Spraying again .

[JFC]

\/ I think at last im getting the hang of it , thanks for all the help

 

[Scrit]

Yippeee!!! ccasion5:

 

[Colin C]

I think I will have to give it a try again, well now I know were I might have been going wrong

 

[JFC]

Colin , i found the MDF primer and acrylic gloss covered really well . I still need to play with the mixtures to get it down to a fine art but its the best results i've had as yet . Its not a super smooth finish like a laminate but nothing a bit of rubbing compound wont sort out .
Does anyone ever get a laminate finish from a spray gun ?

 

[Colin C]

Thanks JFC
I am thinking of offering to make a kitchen at the moment as well so being able to srapy it myself would a big help, it needs to be white and simple ( fitted a few but not made one yet ).
There is a first for every thing 8-[
Ps I might also with 2 built in units to make to, cross fingers

 

[Colin C]

JFC
What spray gun are you using?

 

[Scrit]

Does anyone ever get a laminate finish from a spray gun ?

It takes a bit more work - sealer, then two coats of high solids undercoat, rub-out to 320 grit, then 2 or 3 colour coats. Then when it's all dry denib with a grey cloth and finally buff with Farecla and a body buffer......

Scrit

 

[JFC]

Ive used a cutting compound and mer polish before but it was lots of work ! It did give a glass finish but took too many hours .
Ill have to look up the products Scrit described .

 

[engineer one]

kind of off topic, but.
just got the latest available issue of woodworkers journal from the states
and they answered a question about gluing mdf. the suggested titebond
moulding and trim glue because it is designed not to be sucked in by
the end so much.

anyone used it? does it work better??

jason, to get the shiny finish it is worth thinking about a couple of coats
of acrylic varnish and then buff that with a cutting compound.

paul :wink:

 

[Scrit]

I've used a cutting compound and mer polish before but it was lots of work ! It did give a glass finish but took too many hours .
I'll have to look up the products Scrit described .

What I was describing was a gloss finish, not a high gloss ("glass") finish. The "wet" or "glass" look takes much more prep work at the undercoat stage, but thereafter it's mainly a combination of spray gun and buffer/micro abrasives. And in any case it marks so easily that it's a nightmare to keep looking good .

Farecla do a number of good rectification compounds - G3 will take-out P1500 grit swirls, G6 does the same on 2-packs then G10 then gives you the ultra glassy finish. 3M makes a similar range (for example Imperial Ultrafinishing will remove 1500/2000 grit swirls on acrylics) as well as a good range of micro abrasives. All this stuff needs a body buffer and foam mop head to apply.

As a point of interest I've found that buffing-out Danish oil, then waxing (Black Bison) and polishing with a sheepskin bonnet gives a very nice level of sheen for relatively little work

Scrit

 

[JFC]

Thanks for the tips Ive loads to go on now and wont need to ask anything for at least a few hours :lol:
Colin im using a Clarke air HVLP AP16GF .

 

[JFC]

Ok now im a pro sprayer ( been doing it for years me ) :lol: Ive sorta talked myself into spraying the arched dresser ive just made . I think ive got everything right , the paint is going on great and no runs :shock:
So just one more question then ill stop I seem to be getting the best coverage by holding the gun around 200mm away but im only covering around a 30 to 40 mm area . Im just happy its going on in one coat and not twenty but is the 30 to 40 mm cover normal or should i be covering more ?
By the time id finished the first coat on the dresser it was dry enough for another :shock: I thought id best leave it for the night to cure and give it a good few coats in the morning before i go out to site . I cant believe how quick it is to spray something that would take half a day to paint !