table saw blade

[Ttrees]

You need a jointed edge to register against the fence.
This would not got down well if you had got a more powerful saw, hence my concern.
It sounds like your watching that John Heisz plonker.

Get used to the hand plane
Tom

 

[sunnybob]

Tom, I dont understand almost all of that post.
when using this saw the cut edge is always worse than the fence edge, regardless of whether its sawn or router smoothed. I cant make a sled for it due to the table only being 300 mm across, with barely 200 mm between the blade and the edge of the table.
And I have repeated endlessly on my threads that I am not able to use hand planes due to arthritis.
I HAVE to have power tools, even if that makes me a second class woodworker.

 

[Ttrees]

Even though a good blade is probably required for setting your machine up,
I still think thats not the silver bullet if you omit the rest.

If the parts of the saw are solid
eg ...fence is able to be locked securely
The saw blade has no wobble.... A good blade means the sawplate is precisely made flat, (and not a
metal pringle shape) if that makes sense...
And while powered off, checking the blade wont move if you grasp it, meaning the arbour has no play either...

Something to check for after that is the arbour flanges for dirt/burrs/crud
as these can cause wobble, so check that when you get a good blade on, as these might need three seconds rubbing on a surface plate.
These arbor flanges needs to be contacting only on the very outer circumference because when
you tighten it you have full or at least way more contact with the blade locking it securely.
So with that out of the way you can set up the rest...

The blade is parallel with the fence and table slots, or a thou or two canted away at the back of the rip fence to prevent kickback/burning .
Your blade is sharp, and a half decent one at that, as said above.
The ZCI is level with the table

And your stock is jointed so it is as true as the fence
You should get satisfactory results
Tom

 

[MattRoberts]

Tom, not sure why you're focusing on jointed edges and talking about wobble?

Bob asked for a recommendation on a decent blade - I don't think he's mentioned problems with wobble or the fence once?

 

[Ttrees]

Look back on Sunnybobs previous posts Matt
I'd hate to see one of us get injured, that's all
Tablesaws are ferocious things

 

[sunnybob]

Tom,
fear not. I have spent a full lifetime working on machines that can maim or kill if you get overconfident, and I still have all my fingers (a couple have small scars to keep me focused though).

The ryobi is just too small and too low a tolerance spec. to do what I want but I cant afford a bigger machine, so the new blade will hopefully improve my output.

 

[smartecosse]

I replaced the woeful blade on my table saw a few months back.

After a search on here I called Cutting Solutions and had a blade arrive within a couple of days....wasn't particularly cheap but the quality of cut even though it is only a 48 tooth ( I think) if great.

 

[memzey]

Atkinson Walker or Wealden (also made by AW) are great saws as well (made in the U.K. too).

 

[topchippyles]

A good quality saw for some one on a budget is the Titan TTB674TAS 254mm Table Saw 230-240V (9486J) Great Value Product
Product rating
4.2 out of 5 stars
(284)

 

[topchippyles]

Screwfix check the customer rating at £109 with a 100mm cut is great value,I have put the titan in my small workshop and its not far behind my 3 phase wadkin on power

 

[MattRoberts]

That's all great, but this thread is about a saw blade, not a tablesaw...

 

[MikeJhn]

The easiest way to prevent chipping on a surface you want is to take a 2mm cut first on that face and then turn the board over and make the final cut through the whole surface.

Mike

 

[sunnybob]

Matt, tell me a thread that doesnt wander
People (in their attempts to help) will always try to offer alternatives, sometimes even after the decision has been made. No big deal to me =D>

Mike, my saw is not adjustable for depth, and I dont cut panels on it anyway. medium small hardwood pieces along the grain is my sole use for this saw.
Nothing happening this week, visitors have tied me down to being a tourist guide and I am still waiting to hear if I can get any discounts in the UK.

Tempus is definitely not fugit around here.

 

[MikeJhn]

Bob

I have the same problem with our house in France, seems we have more friends than we ever thought possible, all summer they come out of the woodwork and visit.

Mike

 

[sunnybob]

To be fair, both our children have married and produced three grandkids between them since we moved here, so thats our summer taken care of, but yes, people we only saw every few years (or longer) when we lived in the same country now feel they really should "keep in touch" more often.

We dont mind too much though because none of them are freeloaders, it just eats into my workshop time.
Just had to drive them down to nissi beach, and of course will have to pick them up later, so even when theyre not actually in the house they still take up time. (hammer) (hammer) :lol: 8)

 

[Ttrees]

I just thought this might come in handy Sunnybob
since you mentioned short parts on the TS
(whilst it is generally frowned upon, to do so, you might see a tip or two)
I won't vouch for it though as all safe, since I have not been using a TS for 40 years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knotpj60bsk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmGiO5lPS1I


And just an additional run down on safety bearing in mind that all this advice is from the USA,
Which it should be common knowledge that this practice is
non compliant with safer European safety standards !

I think everyone should read and watch all the info they can on TS use
if they care about their fingers and other body parts/people.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07uHhrYKDLA

And a Kelly Mehler masteryourtablesaw video for good measure that I was going to link is gone
It was fairly good

Tom

 

[Lons]

Hi Bob

I would add my recommendation for Freud blades also, they're decent quality at reasonable price.

It sounds is if you've done most of the checks on the saw so that being the case the most likely culprit is the blade.

I've had all sorts over the years and some of the thin plate cheap blades are almost unusable as they vibrate like hell.
Out of interest I have 3 tablesaws. My SIP 10" cast iron currently using 2 Freud blades and I rip and crosscut anything from thick hardwood to thin ply and plastic with few problems. The little saw on my Kity K5 which has a 200mm Freud blade and is remarkably efficient and a really cheap old site saw from B&Q which wouldn't cut paper , until I fitted an Atkinson blade then the difference was chalk and cheese.

It's similar to a bandsaw in that as soon as you fit a quality blade the machine is transformed as long of course that the machine is properly set up.

As an aside to that, I onc needed a blade desperately for my DeWalt mitre saw while on site in the middle of a job and all I could get was a Silverline blade for about a tenner. I used it once and threw it in the bin as there was so much vibration it cut a kerf 3 times the thickness of the blade and felt unsafe!

cheers
Bob

 

[sunnybob]

I wont even type the "S" word, after I broke one of their engineers vices by tightening it by hand.
The cast body snapped in two, and I hadnt had any weetabix that day.

the two blades I have are ryobis original, and an axminster. Not thin (2.8 mm kerf) but just wont cut clean. Theyve both been sharpened by a professional company here. I've been to the shop and seen the machines working. looks very impressive, but I have nothing to compare them to.

The visitors go tomorrow, friday will a trip to the capital to see whats what locally.

 

[Sideways]

I have a 10 inch metabo sliding mitre saw with an induction motor. An excellent saw. The metabo factory blade is 60 tooth for crosscut work and the finish it leaves is "planed" smooth. A 60 tooth blade is common on good 10 inch mitre saws and I would recommend one for crosscuts on your table saw too - but do change to a lower tooth count blade if you are going to do much ripping.

I haven't used the freud blades but I have handled them planning for my next replacement blades. You can tell from inspection that the design and quality is superior. I'd have no hesitation buying one.

 

[MikeJhn]

Its all very subjective, a table saw is not really the ideal power tool to cross cut on, sloppy mitre gauges and not much better sliding tables, unless you take a few days setting them up, the ideal cross cutting tool is one designed to do the job, and has sufficient adjustability to make it accurate, a table saw is really designed to cut boards or bulk timbers into smaller cross sections, only you can decide what it is your really need, cross cut or table saw, neither will do both exactly, but both of them will do what they are designed for.

Mike