Startrite 352 - lower wheel adjust

[condeesteso]

Could anyone advise me re adjustment of lower wheel alignment on a green (Gillingham) 352?
Basically, what is the quickest way in to the adjust bolts to re-align lower wheel? I have a pdf manual but the exploded diagram doesn't make it clear to me how to get to the adjustment bolts best.
Also, the lever to rear of lower shaft (with cam on it) - what does it actually do as again the manual does not mention at all - I'm concerned it may be affecting the shaft alignment - but I definitely need to tweak the lower wheel.
Any help appreciated, many thanks

 

[Lons]

I've got one Douglas but I thought the lower wheel was fixed and only the top one adjustable. I'll watch this thread with interest.
I think my machine is around 17 to 20 years old.
Bob

 

[Harbo]

According to the manual alignment is carried out on the top wheel only and that's all I've ever used.
The cam lever is for tensioning the drive belt - generally used when changing speeds.

Rod

 

[condeesteso]

Interesting, maybe why it isn't mentioned in the manual. But the lower wheel does have 4 alignment bolts.
My problem is that on working tension, between mid/high with a 3/4 fastcut blade - it will ride central on lower wheel when quite forward on top wheel. Adjusting to move the top position back only moves lower further back. So I assume I need to angle top edge of lower wheel back (into machine) a tads.
I need to do some deep ripping (9" oak) and as it is there would be a v small amount of twist along cutting length due to wheel camber, also aligning blade true to fence is challenging. I may take lower wheel off and have a look behind, although the pully will be in the way I expect. Alternative seems to be removal of various steel cabinet panels in dust extract area. Mine's 20-odd years old also - brilliant machine but mine needs a tune.

here's the manual diagram: (I have a pdf manual if anyone needs it)

 

[Alexam]

Hi Douglas,
You don't need to worry about co-planer as it's only the top wheel that you should concentrate on. The lowest part of the blade teeth gullet should be in the centre of the upper wheel. Habve a look at this video by Alex Snodgrass from Carter. It really works.

When I had my first bandsaw I spent hours trying to fathom out how to shim the lower wheel, but then found it's not necessary.
Let me know how you get on after following this method https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

Alex

PS. IT also helps if you have good blades. Try Tuffsaw blades if you haven't done so. They do make a difference.

 

[Baldhead]

You shouldn't need to move the lower wheel, as has already been said you 'track' the blade by moving the upper wheel only, also it makes no difference where the gullet of the blade is on the lower wheel. I recommend Steve Maskerys DVD's, he explains all about setting up a bandsaw from new, well worth the money! (Nice Christams pressie?)

Baldhead

 

[vankou]

I have a later Record Startrite 351S which has a different arrangement (not better) and is only single speed but looking at the diagram I would have said that the bottom wheel can be adjusted via part 104 which is I believe called a pivot block by Startrite.

Of course I could be totally wrong.

 

[condeesteso]

well now... watched the Alex Snodgrass vid, waiting to see him deal with any drift. Sure enough, he skips that bit but it's obvious the fence he has has been adjusted the usual way. So I was cynical but went back to my 352 with gritted teeth - worth noting the 352 has no fence adjustment and no table rotation so to my knowledge the only adjustments for drift are tension; and blade position on top wheel.
Anyway - did all he said - :shock: All very good.
Basically, I have been running the blade a little forward assuming that would help get rid of drift away from fence. With blade much further back I was immediately far closer to no drift and I found tension adjustment alone could correct that. I have been over-tensioning the blades I think. I also run an Inca 260 and on that I'm sure Inca said set the blade so teeth are just over front edge... might go back and play with that some time also.
Thanks for all the help, esp. Alex - I have changed how I approach Bsaw set-up, for ever!!

 

[Alexam]

Sounds good and another convert on his way to nice straight cuts.

 

[user 19915]

Doug have a look at this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

 

[Alexam]

Doug have a look at this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

He's already seen it!

 

[condeesteso]

thanks Mock, indeed, it sorted me out!! And I reckoned I understood bandsaws - must say I'm still not clear about the why... I'll work on that. Just put some lignum guides on my 352 (had the steel block-style guides on and they are quite worn) - I know the point about there being a tiny clearance between guides and blade, but I run these just contacting and they are excellent I think, and must run cool as they do self-lubricate. I've had them on my Inca for a few years and they really don't wear, just seem to glaze and then last for years. I'll see how they do on the 352 but very chuffed with it at the moment (new Fastcut on it also, running mighty fine).

p.s. I had the lignum lying around at it took under half hour to cut, drill and fit. I have seen the roller guide conversion (on here) but my mod was very quick and free... I had roller guides on my previous BS500 and they used to pick up resin-rich dust badly, esp when I was ripping some Southern yellow pine once.

 

[dickm]

Did you make the lignum guides to exactly the pattern of the metal ones?

(I feel a quick project coming on....................)

 

[condeesteso]

I did ****, didn't see any reason not to. Of course I'm not saying this is a must-do mod or the best guide solution (although it could be) but I'm quite certain they are better than my rather tired old steel ones. I have re-flattened the steel ones on a diamond plate before now, but it's telling that they wear noticeably. I'd say for next to nothing it's well worth doing.

 

[paulm]

I did ****, didn't see any reason not to. Of course I'm not saying this is a must-do mod or the best guide solution (although it could be) but I'm quite certain they are better than my rather tired old steel ones. I have re-flattened the steel ones on a diamond plate before now, but it's telling that they wear noticeably. I'd say for next to nothing it's well worth doing.

That's interesting Douglas, the blocks on mine have no visible wear after probably 15 to 20 years of reasonably frequent use. Are your's the proper startrite ones ?

Cheers, Paul

 

[Racers]

My blocks where in good condition when I took them off and fitted bearings.
I found they picked up resin when they where first fitted but seem fine now but I don't cut much pine.

Pete

 

[deema]

Hi Douglas,

I've also been thinking about switching to Lignum for the guides, I'd appreciate knowing how you cut the slot in the blocks. I had been considering making them out of two pieces to create the slot. But if there is a solution for cutting the slot that would be far better.

Thanks

 

[condeesteso]

Paulm - I don't know if they are Startrite ones, so possibly not.
Deema, I don't know about slots at all, mine are dead basic wedges - looked for a pic and found Pete Maddex's from an earlier thread (found it through google, wow, UKW does search well :wink: )
So mine are like this and hence very easy to make:

Those are Pete's before the roller conversion.

If your mounts are the same Deema, I'll make 4 just for fun for you, still have the lignum left... not like I have nothing to do or nowt, fair drowning out there but some lignum guides won't make any difference :lol:

Got some CofL drawer bases to deep rip next so I will see how the whole thing behaves.

 

[busy builder]

I have the newer model 352. I must say I'm not that impressed with the current adjusters for the blade. The bottom allen bolts fill up with sawdust and to adjust you have to dig it out to get the allen key in, they are also quite awkward to adjust, maybe its me but I had to take the whole assembly off and strip it down to get any adjustment out of it as it was very tight/stiff to adjust the mechanism.

The top assembly on mine is also slightly out of level with the drop arm, and no amount of adjustment can straighten it up, a bit like the OP one.

I wondered what is the advantage of the bearing type guides ?