Startrite combination machine

[9fingers]

I quite agree Roy - I've certainly seen this myself. However this contactor (and presumably the thermal trip) is brand new so I wonder if the trip was not fully tightened or something and the voltages measured are capacitively coupled.

We have proper three phase volts on the input to the contactor and 360 ish on the output of the trip. I dont really understand.
I wish it were nearer and I could go and have a look but it is in Truro - 400 miles round trip!!

Too far from you as well :lol:

Bob

 

[Digit]

We're still on steam here!

Roy.

 

[rickus]

Hi Bob. So i disconnected the thermal trip from the contactor leaving the other 2 wires connected, and it made no difference, (click and hum) so i ran up the crosscut, measured 420/440/420v at the input termianls, and then measured the output from the contactor after pressing start and got 360 across all terminals. I checked for resistance from input to output of contactor with the manual push-in thing depressed and got 4 something or others (ohmms?). I did the same witht he thermal switch and got the same (no resistance).
I am tempted to try the old contacor back in - what do you reckon - worth a go i suppose. Interestingly when i went to the machine yesterday and tried to start there was nothing, no hum, and i found one of the wires from thermal switch to selector switch was lose and not connected at all - i then had to look in the manual to see where it should go because it wasnt obvious, This wire was very tight to re-connect (short) so i replaced it with a new longer peice. It then performed as normal (click and hum) so i proceeded to check and test all other wires.

 

[9fingers]

This is very peculiar. The resistance from input to output of the contactor should be zero ohms.
I assume you are measuring from the three inputs to the three terminals where the thermal trip goes? there will be 2-4 other terminals on the contactor body that you don't need to check (yet!)

I suggest you either try the old contactor back again or if you have some terminal strip (also known as chocolate block), try bypassing the contactor and thermal trip completely. This will at least tell us if there is a wiring problem downstream of the contactor or not.

This would only be a test and not a permanent solution.

Cheers

Bob

 

[rickus]

I dont think there is resistance through the contactor - i can measure input terminal 1 with output terminal 1 and it reads .4 which is what i get if i connect the 2 probes together.
i tried the old contactor back and it clicked but didnt hum, until i pressed the moving contact block in a bit further, then it hummed as before. I presume this means that contactor is no good??
So i can just connect up the 3 input wires with the 3 output wires and see if it starts? i am presuming that this wouldnt be controlled by the switch anymore, is that correct? so when i flick on the supply it should run, maybe? do i need the false phase running when i do this (i.e do i need the crosscut running?)

 

[9fingers]

Ah! you said you got 4 ohms earlier! now you are saying 0.4??

I still don't understand how you can get 360 v one side and 420v the other? this cannot be so with 0.4 ohms resistance
so maybe you are not measuring what you think you are measuring ?

Can you take some photos of the contactor and either post here if you know how or mail them to me [email protected] please

The old contactor does sound suspect.

Yes connect the 3 inputs to the three output, switch on the converter and try with and without the cross cut running.

cheers

Bob

 

[rickus]

sorry i thought i put a . before the 4 -
I got the 360v between L1/L2/ etc on the bottom of the contactor where the wires go off to the selector switch. However i really dont like doing it as the thing is humming, and the panel is a bit wobbly, and i want to turn off as soon as i can. It takes a second or 2 for the digital reader to stabilise. and i'm a but scared of electricity!!
The wires to the contactor and from the thermal switch have open-ended spanner-type connectors - i dont really want to cut these off so i can connect them up in a terminal block - is there another way? i suppose i could join them with little nuts/bolts!!
will take a few pictures now but dont think i will be doing anymoire today as its baltic cold here, especially in the workshop!!

 

[9fingers]

You are doing pretty well for one who is scared of electricity!

Yes connecting with small bolts should be fine - wrap at least two of the three with tape to be safer

Quite cold here today as I installed a new contactor on planer for a local wood worker. All the holes in different places from the old one and wires too short to reach some of the terminals so a simple job took about 3 hours to do it tidily. Needed about 3 cups of tea to keep me thawed out!

Cheers

Bob

 

[rickus]

ok, just connected it up without the contactor - so just the 3 main power jobbies to the 3 outputs from the thermal switch. I left the other wires that go to and from the contactor in place. It just hums as before.
Am just sendning some pics to your email adress - these are with the old contactor connected, and before i bypassed it.

 

[illumaphonium]

Did you ever get this sorted? It sounds exactly what I have going on with my Super 310 machine.....