Strange plumbing issue

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Oh BU@@ER, After all the work yesterday another discharge overnight. Looks like a pressure regulator will have to be fitted on the incoming mains. I don't know if there is a regulation specifying a maximum supply pressure to which the water supply company should adhere. I also don't know what the maximum inlet pressure the incoming water regulator will cope with.
 
Oh BU@@ER, After all the work yesterday another discharge overnight. Looks like a pressure regulator will have to be fitted on the incoming mains. I don't know if there is a regulation specifying a maximum supply pressure to which the water supply company should adhere. I also don't know what the maximum inlet pressure the incoming water regulator will cope with.
Close the stopcock before going to bed and see what happens, that way your narrowing the issue down to high overnight inlet presure or a fault with your system.
 
Pressure regulator on incoming main set to three bar, pressure regulator on HW tank outlet to tundish set to seven bar, always worked for me with mains pressure systems in France.
 
A long while since I looked but the regulators screwix sell come with a built in gauge, you adjust it in situ to whatever max presure you require, I dont recall them being expensive and hopefully be an easy diy fit.
Good luck,
Steve.
 
I realise you mean well, but I've lost count of the number of visits our plumber has made over the years. He's tested everything, found nothing, so concluded it's a leak.
I am glad that he is not a shipright ! If a system is losing pressure then it has a leak, no need to do any testing at this point because it is obvious you have one. A leak needs to be fixed, just topping up to maintain pressure is not the way to go. Say you need to add 250ml every four weeks, by the end of the year you have lost 3.25 litres somewhere and I would be very worried having seen the longer term consequences of such leaks to a property. Also just topping up without adding inhibitor is going to cause further long term issues with corrosion in the system so if your plumber cannot find the leak then get one who can.
 
Already done so. Problem doesn't occur.
Have you contacted your local water company to see what they say regards there supply pressure ? The fact you don't get the issue when not connected to the mains does hint towards high pressure on the inlet but then your system pressure regulator valve is there to reduce the incoming pressure to an acceptable limit. The spec for the Joule cylinder is 25 Bar, way above what any supply pressure could be so fitting a

Looks like a pressure regulator will have to be fitted on the incoming mains.
would not help. What you might need to do is replace the actual pressure valve on your cylinder which are not that expensive unless there is still detritus in the system preventing the valve from working, ie letting through.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caleffi-Mu...hvtargid=pla-2281435177818&psc=1&gad_source=1

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Checked again last night with inlet to hot water pressure regulator closed and the programmer heating and hot water set off. Still had the discharge from the tundish at 5:20 am. Anyway the engineer is back tomorrow morning. Let's hope he has a light bulb moment if not I'll have to try to find someone who can help.
Martin
 
Checked again last night with inlet to hot water pressure regulator closed and the programmer heating and hot water set off.
So with no external input from the mains then we can assume that the pressure within the tank is at lets say Xc, now the only way that the pressure can now increase to release via the valve into the tundish is by raising the temperature by heating the water which should not happen with no demand from the controller and no immersion. The mystery is where is that heat coming from or is the release valve letting go because of detritus. What you need is to measure the tank pressure at the point it releases. To solve your issues just requires logical thought and basic physic's because we may think of gremlins in the system but I have never seen one yet. Is the water really hot and steaming when it releases into the tundish ? That would show that it is being heated somehow, if it is just hot water then the release is not due to expansion due to heating.

Have you noticed that it only releases once you have stopped using any hot water and then followed by a period of hours before release ?
 
closed and the programmer heating and hot water set off.
I've been looking at various smart heating/thermostat programmers and notice that some of them have inbuilt short night time boiler run cycles, no idea why. I wonder if "off means off" on your system or is something cycling without user input?

Also unrelated, may be helpful though, in the village we want to do an early morning traffic count. I discovered that my phone, if plugged I to its charger, will easily capture a 3 hour video if set to 720 and 30 fps. Maybe more, didn't try. So I can record 4am to 7am and watch it on TV later. Might you be able to point a camera at your boiler and record what is happening in the night?
 
A solution!
A silly mistake, an embarrassed plumber but a solution all the same - we hope. At least this makes sense.

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For some reason - it seemed like a good idea at the time - he connected point A to point B! He was moving the pipes closer to a soil pipe so I could minimise the size of boxing to go around all the pipework. So with the incoming mains water connected to the balanced cold feed the pressure regulator couldn't control the pressure so the boiler and everything was running at 6 bar and late at night when the mains pressure rose high enough the boiler pressure release valve did exactly that. It also explains why there was crud in the regulator i.e. past the filter it being fed up the balanced cold pipe.
I understand what he did but I also remember I've done the "it seemed like a good idea at the time" thing many, many times myself.
 
I would like to express my grateful thanks to all of you who have been just as mystified as me and offered help. Although you are too many to mention individually I will mention @Spectric who has made many suggestions from day one. Thanks mate: I owe you a beer or three.
Martin.
 
For some reason - it seemed like a good idea at the time - he connected point A to point B!
Effectively bypassing the pressure regulator. Making a simple sketch is often a good approach to solving problems as you can just shown a mass of pipework as a basic line diagram, I have got full diagrams of my heating system, both pipework and electrical in case I ever need to get someone else to work on it and won't have to try and explain things as not getting any younger.

The balanced cold, ie at the same pressure as the hot water only needs to be used for things such as a thermostatic shower valves or mixer taps where both hot & cold are mixed to deliver the output. Cisterns can be run direct from the mains, likewise where you have individual hot / cold taps.
 
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