stripping a ceiling

[disco_monkey79]

Anyone on here a decorator and/or plasterer? Not sure if the following description will make any sense, but here goes.

I've finally removed all the polystyrene ceiling tiles from our living room, and I'm currently steaming off the lining paper that was underneath (and is covered in the adhesive from the tiles).

It's slow and akward, but I am making progress. However, under that paper, there's another layer (yay!) that looks like gloss-painted paper. It's gt a smooth finish, and is ridiculously difficult to get off. Under the small patches that I have managed to remove, is plaster.

I know stripping ceilings is supposed to be difficult (and the lining paper stage was bad enough), but given what a nightmare this bit is being, I wanted to check that I am supposed to be removing it, and that I'm not trying to remove something that is actually part of the ceiling!

Apologies if that is nonsensical, or ridiculous.

 

[marcros]

it isnt the paper covering of plasterboard is it, painted over? The gloss is probably part of the problem, because it will stop steam penetrating the paper.

 

[disco_monkey79]

That's what I was wondering. I might get a plasterer round to see what he/she needs to be removed before it can get skimmed.

Thanks

 

[carlb40]

If it is the paper from the plasterboard. I would leave the adhesive alone, unibond the ceiling and have it skimmed again.

 

[Boxer]

I know more about decorating than woodwork ;-) and it does sound like an old gloss-painted ceiling...... maybe inspired by the anaglypta ones that were popular in the pubs.

Its going to be a pain but the general principle is to break the skin of the old oil based paint in order to let the steam / water to penetrate and do its work.
Therefore if you take a sharp knife (eg snap-off or stanley) and score it all over like a messy noughts and crosses pattern and then get a paint roller soaked in warm water to soak and resoak, and then get the steamer on it ..... should do the trick.

Finish the day with some ibuprofen and a good neck rub.

 

[RogerS]

Forget all that faffing about. Go and buy some more plasterboard and fix it over the existing lot....damn sight easier than trying to scrape off stuff. You're plasterer will be happier as well. Don't forget to check for wires/pipes in the ceiling space !

 

[Lons]

Forget all that faffing about. Go and buy some more plasterboard and fix it over the existing lot....damn sight easier than trying to scrape off stuff. You're plasterer will be happier as well. Don't forget to check for wires/pipes in the ceiling space !

Roger beat me to it! :lol:

Just screw it through the existing ceiling. It will take 2 people to lift 8x4 sheets in place (unless you hire a lifter) and if you use tapered edge dry lining boards you won't even need a plasterer as you can tape and fill the joints easily yourself. Dry lining boards can be sealed and painted without skimming. A easy way of finishing wall to ceiling joints is fit plaster coving which makes a better job anyway.

Benefits of this method are better soundproofing, useful if bedrooms above and increased insulation, great if a bungalow.

cheers

Bob

 

[disco_monkey79]

Interesting idea re new plasterboards. One question though - as the old ceiling covering apparently been skimmed, any thoughts on how to locate the joists, as the old nails/screws are covered (other than jabbing holes in the existing covering).

Thanks all for the replies

 

[carlb40]

You could buy a stud finder. But if you do decide to overboard, then the jabbing hole method works Depending on the age of the house? As it had polystyrene tiles it will be fairly old. So normally the joists run the shortest length of the room. So find the 1st one which will be close to a wall, once found the others will be roughly 16/18 inch on centre

 

[Lons]

Stud finder is the answer but you can often locate the nearest joists to the light fitting if you remove it and use a bit of stiff bent wire then you'll know the joist spacing and can use an awl or small screwdriver to confirm the rest. (Unless the property is so old it's lath and plaster!).
nothing to stop you adding additional screws btw just through into the existing plasterboard. It's surprising how well these hold if you sink just into the paper of the new board and don't overtighten. If you use 25mm for those there is no danger of hitting pipes or cables.

Buy a bag of easifill or jointfiller which can be sanded very easily ready to paint.

Bob

 

[katellwood]

If you haven't got a stud finder and don't want to poke holes through I have used rare earth magnets to locate plasterboard fixings, just a gentle tap to identify the dense areas then hover the magnet over these areas will soon identify the exact location of a plasterboard nail or screw . Never had to do it on a ceiling however have used it on stud walls to locate the timbers when fixing heavy flat screen TV's and large mirrors

You can soon identify the pattern of the studding in the wall/ceiling and work out the joist/stud centres. It will be even more easier if the original ceiling is lath and plaster as there will be a great deal more fixings holding it up

 

[porker]

Great idea about locating the nails with a rare earth magnet. I feel a new home made tool coming on.

Just done a small bedroom by overboarding. It was glossed swirly artex (nice!). Knocked off the high spots of the artex with a scraper, overboarded and taped, skimmed. This took less than half a day and was the easiest way of sorting it out as the bonding is only as good as the weakest part. I would usually unibond (PVA) and skim but with gloss paint it could fail. So I agree with the others above and would overboard if possible. Alternatively you could take the old ceiling down but that is generally messy and is more work.