Table Saw burning

[segovia]

Any idea why my table saw burns timber when I cut on an angle

I ran this piece of mahogany against the fence with the blade at 35 degrees to put the chamfers on it

J

 

[monkeybiter]

Looks to me that your fence is not quite parallel with the blade [when at 90'], also did you cut that with the blade leaning toward the fence and with the wood 'under' the angled blade?

 

[segovia]

Hi

Yes blade leaning toward the fence with wood under the blade, that was the only way I could see how to do it.

J

 

[Richard S]

Try moving your fence to the left hand side of the blade (assuming it is a right tilt saw) so that it is the waste piece that is trapped under the blade and the keeper is on the upper side. It is also safer this way.
Cheers
Richard

 

[Chrispy]

Did you wind to blade over to 30' and stop or did you wind further and then back to 30'? cos with my saw when ajusting the angle the blade etc. twists ever so slightly pinching the work as your is but if you wind the blade back a bit to take out the slack it twists the other way and you may find it works better. works for me anyway.

 

[andersonec]

The thin piece coming off the block needs to be 'under' the blade

Andy

 

[Steve Maskery]

If your blade tilts to the right, which is most common on TSs, then you need to get into the habit of moving the fence to the left, like on a BS, for bevel cuts. This prevents the workpiece form getting trapped twixt blade and fence, resulting in the burning you have experienced. It also increases the risk of kickback, so in a way you are lucky.
By moving the fence to the left, the workpiece is above the blade, not trapped a t all, and the waste is free to move away from the blade, also not trapped at all.
This is why the best modern-designed TS's have the blade tilting towards the left, then this is not a problem.
S

 

[segovia]

Thanks, I never thought of moving the fence over to the left, I'll try it and see how it goes.