whiskywill
Established Member
Saw this thread too late. You could have put it through my drum sander.
Stopping tearout on oak
- Thread starter morfa
- Start date
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David C
In Memorium
Charles is correct. I don't know why this finishing from the plane perversion continues to be so widespread.
Stanley's instructions for sharpening the 80 blade are quite clear.
Sharp 45 degree edge.
The turning of the hook is where things can go badly wrong.
Burnisher too soft.
Too much force used.
Wrong angle used.
Setting too heavy.
If these things are ok it is a wonderful tool. I cover 112 set up in my "5 Topics" DVD. There are some extra points for the 112!
David Charlesworth
Stanley's instructions for sharpening the 80 blade are quite clear.
Sharp 45 degree edge.
The turning of the hook is where things can go badly wrong.
Burnisher too soft.
Too much force used.
Wrong angle used.
Setting too heavy.
If these things are ok it is a wonderful tool. I cover 112 set up in my "5 Topics" DVD. There are some extra points for the 112!
David Charlesworth
Woodmonkey
Established Member
What is the correct angle David?
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
45 Degrees?
File at 45* for No. 80 cutter. Lee Valley actually has a handy little file holder for this.
Touch higher when burnishing the hook the goal of which is to not make the burr shaped like a crested wave. Under microscopy it would look like a wave JUST BEGINNING to break.
Touch higher when burnishing the hook the goal of which is to not make the burr shaped like a crested wave. Under microscopy it would look like a wave JUST BEGINNING to break.
David C
In Memorium
The blade is sharpened just like a plane blade, but at 45 degrees. I like very slight camber. (Filing might suit rough work, but I am aiming to scrape stuff like burr walnut).
While stroking with the burnisher, it moves from 45 degrees to 75 degrees. This is important as the "bedding" angle of the blade is fixed.
David
While stroking with the burnisher, it moves from 45 degrees to 75 degrees. This is important as the "bedding" angle of the blade is fixed.
David
Paul Chapman
Established Member
Here's a link to a piece I wrote about sharpening a scraper plane blade viewtopic.php?p=296427&highlight=#296427
The only thing I would add is that if you are using a thick blade which doesn't bow, then you need to hone a slight camber on the blade. With a #80 style scraper or the Veritas scraper plane with a thin blade which you can bow by adjusting a screw, you don't need to hone a camber.
Hope this helps.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
The only thing I would add is that if you are using a thick blade which doesn't bow, then you need to hone a slight camber on the blade. With a #80 style scraper or the Veritas scraper plane with a thin blade which you can bow by adjusting a screw, you don't need to hone a camber.
Hope this helps.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
condeesteso
Established Member
The OP now has all the help he needs, but I've very recently had just the same issue on 2 different oak tops. My 080 came to the rescue and even with a lot of faffing I doubt a handplane could have sorted it safely. The worst is when the grain is lying very close to flat, I mean just a few degrees off the surface, and more so because it's harder to read. The 080 is basic and excellent - the instant change of camber and the way you can hear (and feel) what's happening - it sounds different uphill to down and gives you a lot more feedback than a plane. I also think that at this stage you do what you have to do, and if that is abrasives then so be it. On sharpening I have found it's really easy to over-do it with the burnisher and break the edge. Quite a light touch is needed I think, much less than a squared-edge card scraper - you can always add a little but once the edge is broken it's...
condeesto - That and the worktop is now finished, oiled and in use. But yes, the #80 is great. I'd never thought I'd use it really. It was just something that my grandad gave to me (totally unused). I've just got to buy a burnisher now.
whiskeywill - Thanks for the offer. I'm thinking of hosting a UKW South Wales meet next year once the kitchen and my workshop are done. You'll have to come along.
Pete - I've heard the theory about just going straight from planed to finishing. But it's never worked for me, I'm not good enough with the planing. I have a good dust mask and my sander does a good job at catching most of the dust anyway.
whiskeywill - Thanks for the offer. I'm thinking of hosting a UKW South Wales meet next year once the kitchen and my workshop are done. You'll have to come along.
Pete - I've heard the theory about just going straight from planed to finishing. But it's never worked for me, I'm not good enough with the planing. I have a good dust mask and my sander does a good job at catching most of the dust anyway.
whiskywill
Established Member
morfa":26043md6 said:
You would be very welcome. It would be a good reason for me to tidy up my tip/workshop. Good idea for the meet. I'm only about 8 miles away.
bugbear
Established Member
condeesteso":185yfu2o said:
This (long ago) was the key breakthrough tip for me of terms of any kind of scraper prep (handheld or otherwise).
BugBear
