Starter Switch problem

[Karl]

Hi all

I have been having a few problems with the starter switch on my spindle moulder. I first noticed it a few days ago, but today it has really started playing up (to the point where I was convinced the machine was kapput!).

Basically, the machine doesn not always fire up when the start button is pressed. Seems very tempremental, and i'm not sure what solves the problem, but a few whacks on the stop button and then a press of the start button and it (sometimes) fires up.

Any suggestions on what may be the problem? And how to fix it? Loose connection? Faulty starter switch?

Cheers

Karl

 

[jimi43]

Sounds like it's either on its way out or full of crud. Try blowing it out...if that fails it is easy to replace...

Can you post a pic so we can see the type of switch?

You can get them on fleabay...there was a thread about it a few weeks ago. Many suggestions on there.

Jim

 

[Chems]

Is it an NVR Switch Karl like on most machines?

Edit, Just looked at your Kitchen Makeover and can see the switch, its like a part of the machine. Thats a bummer, still might be easy to replace it with a normal NVR.

 

[frugal]

The switch on my lathe is the same. Sometimes if I press the start button the lathe only goes when I have my finger on the button. If I press the stop switch in fully and try again it works. I am guessing that is it dust in the switch (despite it is a rubber covered one).

 

[9fingers]

I'm watching this one with interest.

At least 90% of this type of query I get turn out to be dust related.

The worrying point that this thread brings to light is that if a machine starts behaving differently some people seem to not bother to find out why but instead work how to work around the issue but 'hitting it harder' or the equivalent.

A little investigation at an early stage can help prevent extreme frustration later.

When your machines are trying to tell you something - do listen and act.

Bob

 

[frugal]

When your machines are trying to tell you something - do listen and act.

The trouble is that mine are normally saying "Trade me in for a bigger model..." :twisted:

 

[Karl]

Hi guys.

It's definitely NOT dust in the switch. I got the air line out and gave it a good hosing down, and yet the problem persists.

Here's a couple of shots of the switch unit.

All the wiring seems in good nick - no obvious broken/loose connection.

Any suggestions? If it does need replacing, what do I need to look for?

Cheers

Karl

 

[jhwbigley]

Hi guys.

It's definitely NOT dust in the switch. I got the air line out and gave it a good hosing down, and yet the problem persists.

Here's a couple of shots of the switch unit.

All the wiring seems in good nick - no obvious broken/loose connection.

Any suggestions? If it does need replacing, what do I need to look for?

Cheers

Karl

I've got the same switch on my planner thicknesser.


Have you turned it to cut? :lol:

only messing..

I'm sure all the bits are available.

JHB

 

[9fingers]

Read the section on NVR switches in my write up

Have a look at the circuit in figure 9. It is for 3 phase but just imagine L3 is not there and L1 and L2 are live and neutral.

Satisfy yourself that you understand how it works.

If not then find someone locally who can come and have a look.

If you are confident with the following then proceed.

With the power off, check your start button works as a normally open switch and that the stop switch is a normally closed switch - it should measure a short circuit until pressed.
Make sure the rotary switch is working properly
Prepare a short length of insulated wire bared at each end. Turn on the power and connect it momentarily between the two contacts of the start switch.
The contactor should close. If it does and stays closed then the start button is faulty.
Turn off the power and remove/bypass the overload trip, noting where the wires go so you can replace them.

Try starting the motor. If it works then the overload trip has failed. You may be able to buy a new one or it may be cheaper to buy an new contactor with integrated overload trip.


Bob

 

[woodsworth]

Geee i hope it's ok! Sorry Karl, it never acted up before and i'm not just saying that. It's funny i have a Belle 300 water saw and the switch went on it today. I went looking for a new on and it is £85's, i hope you have better luck.

 

[Digit]

Woodsworth, do not buy from machine manufacturers! They buy in from national/international makers, if you can locate a suitable unit from an electrical catalogue you will pay a fraction of that price!
Trust me!

Roy.

 

[woodsworth]

that was the price from the electrical wholesaler, quite shocking isn't it!

 

[Digit]

Bloody Hell! Got its own nuclear power source has it?

Roy.

 

[Karl]

Mark - no worries - it was working perfectly, it's just one of those things.

Bob - excellent - i've just had a good read of your article. I'll go back for another read, then have a look at the tests you've listed.

JHB - I wouldn't do something silly like leave the Isolator "off", would I. Well, Ok, I did it once, when I first got the machine :lol:

Cheers

Karl

 

[woodsworth]

Bloody Hell! Got its own nuclear power source has it?

I thought perhaps it was made of gold! Its to bad i can't just use a 32 amp switch of any kind. It is quite sophisticated though you can dial it from 24 amps to 32 amps.

Karl i'm glad there are no hard feelings. the last thing i would do is sell something that didn't work without stating it didn't work. At least it is just the switch and not the spindle though. That's one thing that is good and tight on that machine and what i appreciated about it, well, and that it worked when you turned it on that was a nice touch.

 

[jimi43]

Try to find out what part of that Roband switch panel is faulty. If it turns out to be the green start switch I may have one somewhere....

Let me know before I start looking and if possible let me know the current rating (amps)

Cheers

Jim

 

[dickm]

Hi guys.

It's definitely NOT dust in the switch. I got the air line out and gave it a good hosing down, and yet the problem persists.

FWIW, there is a school of thought among metalworkers that blowing swarf or dust is not a good idea, as it tends to force the crud into places where it can cause damage.
But others seem to think it's no problem.

 

[9fingers]

Hi guys.

It's definitely NOT dust in the switch. I got the air line out and gave it a good hosing down, and yet the problem persists.

FWIW, there is a school of thought among metalworkers that blowing swarf or dust is not a good idea, as it tends to force the crud into places where it can cause damage.
But others seem to think it's no problem.

Dick,

I think that arises from the possibility of blowing swarf into slideways, felt wipers and feedscrews where it combines with the oil to make a grinding paste.
I tend to blow the worst of the metal swarf away with the blow gun at least 18" away from the machine and use a brush for the rest.

Wood working machines don't tend to have such fine clearances, abrasive dust, oil or precision feedscrews.


Bob

 

[Karl]

Thanks for all your input guys.

By way of a quick update I had a mate round the other day who suggested giving it a good spray of WD40. "Can't hurt" I thought.

It's fired up 50/50 times, so the problem seems to have been "cured". For now.

If it hasn't sorted, i'll go back to Bob's post.

Cheers

Karl