Sundays Haul.

[Bod]

All for a fiver!
The B&D drill will be the subject of another thread.
The brace is a Skinner, with all the plating intact, just with a small amount of lacquer missing from the wood.
The stones, after washing with hand cleaner, the top is "Charnley forest", middle STD fine carborundum, bottom is "Belgium Corticle"(the cut-throat razor stone)
The chisel is a 1/16th Ibbotson.
Eclipse tap wrench.
Kamasa pliers, hopefully from their good period!
Stones and chisel came from the same stall, after a known dealer had passed.

Bod

Stones after washing.

 

[bugbear]

Nice haul!

BugBear

 

[Bod]

I got lucky, very lucky.
Go every week, usually come away, with nothing special to show for missing Sunday lie-in.

Bod

 

[G S Haydon]

Smashing finds!

 

[adrspach]

Nice finds.
Do you have side pictures of those stones?

 

[Bod]

Nice finds.
Do you have side pictures of those stones?

Top, is the "Charnley forest" the sides are partly covered with plaster of paris(?) where the stone has been removed from a box.
Needs a lot more cleaning up.
Mid, is the carborundum stone, a single grade stone.
Bottom, is the "Belgium" the base is a very different colour, and looks stuck on, rather than natural, as others I have seen.

These have only had a quick clean up with a beaded hand cleaner, and nail brush, all are flat not worn. Any advice as how to clean further would be welcome.

Bod

 

[Yeldoow]

What are your plans for the drill?

I managed to pick up one exactly the same at a car boot last year with a stand for 50p. It works but I think it could do with stripping down and cleaning up but I haven't got round to it yet. Still can't complain for the price!

 

[Rorschach]

If that is indeed a Coticule it is worth big bucks!

 

[Bod]

If that is indeed a Coticule it is worth big bucks!

How can I tell for sure?
Enough to describe it on E-bay, for example.

Bod

 

[Bod]

What are your plans for the drill?

I managed to pick up one exactly the same at a car boot last year with a stand for 50p. It works but I think it could do with stripping down and cleaning up but I haven't got round to it yet. Still can't complain for the price!

You did better than me, you got a stand, I didn't, same cost.
Could you do me a favour please?
Put yours into High gear (unplugged). Can you turn the chuck either way to drive the motor armature, or does only one way turn the armature, and the other way ratchet easily?
I have from my late father in Law, a Black & Decker D720H drill, as new condition, but the chuck does this, and no pressure can be put on the drill bit before the chuck, but not the motor stalls.
Checking this 2nd hand one, it was fine on the day, but now it's home, and a bit cleaner, it's the same!
Looked inside the gear casing, greasy, but no obvious faults, gear change very stiff, has to be pushed home, Low gear is stiff to turn both ways as I would expect.
Before really wading in, it would be helpful to know if anyone else's drill does the same.
This is the orange plastic body, with grey metal gear box, and hammer action. 1970's?
Thanks

Bod

 

[Rorschach]

If that is indeed a Coticule it is worth big bucks!

How can I tell for sure?
Enough to describe it on E-bay, for example.

Bod

Post some close up pics, when you run your fingernail over it it should feel so fine as to make a mark.

 

[ED65]

What a great haul Bod and the price was, extraordinary. If someone hadn't said something already I was going to say that both of the natural stones is individually worth just a tad more than you paid! To the right buyer north of 10 times what you paid so well done =D>

FWIW I'd happily hand over a fiver just for the synthetic if it's like I think it is.

 

[ED65]

These have only had a quick clean up with a beaded hand cleaner, and nail brush, all are flat not worn. Any advice as how to clean further would be welcome.

With the synthetic the usual route is not to over-clean them and remove the factory "fill", although TBH that is easily replaced it's really overkill to do more than clean the surface thoroughly. You can go further with that using organic solvents (white spirit, gasoline, kerosene will all do what's needed) along with more scrubbing, or using a strong solution of washing soda if you'd prefer to go watery instead.

The naturals you don't have to baby at all since they're naturally strong and don't have anything in them you need to worry about stripping out. You can soak them in the above organic solvents for days or weeks if necessary without any harm coming to them, if necessary scrubbing periodically and changing out the solvent with fresh if you like.

Or you could just leave them as they are. They look clean enough to use as they are now.

