table saw fence parallel?

[sunnybob]

Bodgers....
Those are the kind of instructions that make me wish I was a homicidal maniac and knew where the author lived.
To quote;
be sure to check the alignment of the blade to
the miter slot first. After confirming that those elements are aligned,

And if they arent???????????????????????????????

The fence is aligned with the mitre slot, its the blade that isnt. The mechanism is cheaply built and the whole motor blade assembly is resting on the threaded section, with no real sideways adjustment. I might have another bash today (literally bash) to see if i can move everything skew.

 

[novocaine]

Flip it over.
If it has a bottom remove it.
Look for 8-12 odd screws that hold the table to box (assuming the drive and blade assemble is hung off the box like most cheaper saws). Undo a nach or 2. Enough that the table will move with a little bump but not wiggle about.
Flip it over and set everything up.
Flip it again and tighten a couple of those screws. Flip and check. Now do them all up.
Done and dusted now set your fence as in the Manuel (sure you can find one of them in Cyprus)

 

[lurker]

I think I would just ignore it.

Because you are lumbered with a fence that runs all the way to the back, what you DO need is a sub fence to slot over your fence that ends after the blade starts.
Easy three sided box out of Mdf.
That way what happens at the rear of the blade is of little consequence.
Somewhere here Steve Maskery describes the posh one he made. It's useful anyway because you can attach feather boards and the like to it.

 

[Lons]

I just made a sub fence from a bit of Corian ( could just as easily be ply or mdf ) and attached it with bolts and T nuts. Works very well and is easily adjusted or removed if necessary.

 

[sunnybob]

I have good news from the battlefront! Must be the sunshine today after a week of rain but things went well.
With brute force (some) and ignorance (a lot) i have achieved the impossible dream! :lol: :lol:

The motor assembly pivot adjustment does work, BUT (and this is the bit nobody told me (hammer) (hammer) ) I have to loosen the swivel lock at the front to enable the adjustment.
Tightening that swivel seizes all lateral movement of the motor and blade as well as tilt.
Might seem obvious to you experts, but as a newbie it was a steep learning curve.
It was still very time consuming, because moving the rear a lot meant the front moved a little, and even tightening the two securing bolts had an effect on the dial gauge reading. But I dont give up easily :roll:

I have the difference down to a fully acceptable 0.08 mm.

Now to move on to the fence after lunch. I understand all this about short fences, I may well make a bolt on one later, but first I have to true up the one I have. I reckon a 1 mm adjustment to the rear locating bolt will be enough to stop it pinching the wood to the blade, and a couple 1 mm shims behind the lower fence securing bolts will give me 90 degrees from the table.
I'm getting to like this saw. 8) 8) 8)

 

[Bodgers]

I have good news from the battlefront! Must be the sunshine today after a week of rain but things went well.
With brute force (some) and ignorance (a lot) i have achieved the impossible dream! :lol: :lol:

The motor assembly pivot adjustment does work, BUT (and this is the bit nobody told me (hammer) (hammer) ) I have to loosen the swivel lock at the front to enable the adjustment.
Tightening that swivel seizes all lateral movement of the motor and blade as well as tilt.
Might seem obvious to you experts, but as a newbie it was a steep learning curve.
It was still very time consuming, because moving the rear a lot meant the front moved a little, and even tightening the two securing bolts had an effect on the dial gauge reading. But I dont give up easily :roll:

I have the difference down to a fully acceptable 0.08 mm.

Now to move on to the fence after lunch. I understand all this about short fences, I may well make a bolt on one later, but first I have to true up the one I have. I reckon a 1 mm adjustment to the rear locating bolt will be enough to stop it pinching the wood to the blade, and a couple 1 mm shims behind the lower fence securing bolts will give me 90 degrees from the table.
I'm getting to like this saw. 8) 8) 8)

Good that you got the hard part sorted.

You will probably end up with the world's most accurate DeWalt saw

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[sunnybob]

I'm there. :shock: =D> =D> =D> =D>

problem now is I cant blame the machine when it all goes pear shaped. :roll:

 

[Inspector]

Bob I don't want to spill your can of worms but when you tilt the blade to 45º is the blade still parallel to the mitre slot? I don't know if it can be adjusted if it isn't (not many are) but you should be aware if you ever need to make angled cuts.

Glad you didn't need to pullout the sledge hammer.

Pete

 

[sunnybob]

I have no immediate plans to cut bevels. My main reason to purchase the table saw was to cut straight lines because no matter how good a bandsaw is, I cant get a finished edge with it.
But from what I learnt today i think it will be ok, as I had to move the entire mechanism including the tilt.
As and when I get a bad bevel, then the sledgehammer appears =D>
I've moved the fence square to the blade (that was easy peasy =D> =D> ) but upon very close inspection the aluminium box section of the fence is bowed inwards. so the bottom edge and the top edge are in line, but you can see daylight through the middle. I dont expect that to be a problem as it is literally 0.1 mm.

 

[screwpainting]

Now drop, and repeat.

 

[LittleOaks]

at the risk of really confusing things, backlash on threaded drives (eg adjsutment) is well known in engineering and as with micrometers, you wind back then forward to the settings to eliminate backlash on each measure,
this does impact on all settings on the saw as vibration will ease the pressure on the screwthread and the pressure will relax slightly . even when 'locked', there is always a small amount of tolerance or the thread will bind and not work !
also has anyone mentioned the riving knife alignment? I have a real problem on my AXi saw with getting the vertical and horizontal alignment just so, it is adjustable but a pain to get right - still getting there !
hope this is of interest.

 

[Bodgers]

at the risk of really confusing things, backlash on threaded drives (eg adjsutment) is well known in engineering and as with micrometers, you wind back then forward to the settings to eliminate backlash on each measure,
this does impact on all settings on the saw as vibration will ease the pressure on the screwthread and the pressure will relax slightly . even when 'locked', there is always a small amount of tolerance or the thread will bind and not work !
also has anyone mentioned the riving knife alignment? I have a real problem on my AXi saw with getting the vertical and horizontal alignment just so, it is adjustable but a pain to get right - still getting there !
hope this is of interest.

TS200?

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