stringers on the table saw

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

steamboat

Established Member
Joined
22 Oct 2007
Messages
70
Reaction score
0
Location
Neath, South Wales
Hello all please can someone help me before I go mad and give up on cabinet making.
I have a cast iron 10” SIP saw with sliding table, I’ve never been particularly happy with the saw but after a lot of tinkering it works ok though the sliding table is still well out and I have to make a load of test cuts each time to get it square.
I often inlay stringers into my work to add a touch of craftsmanship and individuality but have found cutting the 6mm strips of wood on my table saw very difficult, the stringers are often slightly different along its length and I end up trying to hand plane it to size. The fence if often not parallel to the blade being about 2mm away from the blade the far end so should I:
Give up with the fence and get the Incra fence system, though this seems like overkill, I cant image professionals going to these lengths
Give up with the table saw altogether and get the 10” woodford table saw, what would the advantage be?
Get a thin kerf blade and stabiliser and practice
Or something else
I am sure at some point I can start giving advice rather than asking for it

Thanks in advance
 
Cutting thin strips is far better better on a band saw with a fine blade and a fence. However you can cut the wood by hand, some with a good craftsman's knife (Titan or similar) and a straight edge, or a cutting gauge or even a tenon saw, work well supported. I have a book that shows a jig you can make for planing the strips to precision, if you PM me, I can send details, can't post on forum due to copyright laws...bosshogg :)
Before God we are all equally wise - and equally foolish. A.E. (hammer)
 
Thanks both. Unfortunately I don’t have a band saw and the wood I am using is thicker than veneer (around 3mm), I suppose I could look at getting it from a company but I quite like cutting the wood myself
 
The fence on my table saw is parallel, although when cutting large or heavy stuff, I find the pressure exerted when cutting tends to make it un-parallel.

I got over this by using a lump of wood with a birds mouth notch at one end, this sits on the other side of fence at the far end, and is clamped to table, that keeps it parallel for me.

Hope that helps
 
If your fence is 2mm out I'd say that the saw is not set up properly. 2mm is huge and potentially quite dangerous.
I'm not familiar with the SIP, but I would expect there to be a way to align the blade properly. Either by adjusting the rail on which it rides or by grubscrew adjustments on the saddle.
Then, using a zero-clearance insert, cut the stringing on the outboard side: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lp4ZR5WsL9w

I have all the setup stuff on video, but unfortunately it's not ready for publication yet.

Cheers
Steve
 
I have all the setup stuff on video, but unfortunately it's not ready for publication yet.

Cheers
Steve[/quote]

That would be WE7 then Steve?...
Simon
 
It certainly would, thanks for asking! :)
I have finished filming in my workshop, but I still need to shoot one sequence on location (there's posh). I don't know when I shall be able to do that. I've also got all the Sketchup and Layout stuff to do. Then the authoring. So it's far from being done, but at least I've got the footage done before losing my workshop. I now have to find a new address, but I do hope to have some new titles out for Christmas.
Steve
 
When I mentioned a bandsaw, I had in mind your quip of maybe giving up the cast iron 10" saw with the sliding table and getting the Woodford 10"table saw. In that instance and only in that instance, I referred to the bandsaw with a fine blade and fence set up...without trying too put anyone down or insulting them...It's a bad workman that blames his tools..comes to mind. My earlier offer is still open should you wish to take it up.
Good luck whatever way you go...bosshogg
 
Hi Steamboat!

Nice name! Do you have one? I am going to make a steam launch...like the ones you find on Windermere with H.Poirot and a jug of Pimms onboard!

Anyway....I digress...

If you want to make some cheap stringing and you have some time and some old board stock around...you may find my stringing jig of interest. (Click on the picture to go to the article on my blog)



It's cheap and cheerful but it works.....

DSC_0012.JPG


...is as accurate as you will ever need it and save you another trip to the exotic timber yard which costs a fortune. Not for the stringing but for the other stock you buy! (If you are anything like me!)

Hope this helps get you out of a scrape.... :mrgreen:

(Heading to the coat cupboard now! :oops: )


Jim
 
I can understand where you are coming from with the problems with your 10" SIP saw. I found that I had to reset mine more than I should have.

I have since upgraded to a big ripsaw and a panelsaw.

Others on here have the SIP and seem happy with them, I think Dodge is one, so it may be worth asking him if he has any tips.

I would either buy stringing in or cut it over size and use a jig like Jim has posted.

Tom
 
Have you considered making stringing using a cutting gauge? For small quantities, this can work quite well.
 
Hey thanks everyone, sorry I haven’t commented up until now I have been building a back gate for a neighbour, I am rather pleased with it as it wouldn’t look out of place inside.
Anyway the stringer jig looks like just what I need, thanks bosshogg for the offer I will email you later.
Over the weekend I re did the fence on the table saw so it will hopefully be better and safer
Steve I spoke to you a couple of days ago and am slowly working my way through you first six CD's which are proving very useful.
 
I have the 12" SIP which is an excellent machine and there are quite a few 10" owners who are very happy. I hope that you get your sortrd out soon.

Cheers

Mike
 
SIP saw can be set up fine first adjust the blade to be parallel to the trenches in the table not easy as the arbour assembly position has to be adjusted. Then adjust the fence to the trench. I had trouble with the fence assembly with some loose fixings and had to strip it.Take your time and use accurate measuring equip. and it will turn out well .Then make a sliding rip fence to help keep all in adjustment.
 
Back
Top