 

[adrspach]

Reason why I wanted to see the side picture was that the CF looks cut differently from normal cut. From the picture I can not see more evidence as you describe that there is still plaster on it.
The Coticule is beautiful and meaty not sure if the backer is just normal slate or BBW, Once you clean it properly you should know. Unless you use it for fine razors I would probably leave it without flattening and use as it is with water.

Those who say that you can not damage natural hone with usual degreasers/solvents have not seen one damaged by solvent.

 

[bugbear]

Those who say that you can not damage natural hone with usual degreasers/solvents have not seen one damaged by solvent.

I've never heard this! Which stones are vulnerable to which solvents? I know over soaking some natural waterstones can be "unfortunate", resulting in the world's most expensive pile of wet sand, but hadn't heard of others.

BugBear

 

[Bod]

Reason why I wanted to see the side picture was that the CF looks cut differently from normal cut. From the picture I can not see more evidence as you describe that there is still plaster on it.
The Coticule is beautiful and meaty not sure if the backer is just normal slate or BBW, Once you clean it properly you should know. Unless you use it for fine razors I would probably leave it without flattening and use as it is with water.

Those who say that you can not damage natural hone with usual degreasers/solvents have not seen one damaged by solvent.

As per your wish!

Top, side, and bottom of the "Belgium" 8inches long, 1 3/4 inches wide, 7/8ths deep.
The backing has grain to it that is not a grain I've seen in slate. What is BBW?

Top and side of the CF, 10 1/2inches long,2inches wide, 1 1/4inches deep.
Khaki green with brown markings that go right through.

These stones, for cleaning for photos, I used meths to remove the old dried oil, and a coarse file for the plaster of paris! Water was used to bring out the colours. Both stones had been used as oil stones rather than water stones.
Neither stones need any flattening, both are little used!

Bod

 

[ED65]

Those who say that you can not damage natural hone with usual degreasers/solvents have not seen one damaged by solvent.

I can't speak for anyone else but that would certainly be news to me.

To say that it's standard advice to clean oil-gunked stones with solvent would be a bit of an understatement. Anyway, if we assume this can occur (we could do with details please) which alternative(s) would you suggest? Reason I didn't mention the use of alkaline watery solutions for the naturals is I have read of one or two rare examples of one being damaged by caustic solutions – 'damaged', it's just the surface so hardly catastrophic unless the stone is already worn very thin – although I haven't experienced this myself and I don't know anyone who has.

 

[adrspach]

First I will answer about the stones.
Beautiful example of CF which appears like to be made mid 20th century and also cut sideways (in 90 degrees).

Now about some hones getting damaged by leaving them in different solvents and solutions. Issues which you have with it often the reaction between the cleaning solvent, material of the stone as well as what was used as lubricant before.
There are different ways how to degrease hones . Some very fragile you can put in saw dust in warm place and keep changing the saw dust. Next would be similar thing but with fine dry clean sand or chalk. Next the same but with rock salt. These are dry processes.
Next are cold wet processes where you dip, spray paste different solvents, gels, foams and often you add mechanical cleaning with brush or pressure spray.
Next you can add temperature or steam. Often if the one to obey allows stones are cleaned in dishwasher or slow cooked.
Further up with temperature is to bake them in oven.
The wet processes even when they are aggressive they do not damage stones if the exposure is short.

Additional problem can be glued stones where the glue can react with the cleaner as well as with the colour of the cleanes as it can chage colour of the stone itself as it transfers over.

 

[essexalan]

I don't use solvents like petrol, IPA and the like for health reasons so never tried them. My usual process is to mechanically remove the worst of the gunk with a blade, mix washing up liquid and water with the SiC grit I use for flattening stones and flatten away. Seems to clean the stone to a point where non oily honing fluids can be used. Washitas I have cleaned by soaking in a warm solution of bio washing powder and water but then Arkansas/Washita stones appear to be pretty tough and like synthetic oilstones you can boil them. Same procedure can be used for your steel or cast iron frying pans before you re season them BTW. Baking in an oven may cause a non hardening oil to leak out but other oils will set solid as in Turkey stones. Dish washers I have never tried but would have no problem with synthetic oilstones or Ark/Washitas, washing powders are usually alkaline so may damage some natural stones as can acidic solutions.

 

[ED65]

Issues which you have with it often the reaction between the cleaning solvent, material of the stone as well as what was used as lubricant before.

It's the interaction of these solvents with the material of the stone I was curious to read details of. Could you give examples, which solvent(s), which stones, what conditions?