T - track bolts

[Monkey Mark]

Is it just me, or do T-track bolts seem silly expensive for what they are? :shock:

I think m6 roofing bolts or coach bolts may be a better choice.

 

[n0legs]

You are correct on both counts :lol:
Get the file out and adjust some bolts, save the pounds

 

[Steve Maskery]

I use flange nuts like these:
http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ ... duct_id=61

If I rout my own slots they work fine straight out of the packet, and if I need to use them in 1/2" T-Track like this:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... a+m_dk2052

then I simply give each side of the flange a few strokes with a file to reduce them from 14mm to 12.5 or thereabouts.

I guess the costs come down to economies of scale. Ordinary bolts are made by the gazillion, which is why they can be made at a very low price. T-track bolts are not.

 

[skronk]

I use flange nuts like these:
http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ ... duct_id=61

If I rout my own slots they work find straight out of the packet.

Steve, do you mean you rout the t-slot ready to use without the track ?
If so...how do you do it ?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Yes, that is what I mean.

I rout a groove 14mm wide and as deep as I need.
The I rout a rebate each side of that groove, usually 6mm deep.
Then I glue in a piece of wood or MDF to fill the upper area from rebate to rebate, leaving a wide, very shallow tunnel underneath it.
Then I rout through the infill to make a T-slot.

Obviously it's not as robust as ali channel, but for stuff that is going to be used infrequently, it's fine.

S

 

[skronk]

Yes, that is what I mean.

I rout a groove 14mm wide and as deep as I need.
The I rout a rebate each side of that groove, usually 6mm deep.
Then I glue in a piece of wood or MDF to fill the upper area from rebate to rebate, leaving a wide, very shallow tunnel underneath it.
Then I rout through the infill to make a T-slot.

Obviously it's not as robust as ali channel, but for stuff that is going to be used infrequently, it's fine.

S

I understand. I was going to buy a cheapo cutter.....but not easy to find if you're not in USA, then they want as much for postage as the cost of the bit.... :shock: :shock:

 

[Steve Maskery]

Tell me about it. I've not got my RT set up yet, but I have left only the table itself, the plate and all my cutters went in the Haul. I had lots, over 1K worth. I'm having to decide what I really need to replace and what I can live without. As you say, it would be a lot easier in the States, but one it I wanted was 70-odd dollars plus $99 carriage.

 

[Steve Maskery]

The only issue with using my flange bolts with ali T-track is that most of the threaded turret part is pulled above the track, so I have to cut that down too. Sometimes I just use it upside down, which means I have to remove less and retain more thread.

 

[skronk]

The only issue with using my flange bolts with ali T-track is that most of the threaded turret part is pulled above the track, so I have to cut that down too. Sometimes I just use it upside down, which means I have to remove less and retain more thread.

Any idea why its so difficult to get t slot cutter in UK. Seem to be available in Hong Kong and USA at reasonable cost.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Market size. If a vendor imported, say, 10 units, I bet they would sell one or two a year. That is not profitable, it's a lot of money tied up in stock on shelves.S

 

[kmcsmart]

I take a carriage bolt and grind down a bit of the round dome top and it fits nicely in a t-lot. The square shaft on a carriage bolt keeps it from turning in the t-slot.
Karen

 

[heimlaga]

I usually make my own too. I use an angle grinder to cut out a square piece of 20 mm mild steel plate. Then I grind and file rebates along two sides of it and drill a hole in the middle. Than I tap the hole and use locktite to glue in a piece of threaded rod.

 

[siggy_7]

Another vote for using coach bolts - I don't have the patience that others seem to so I use a grinding wheel, takes seconds.

Steve, your method for making T-slots works well I'm sure but sounds a lot more effort than just routing the slot with a cutter. I use a keyhole cutter from Wealden: http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/T_Slot_65.html. Cutter T1552 (available in 1/4" and 8mm shank) makes a 12.7mm slot with an 8mm wide channel, for the princely sum of £12.40.

 

[Wizard9999]

Another vote for using coach bolts - I don't have the patience that others seem to so I use a grinding wheel, takes seconds.

Steve, your method for making T-slots works well I'm sure but sounds a lot more effort than just routing the slot with a cutter. I use a keyhole cutter from Wealden: http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/T_Slot_65.html. Cutter T1552 (available in 1/4" and 8mm shank) makes a 12.7mm slot with an 8mm wide channel, for the princely sum of £12.40.

Siggy

Followed a link to this thread from another on Tee bolts. Wanted to thank you for the link as I am in the process of upgrading a home made router table that somebody kindly gave me. Also made me smile that your post seemed to bring all discussion of workarounds to a rather abrupt halt. Guess it goes to show the power of asking the question on UKW.

Terry.

 

[woodpig]

It's not difficult to drill and tap some steel strip. You could also use alloy.