Stuck drain valve

[HawkEye]

Spent the day trying to turn a drain valve on an old copper fortic cylinder.

Stupidly I balded the nib at the end and now anything I use just turns and turns.

I bought a kit from screwfix which allows the removal of threaded screws but I don't seem able to drill the brass, my supposed metal drilling bits just turn and turn against it. I made a small indent before the bit gave way and snapped.

I have to drain this down before I can remove it, there's 2/3s of a cylinder of water sitting in there and it will literally flood the place if I just knock of the valve by force ... HELP ???

 

[finneyb]

Is the drill in reverse?

 

[HawkEye]

No mate ... =|

 

[dj.]

Take the fitting out of the top of the cylinder, insert a hose pipe so it goes down to the bottom of the cylinder & syphon the water out.

Drain offs stick shut 8 times out of 10 in my experience.

Regards.


dj.

 

[RogerS]

Thats why I always remember every year to cycle through all my stopcocks so that they remain free ... :---)

and then remembering to back them a quarter turn from fully on :-"

 

[Graham Orm]

Spent the day trying to turn a drain valve on an old copper fortic cylinder.

Stupidly I balded the nib at the end and now anything I use just turns and turns.

I bought a kit from screwfix which allows the removal of threaded screws but I don't seem able to drill the brass, my supposed metal drilling bits just turn and turn against it. I made a small indent before the bit gave way and snapped.

I have to drain this down before I can remove it, there's 2/3s of a cylinder of water sitting in there and it will literally flood the place if I just knock of the valve by force ... HELP ???

If it's scrap make sure the top open cold storage portion is empty then drill into the very top of the cylinder and syphon with a hose, you may get some spillage but a big towel should cope with it. If it's not scrap you can still do this then solder a copper patch over the hole.

Edit: If it's that tight there's every chance when you do get it to turn it will leave the 'jumper' and washer behind.

 

[Graham Orm]

Solid gold tip: Cold stop taps or any valve that is left in the open position. Open fully to the stop then turn back 1/4 turn to avoid jamming in the open position.

Sorry duplicated Roger's post here.

 

[longinthetooth]

You sharpen twist drill tips differently for brass to get them to bite.

 

[HawkEye]

I went with the hose option and it's draining down, so obvious I didn't think of it .. lol

Next question while we're on the subject is how do I cap the mains supply feeding the cistern. Have a look at the photo.

A membrane is going directly on top of the concrete because the basement is being tanked, so I can't have the pipe sticking up where it is at the moment. I'm assuming I'll need to channel out a hole in the concrete to cap the pipe or will I not? I've not capped pipe work before. I know where the mains stop **** is so no problem turning off supply to the house

See pictures

 

[Graham Orm]

If it's not going to be used again you'd be better finding where the pipe enters the concrete and isolate before if you can. That eliminates the possibility of it leaking beneath without you knowing. Other option, dig a hole the size of a sauce pan around it, cut the pipe below ground level. Clean the pipe thoroughly until you have shiny copper, I use an inch wide strip of emery cloth BEFORE I cut the pipe, very quick. (If you cut the pipe first the emery cloth will keep slipping off while you try and clean it).

Either way use a compression stop end http://www.screwfix.com/p/conex-compression-stop-end-dzr-15mm-pack-of-10/35629 and tighten really tight as it will be inacessible later. Make sure it goes onto the pipe fully, try it and mark the pipe with a pencil & take it off and check to satisfy yourself it's gone right on.

 

[Graham Orm]

Don't forget to turn your stop **** back 1/4 turn when leaving it open and weight the fortic in, don't give it away or dump it!

 

[Flynnwood]

On the subject of stop cocks, I would recommend installing one of these inline, just after the stop ****. £7 well spent imo.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-v ... 15mm/11085

 

[longinthetooth]

... use a compression stop end and tighten really tight

The expression really tight is a bit misleading - I've seen overtightened compression fittings where the olive's nearly cut through the pipe! A sense of proportion's wanted!