Super glue bleed

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normal procedure is to get some very fine dust from the project you're turning and pour that into the crack before applying the CA glue. That wooden "slurry" then goes off with slightly more in the way of the colour of the project. It doesn't always work though and frankly most of my ca fixes (big ones anyway) look pretty dark.

I'm pretty much resigned to going the way many others here do and deliberately make a feature of the cracks by adding metallic colours to the glue like gold's, coppers etc. I do find cracking bowls a right pain especially when its the largest diameter blank you have that you've been storing for ages for that really special monster salad bowl........half an hour in and you're chasing a crack right through the wood, hoping you can turn it out without shrinking the diameter to something mediocre!
 
Seal the wood surface with sanding sealer before using CA glue.

Alternate if using very thin CA is to quickly wipe the clue bleed away from the crack with a piece of cloth so that the glue spreads over a bigger area and blends in with the surroundings.
 
CHJ":9ow5nza1 said:
Seal the wood surface with sanding sealer before using CA glue.

Alternate if using very thin CA is to quickly wipe the clue bleed away from the crack with a piece of cloth so that the glue spreads over a bigger area and blends in with the surroundings.

So if you seal it first can you get a colour match Chas? (By using dust from the project)
 
Random Orbital Bob":94kzp5ze said:
So if you seal it first can you get a colour match Chas? (By using dust from the project)

No what I am saying is that if you use thin CA on unsealed wood, instead of just having a hard delimitation line of CA bleed in the surrounding surface, smudging/spreading it over the surrounding area often disguises it and it looks more natural and a better match when you apply a sealant or finish.

There are many CA sealed cracks visible in this piece but by smudging the bleed and surplus CA into surrounding wood I think they blend in more naturally.
DSCN4848.JPG

You could go the whole hog and seal the whole surface with CA if it's a small item and your quick and don't stick the resulting hot cloth to your fingers. That way the whole surface is the same tone.

Sealing the surface wood before using CA reduces the CA bleed near the surface, just as sealing the surface wood before applying acrylics or stain to a feature reduces bleed.

I find dust from the project invariably shows up darker, I nearly always try to make it a contrast, and reshape if necessary so that it looks like a natural knot or defect.

A worm hole for instance will always look like a neat round hole so disfigure/elongate it in line with the grain and fill it with a darker substance.

Get rid of a fine split and make a feature of it, see the darker defects in the back face of this, they were just cracks but opened up and filled, did not look out of place in rustic item.
DSCN4856.JPG
 
Doofusme":1o9zx8zj said:
I was told lemon oil stops superglued bleeding , anyone know if that is correct?
Never tried it, but I would expect it to create problems in itself.
The carrier is basically a 'white spirit' , it will leave the wood with a slow drying oil saturation which could hinder or influence any other finish you wish to apply.
 
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