Sunday morning gloat or was I ripped off FINISHED

[shim20]

coming along well. will be a nice plane when finished

 

[bugbear]

The chip breaker had the same elecrolysis treatment but it needed a lot of rubbing down, there is some pitting as I expected but I can live with that

Yep, happily that's normal - the exposed-at-the-top bits of the cap iron and blade often have worse corrosion than the sheltered "business ends". This means that making a plane cosmetically pretty is hard, but making it work is easier

The blade although needing a lot a rubbing down came out much better than the chip breaker

That's odd - I always though round (upper) corners on a blade were a late feature for both Stanley and Record.

BugBear

 

[Lord Nibbo]

That's odd - I always though round (upper) corners on a blade were a late feature for both Stanley and Record.

BugBear

Yes it may have had a transplant at some time

 

[Handrubbed]

If you want to remove the pitting from the chip breaker you can use a method that has worked well for me: use a mill file to "draw file" the entire area where the pitting exists. Draw filing as it is called in the States is holding the file 90degrees to the filing stroke and pulling the file towards you. I usually secure the chip breaker with double-sided carpet tape to a narrow piece of scrap held in a vise. The surface to be filed is secured horizontal at a comfortable height for filing. Keep the file clean as you proceed with the drawing, as the chips will scratch the filed surface. Chip breakers are very mild steel and file rather easily. Blend the filing area into the surrounding metal. When you are finished, use a deburring wheel or progressive Scotch-Brite grades of abrasive to get a satin finish.

 

[BradNaylor]

OK, stupid question from a Normite...


You call it a 'chip breaker'. I know it as a 'cap iron'. What's the difference and when did the name change?

I thought you hand-tool boys only planed beautiful transparantly thin and even coils of full length shavings.

In which case, why would you need something called a 'chip breaker'?
It sounds positively agricultural. No finesse.

:lol:

Nice job by the way, your Lordship!

Cheers
Dan

 

[Lord Nibbo]

OK, stupid question from a Normite...


You call it a 'chip breaker'. I know it as a 'cap iron'. What's the difference and when did the name change?


Cheers
Dan

Chip breaker and cap iron are two different parts.

Chip breaker

Cap iron

 

[Philly]

Dan
The names have slowly changed over time (usually by clever marketing types.... :roll: )
Originally it was a back iron, the correct name as it is fitted to the back of the plane iron. The back iron allowed the use of thinner plane irons (read "cheaper") while the added support of the back iron made it perform like a thicker plane iron.
At some point the name became "chip breaker", which really isn't the correct title as it doesn't truly perform a chip breaking function. It just supports the iron at the cutting edge.
Hope this makes some sense?
Philly

P.s. LN - the last picture is a "lever cap", not cap iron. :wink: Looking forward to seeing your planes shine restored!

 

[bugbear]

OK, stupid question from a Normite...
You call it a 'chip breaker'. I know it as a 'cap iron'. What's the difference and when did the name change?

The chip (or shaving) breaking action is the subject of some controversy, but cap-iron and "chip-breaker" refer to the same part.

Many people use "cap-iron" to avoid starting (yet another) debate over planing action.

In Infill and Bailey pattern planes there is an item called a lever cap, which is different entirely.

BugBear

 

[Lord Nibbo]

P.s. LN - the last picture is a "lever cap", not cap iron. :wink: Looking forward to seeing your planes shine restored!

Ummmm Errr.... Senior moment I'm afraid (homer) in the earlier pic back up this page I called it a "lever cap"
:wink:

 

[Philly]

No problemo, LN :wink:
I wasn't going to let you get away with it after your enormous gloat :lol:
Philly

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Sanded down and ready for finish

Tote and knob off Stanley 10 1/2 after six coats of french polish every one cut back with 0000 wire wool I was going to leave the final coat gloss but it looked too plastic so I cut that back as well then applied a coat of Black Bison paste wax to finish.

It's hard to think it's over 100 years old

 

[Hatherton_wood]

What's the modern alternative to a #10 1/2?

BugBear

Anant #10? Otherwise there isn't anything....

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Stanley 10 1/2 frog gets it's first coat of japaning before it gets it's second coat it will be cooked in the Aga for an hour or two

Bits and pieces polished up and finished

 

[graween]

Hi,

What a nice job !

It's a long time I want to put a new japaning coat on one of my planes. Could you let us know how you do the japaning ? Which product or recipe you are using ?

I'm able to clean all the other parts, but never dare to try on the japanning. I have "Restoring Antique Tools" from Herbert P. Kean but the paint he refers to i could not find it in France.

Thanks a lot, for the infos.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Hi,

What a nice job !

It's a long time I want to put a new japaning coat on one of my planes. Could you let us know how you do the japaning ? Which product or recipe you are using ?

I'm able to clean all the other parts, but never dare to try on the japanning. I have "Restoring Antique Tools" from Herbert P. Kean but the paint he refers to i could not find it in France.

Thanks a lot, for the infos.

Here is as I wrote on my blog

asphaltum, 2 lbs. (0.9 kilo)
boiled linseed oil, 1/2 pint (1/3 Litre)
spirits of turpentine, 1 gallon (4 1/2 Litre)

Mix the ashhaltum & boiled linseed oil first in an iron pot, boil slowly until the asphaltum is melted, then take it some distance from the fire, (homer) to cool a little, and add the turpentine (avoiding ignition) before it cools too much, and it is finished. It might look quite brown at first but it will darken with age.

The amount shown above would probably do 100 planes so just use proportions of it to make a smaller amount.

There are more links about japaning on my blog. Here is a link to it
http://lordnibbo.wordpress.com/2007/05/ ... -japaning/

 

[bugbear]

Mix the ashhaltum & boiled linseed oil first in an iron pot, boil slowly until the asphaltum is melted

Finally a reason to buy the bare cast iron saucepans on offer so cheaply at car boots!

BugBear

 

[graween]

Hi.

Thank's a lot. I dit not see the link for your blog ...

I might give it a try (don't need a gallon of it you're right :lol, it's for a #5 and my #8

Thanks.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

For a reminder here is how it looked when I picked it up at a carboot sale(yard sale) for £5 ($10)

Today it looks like this.....

Here's a few more pics

A little pitting still on the sole but I think I can live with that.

If you would like to see the pics much larger just click HERE

 

[Philly]

Superb job, LN!
You must be very proud,
Philly

 

[Racers]

Hi, m'lord

If the pits go rusty pop some super glue in them it seals them a treat, it worked on my Record 5 1/2 SS after I tried araldite with no luck.


your humble servant, pete