Suitable timber for picture frames

[Martin Brown]

I am about to move and would like some large picture frames and detail trims for my new kitchen. I have seen something I like in "Dreary Home" mag that has American Black walnut.

Is it an endangered species? Expensive? Easy to find someone who will work with it? Clearly I will be putting the work to UKW members to pitch for but I need the wood first? Any thoughts welcome.

Martin

 

[mr]

Had an estimate today for some at £75 ex vat for a 12ft x 8 inch x 2 inch board. Ive had other prices at anywhere between £55 & £65 per cubic foot.
Though finding yards which had it wasnt that easy there seems to have been a run on it of late. Dont know where you are but SL Hardwoods should have it (Croydon) but they seem expensive -(note seem - I cant really tell) and Beach Bros in Exeter also have some currently (£55 per cu ft and up depending on thickness.

Cheers Mike.

 

[LyNx]

I got bloody loads of it in the workshop at the moment, coming out my ears!!

Have you a pic of the frames your talking about??

Andy

 

[Martin Brown]

Er thats a bit quicker that I thought. The interweb is helpful.

Will have to get my head round what I need. I am back in the place after work on Thursday and will PM then. I am really looking for box picture frames i.e. with deep sides.

Still would welcome any other thoughts please.

Martin

 

[Scrit]

Martin

You'll probably find that there are also commercially-available framing sections like the one you asked about, quite possibly veneered MDF rather than solid stock. Black walnut is OK, but not exactly stunning to look at

Scrit

 

[gidon]

Martin
It's not cheap but it's not too expensive either - similiar to Cherry and Maple, more expensive than Oak and Ash as a rough guide. As to availability, it's not difficult to get hold of. And not endangered that I know of.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[beech1948]

I thought that I there were a few options available:
1) Walnut can be a bit dark and featureless as well as beautiful so it can be risky and expensive
2) Frames can be made of anything and decorated with paint, gold leaf, dark woodstain, etc etc or even combinations
3) If painting or applying decoration MDF would be fine as it will be disguised

FWW had an article about 12 months ago on making up a production line for picture frames

regards

 

[tim]

Martin

A lot of merchants are now making it very clear that sapwood is not a defect so you can also end up with boards which have lots of yellow sapwood that you have paid for but will either have to stain or discard.

Cheers

Tim

 

[MikeW]

1) Walnut can be a bit dark and featureless as well as beautiful so it can be risky and expensive
...

It can be dark, even in figured wood...

At least it works with both machines and hand tools really well. Takes detail nicely.

It wouldn't be my first choice in picture frames unless the frames were of a wide width. And I would make a distinction between frames for my own enjoyment and for hire. If for myself, there are many woods which while looking nice, don't compete with the subject.

If for hire, I would use ready-made lengths of picture framing stock unless a truly custom solution was desired.

But Walnut is a good choice if one wants a dark frame. American Black Walnut will lighten a little over time, too.

Take care, Mike

 

[Steve Maskery]

American Black Walnut will lighten a little over time, too.

I made a desk and chair for my wife (but she's never let me plug in the latter - boom-boom) a few years ago. I finished it with Hydrocote, because I was trying to be environmentally friendly, but really it was not a good choice. A few years down the line the walnut is bleached quite pale, especially on the top where it gets a bit of early morning sun. In contrast, the drawer handles, which had a shellac finish, are as warm and vibrant today as the day I polished them.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Scrit]

A lot of merchants are now making it very clear that sapwood is not a defect so you can also end up with boards which have lots of yellow sapwood that you have paid for but will either have to stain or discard.

A while back I talked with the Jophn Boddy rep about this and he said that the US grading rules had been amended to allow a much higher percentage of sapwood, but he also told me that much of the Am. black walnut being imported was steamed to make the colour differences much less obvious. Apparently the sapwood darkens considerably when steamed.

Personally I love burr walnut, but it's fussy to work with in veneer form (you'll almost never see it in solid) and sadly, like all walnut, it tends to sun bleach - look at any original 1930s Art Deco or machine moderne piece and you'll see what I mean. Still if you put up with the waste and the tedium it is lovely.

Scrit

 

[Colin C]

Hi Srit ( not teaching you to suck eggs 8-[ ) but burr walnut is a lot easier to work if it is a little damp ( I use hide glue for most of my veneering)

 

[Scrit]

Hi Scrit (not teaching you to suck eggs 8-[ ) but burr walnut is a lot easier to work if it is a little damp (I use hide glue for most of my veneering)

Good point - burrs can dry out awfully wrinkly, but it was more a reference to the fact that there are always a multitude of defects in it which need to be patched out

Still if you put up with the waste and the tedium it is lovely

Scrit :lol:

 

[Colin C]

I do like working with burrs too but I have been lucky to work with lots of exotic timbers and veneers.
Sory for going a little off topic