Standard lamp

[Gerwyn]

Hi all
I’m in the process of designing a standard lamp for my self. My lathe turns 900mm so I have to make two pieces and join them which isn’t a problem but how do I drill the hole for the cable?

 

[recipio]

There is a dedicated tool available with a spoon shaped end for drilling. Can't say I've ever used one. I have made a few by routing a channel in two pieces and then glueing them together before turning. The trick is to keep them symmetrical so the hole is centered.

 

[user 35906]

I made one in woodwork class at school in the late sixties and used a long bit in a hand brace, this was about 28 or 30" long with a piece of tube making up the extra height. I was a bit worried at the time but it worked out perfectly. The lamp is still in everyday use.

 

[niall Y]

You will need a long hole borer for your lathe .Record sell one with the other pieces needed for the set up. You will however need a hollow tailstock on your lathe to use the versions that are available now. If you have a hollow headstock, you are out of luck , unless you can reverse the direction of the motor, or improvise a mounting for a hollow tailstock in your tool-rest banjo

 

[Gerwyn]

There is a dedicated tool available with a spoon shaped end for drilling. Can't say I've ever used one. I have made a few by routing a channel in two pieces and then glueing them together before turning. The trick is to keep them symmetrical so the hole is centered.

Ahh I didn’t think about that Thankyou

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You can buy long hole boring bits for turnery (as above) made by Record etc. but I'm making my next one from one of these - FAMAG 8mm Boarding and Plumbing Auger OAL 1000mm C| at Zoro
The drawback of all these bits of course is that they have to be withdrawn every half inch or so.

One of these - Axminster Woodturning Counterbore Drive - 2MT
(yours might be 1MT) allows you to counterbore one end to form a mortice, and allows you to mount the workpiece either way around.

You need to bore the hole half way from each end and hope the holes line up, and you need to do if after basic rounding of the piece (if not before).

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You will need a long hole borer for your lathe .Record sell one with the other pieces needed for the set up. You will however need a hollow tailstock on your lathe to use the versions that are available now. If you have a hollow headstock, you are out of luck , unless you can reverse the direction of the motor, or improvise a mounting for a hollow tailstock in your tool-rest banjo

... if you haven't ...

 

[Gerwyn]

... if you haven't ...

Thanks for this

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you want only one standard lamp it's probably cheaper to buy it than to buy the tools to make it.

 

[Gerwyn]

If you want only one standard lamp it's probably cheaper to buy it than to buy the tools to make it.

Ye but I’m semi retired with to much time and buying the tools is cheaper than a divorce

 

[Hornbeam]

Hi Gerwyn, as has been said there is a specialist long hole boring auger and hollow centre for doing this but also be aware that turning a 900mm long spindle can be quite difficult depending upon the diameter as you can induce whip and chatter if not reasonably experienced, The longer the piece the more issues, No reason why tour lamp post cant be made in more than 2 sections which will make turning and boring easier

 

[Gerwyn]

Hi Gerwyn, as has been said there is a specialist long hole boring auger and hollow centre for doing this but also be aware that turning a 900mm long spindle can be quite difficult depending upon the diameter as you can induce whip and chatter if not reasonably experienced, The longer the piece the more issues, No reason why tour lamp post cant be made in more than 2 sections which will make turning and boring easier

Yes you are right I’m planning on turning it from 70mm at the base to around 35mm at the top so probably 3 sections may be a better route?

 

[Hornbeam]

Assuming that you have some kind of profile being turned, look for the best points in the profile where the joint will be hidden

 

[Phil Pascoe]

^^^ yes. Three is fine. One reason for boring the holes first is you turn the piece around the hole, guaranteeing the holes are dead centre and the sections will line up. A good idea is to thread a piece of cord through them before gluing up to pull the flex through with afterwards. A benefit of making them sectional is that if you're using expensive timbers or even offcuts the top piece(s) can be slightly smaller blanks. If the pieces come out of one long length remember to line the grain up when gluing up.

 

[Pedronicus]

Would this method help?

 

[Gerwyn]

Would this method help?

Yes that’s a good idea my only worry is I’m using hardwood which is a bit tougher to drill?

 

[Henniep]

Which-ever drilling method you use will be a hit and miss affair. I have made many standard lamps over the years and use the split and router method.

 

[Wood&StuffLtd]

Hi all
I’m in the process of designing a standard lamp for my self. My lathe turns 900mm so I have to make two pieces and join them which isn’t a problem but how do I drill the hole for the cable?

 

[Wood&StuffLtd]

Not sure if I have done this correctly. The photos are of the Axminster wood boring kit. The (over expensive) drill bit which is too flexible and bent when it hit a knot and came out of the side when drilling. You will only get about a 640mm deep hole as the length of the tail stock and the handle takes up the remaining length. The Zoro bit of not as long as the Axminster but a lot cheaper. An alternative if to use an 8mm dia masonry bit but it will need a bit of sharpening. Yes it would be cheaper to buy a standard lamp but that is not really the point. All good fun! Happy New Year.

 

[Gerwyn]

Not sure if I have done this correctly. The photos are of the Axminster wood boring kit. The (over expensive) drill bit which is too flexible and bent when it hit a knot and came out of the side when drilling. You will only get about a 640mm deep hole as the length of the tail stock and the handle takes up the remaining length. The Zoro bit of not as long as the Axminster but a lot cheaper. An alternative if to use an 8mm dia masonry bit but it will need a bit of sharpening. Yes it would be cheaper to buy a standard lamp but that is not really the point. All good fun! Happy New Year.

Thankyou for this advice. Happy new year