Spiral router bits

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stuartpaul

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Could somebody please provide an idiots guide to the use of spiral router bits? (Both up and down)

I tend to be a straightforward two flute kind of guy (keep it clean!) and wonder if I'm missing a trick somewhere?
 
Up spirals are for quicker, better chip clearance and down spirals are best for ensuring a perfectly clean edge when machining veneered board, laminates and formica. I've managed for 30yrs without either, but I do little specialised work.
 
Not much of an answer - more questions really - but I thought a spiral cutter also created less tear out when edge routing.

I'd been having big difficulties edge routing sapele and white oak (the only two hardwoods available nearby), so having read about spiral cutters over straight cutters I splashed out on one. It did seem to create less tear out. However, I did something very stupid involving a climb cutting and a corner, and the bit - solid carbide - shattered and pieces flew everywhere at scarily high speed. Luckily none hit me. I was wearing safety glasses and my resolve to continue doing so was strengthened. I wonder if a straight cutter would be less prone to shattering. And I also wonder if a 1/2" shank solid carbide spiral would have had less tendency to shatter than the 1/4" I'd bought.
 
Thanks Gents,

From what's been said it may not be worth the effort of trying one out. Plus I suspect they're more difficult to sharpen yourself?

I'll carry on as I am for now! :D
 
I use a spiral upcutter on my Woodrat for cutting mortices.
For edges I use the usual flute cutters


Rod
 
Spirals are more efficient at cutting channels but it depends on what you are trying to achieve, down cutters are perfect for channels where the top edges need to be crisp, these must be done in small increments because the shavings will be pushed to the bottom of the channel and back up against the cutter, it then needs to be forced with devastating results, two passes will clear the rubbish. Up cutters will clear the rubbish as you cut but may chip out the edge so use for channels where the edge is not visible. Because of the unique cutting action, the feed rate of your work must be done faster than with ordinary cutters, too slow and it blunts your cutter quicker but again due to the slicing action of the spiral edge these cutters rarely need sharpening but again that is also down to how you look after your cutters, rout dirty gritty wood which has been dumped on the floor of your workshop and the most expensive cutter will suffer.
Because the whole of the spiral is in effect the cutter and usually made from carbide steel, it is more brittle and if used incorrectly will self destruct, any attempt at climb cutting must be made taking the thinnest possible cut and I would hold the work very tightly and feed very slowly.
The other thing about spirals is that because of the cutting action the tendency to vibrate is virtually removed but again that can be relieved on straight cutters by taking thinner cuts.
There are straight cutters available with a shear cut, the TCT blade is set at a slight angle and these will leave a very smooth edge on boards, also the spirals are good for plunge cutting but again straight cutters can be obtained designed for plunging with cutting tips built into the end.
The deciding factor is usually cost.

Andy
 
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