I turn it on.

The existing capacitor says it’s 20uf. I measured it as 10uf. So I installed a new one.

The table saw still trips out.
94699813-04C7-4817-844C-0C0F1B2E649A.jpeg

After reading the above from @guineafowl21 I swapped the positive and negative supply cables.

The table saw still trips.

Any ideas what this could be?

@Dlyxover would you interested in selling your replacement TSPP250 motor if I cannot get mine running?

Thanks guys, Happy New Year.
 
Last edited:
I have recently bought a TSPP250 table saw off eBay.

The table saw trips my RCD when I turn it on.

The existing capacitor says it’s 20uf. I measured it as 10uf. So I installed a new one.

The table saw still trips out.
View attachment 100224
After reading the above from @guineafowl21 I swapped the positive and negative supply cables.

The table saw still trips.

Any ideas what this could be?

@Dlyxover would you interested in selling your replacement TSPP250 motor if I cannot get mine running?

Thanks guys, Happy New Year.


Is the main breaker tripping?
 
I swapped the positive and negative supply cables.
Bear in mind, AC doesn’t have positive and negative - swapping the leads around rarely makes a difference to the machine. You generally shouldn’t, because the live/neutral polarity is a safety earthing system.

RCDs and MCBs trip for different reasons. If all three are tripping, I would start with a visual inspection of all the wiring.

Next stage would be to disconnect L and N at the motor junction box, tape the ends, and test the starter switch on its own. It should still latch (and unlatch if the power is interrupted).
 
Yh I thought this but with an RCD tripping on earth fault I wanted to give it a try.

I have previously checked the supply cabling and starter to the motor connection box which all worked as expected.
 
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