Split chucking recess

[bobblezard]

I've found some posts about the benefits of spigots over tenons but have been using tenons on larger bowls for now. Despite getting the hang of this gradually, I underestimated the strength and integrity of a piece of ash, a 12" x 4" bowl, and the chucking recess split midway through hollowing the interior.

Any ideas? I could try and reverse chuck it, turn off the tenon and glue on another piece to turn a foot and spigot. There are also some posts about glue chucks but does anyone have experience hollowing a bowl like this held by a glue line?

Thanks, Bob

 

[stevenw1963]

I've used hot glue to hold many a piece & it does work - just be careful & keep the lathe at a slowish speed.

 

[jumps]

I'm a little confused Bob - you reference both chucking recesses and tenons, talk about a split recess and go on to talk about turning off a tenon before glueing on effectively a new one.

?

it's easy to missjudge the strength of the final recess after the outside is finished, it's also easy to apply a little too much tension from the chuck jaws on larger pieces (just a little more to make sure it's held tight....) and it can hapen with both coarse grains like ash, oak and fine grained hardwoods.

how to go forward will depend on what you have left, and where you want to take it, but I agree with the general observation made above that 'glue chucks' can be extremely strong when made properly.

I would have to add that with a 12" x 4" blank your head protection shouldn't be a compromise solution - glue chuck or not.

 

[bobblezard]

Thanks guys, yes I confuse myself with talk of in and outs. It was a recess, but it and the wall were proud of the bottom of the bowl, and on reflection I think it may have split as I turned the outside of the bowl (and the chucking point) one day and reversed it the next so the wood had moved to form an uneven recess?

Anyway I've turned it off and its being glued up on the lathe with the tail stock clamping it. I was hoping to get away with leaving some of the new piece of timber to form the foot as that is how I saw the bowl initially, if the join is ugly I'll turn it all off again. Thanks, think I'm confident to try this and hope the glue holds and yes I do have full face protection always (I've worked in an eye clinic! :shock: )

 

[CHJ]

For recovery purposes Hot melt glue is fine, see See this WIP for a large lump of Ash held that way
One thing that is very important, the glue must be very hot and running very freely, good enough to allow you 10-20 seconds for clamping.

If you want to glue a new piece of wood on permanently and turn that then PVA will be fine as long as the mating surfaces are a good contact and clean. best to wait 24 hrs or more before turning, see latter part of the WIP for another idea on recovering the piece.