Sub tables

[martinka]

I made a new sub table today for the Hegner. The old one I made was a bit thick at 8mm and had also warped slightly where I had cut a slot to get new blades in easily. This time I made it from 4mm and drilled a 3mm hole for the blade instead of a slot. I also made an aluminium extender to move the blade clamp holder at the side of the table, instead of cutting the corner off the sub table. When it was finished and while I was waxing the top, I noticed the surface of the ply was very slightly wavy with the wavelength being about 1" apart. This seems to have turned out to be a good thing as the wood seems to almost float on the table, probably because there are small airgaps underneath. I tried to get a photo to show it but the camera battery died on me. If I can get a photo over the weekend I'll attach it to this post.

I don't know if anyone else has experimented with a sub table but I can't go back to using the standard table. For a start it's much warmer to the touch, but one thing I hate about the aluminium table is that it leaves a silvery mark on the underside of whatever I am cutting, even though I always had the table waxed. The bigger size helps too, even though the one I made today is only 2" wider, it makes a big difference.

 

[nadnerb]

Hi Martin
I would be interested in having a look at your sub table as I have the same problem with the metal table marking the wood
Regards
Brendan

 

[Walney Col]

Whenever I want to avoid small pieces falling through the gap around the blade I generally use a piece of 4mm corrugated plastic cut to the rough shape of the table and taped onto it around the edges. A 3mm hole does for my entry point too and it's super slippery and a delight to use when cutting sharp corners compared to my cast iron table.

 

[scrimper]

I have had a sub table on my Hegner for many years, I would not be without it, for starters you can make it a bit bigger for better support of the work and it also helps having a much smaller blade hole. I deliberately slotted mine with a slot just wide enough to take the blade, the reason being that if doing very delicate cut-outs on a largish work piece it is easier to detach the blade from the bottom clamp put the blade through the small hole in the work then slide it through the slot, it can be difficult trying to thread a blade though a very small hole with a large work piece with the blade still in the bottom clamp.

I used a piece of MDF for my table with a trim around the edge which keeps the table in place, I am not a fan of MDF but for this purpose it's perfect with a lovely flat surface.

Here is a picture of mine, it's not very clear as I found the picture on my PC I could take a better one if anyone is interested.

 

[bodgerbaz]

+1 for some more information about the sub-table, especially a closeup picture or two. I agree about the cold table and possible #silvery' marks so a sub-table seems to be the way to go. Any additional information and pics would be great.

Thanks for the info and pictures scrimper. Nice tidy workshop too.

Barry

 

[gilljc]

If you are using a sub table, will you not lose the benefit of reverse tooth blades?

 

[scrimper]

If you are using a sub table, will you not lose the benefit of reverse tooth blades?

That is a good point and one which concerned me, which is why I made my table using fairly thin MDF. If you make the table from very thick material it may place the work above the reversed teeth at the bottom. The FD ultra reverse blades solve the problem having a few reversed teeth all along the blade but the recent FD blades I bought were not of good quality.

 

[scrimper]

+1 for some more information about the sub-table, especially a closeup picture or two. I agree about the cold table and possible #silvery' marks so a sub-table seems to be the way to go. Any additional information and pics would be great.

Thanks for the info and pictures scrimper. Nice tidy workshop too.

Barry

I will take some pictures of the table and post them later, the bit of the workshop in the picture is my extension workshop where I do my fretwork and designing etc I have a computer section at the other end. There is a doorway past the band saw on the right which leads to my main workshop.

I Think it would be interesting if members posted pictures of their workshops or dens I always find it interesting to see other shops. I would be happy to post some of mine should anyone be interested.

 

[martinka]

If you are using a sub table, will you not lose the benefit of reverse tooth blades?

My new subtable is 4mm and the reverse blades work OK. My old one was 8mm and only a couple of the bottom teeth were doing any work. When i began cutting after fitting the new table yesterday, the work was bouncing up and down for a couple of seconds till I realised what was wrong.

 

[Claymore]

Made a subtable using a A3 plastic cutting mat with a 3mm hole for the blade just held in place with a bulldog clip.... I then polished it with some car interior spray polish and its as slippery as ice but warmer to touch

 

[martinka]

Pics as promised. Not the best looking thing around, but it's intended to be used, not admired. The hole for the blade can be replaced with a slot as with Scrimper's. My original was like that, and it does make the blade easier to change. I find it easier to use two hands to remove and replace the bottom clamp with a 3mm hole, whereas it can be done single handed if you have a slot, though it doubt it makes any difference to the time taken to change a blade. No dimensions are needed, just build it around the table; my table is 12" square simply because that was the only piece of 4mm ply I had.

 

[scrimper]

Here are some pictures of my sub table.

It just fits snugly on the top with no fixings.

 

[bodgerbaz]

WOW. Many thanks for the pictures of the sub-tables guys. It is very much appreciated and I thank you for taking the time to take and post the pictures.

I'm definitely going to make one of those and from the detailed pictures you have both posted I think it should be fairly straight forward.

Thank you both again.

Barry

 

[nadnerb]

I Agree with Barry, a picture certainly paints a thousand words
Regards
Brendan

 

[Dave.G]

Hi Martin, glad to see you use suck rather than blow for the top of your work piece I will do the same when Father Christmas delivers my fretsaw on Thursday. I have suction rigged up for all my electric saws in my garage, I can't understand why the saws come with 'blow' as standard. Happy Christmas to all..... Dave.
Ps that smiley is still waving at me 'will have to tell Charley as I'm sure he's in trouble, and still haven't found the fret saw blade that my wife pinged up in the air! sorry if I drifted of thread Martin