Spindle moulder cutter question

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Roger Sinden":25ha5k14 said:
Scrit":25ha5k14 said:
..............If you want to have a look for tenoning discs then get hold of the Whitehill catalogue (Note: the online catalogue is well out of date ..............
Scrit

I agree, I guess 2001 is a tad out-of-date !

The new one is just a rehash of the old 2001 version, there is very little new items in it :)

Oh, sorry it is a lot different......... the prices have gone up :roll: :D .

p.s. don't forget to check the scribe cutter thicknesses as they vary for different blocks & applications
 
Hi Scrit,

Whitehill now do some alloy tenon discs, as do Axminster (their Whitehills really).

Whitehill sizes from 125mm all the way to 300mm.
 
FelderMan":3r814pl4 said:
Whitehill now do some alloy tenon discs, as do Axminster (their Whitehills really).
Finally! I had suggest to Roger that he ring and ask - I've found thgat if Whitehill do it in a steel block they're generally happy to make the same in ally, too, which makes two 30mm high tenoning discs and spacers potentially useable on a smaller spindle.

Scrit
 
Roger , while i remember i also have a nightmare with chipout like you have shown on the top of the rebate here
P1050452.jpg

The only way i have found to limit this is to run a marking gauge down the timber before i make my cut and hogging most of the timber away on the table saw first . The latter doesn't help if doing a profile cut .
Anyone else got any tips to stop this ?
 
I think someone else mentioned it - do the scribed cuts first then mould the edges

Scrit
 
Sorry i should have moved the arrow , i mean the chipping along the rebate .
 
The only solution I know is to use a rebate block with a scriber. Even then some poor quality stick can still chip out

Scrit
 
O dear then , i have £800 worth of Iroko to rebate this week . Lets hope it does'nt turn into £1000 worth with lots of waste !
 
I've just had a look at my Omas door making set and i have two rebate cutters with scribe cutters , can anyone see a problem with me using these on thier own or do they have to be used as part of the interlocking set ?
DSC00191.jpg
 
The only reason for using them interlocked is the usual one of legality/safety (you knew I'd say that, though) - split they no longer form a limiter block, however, I see no reason why they won't work and the practice was once more widespread.

Scrit
 
JFC":32truvwy said:
Sorry i should have moved the arrow , i mean the chipping along the rebate .

Do you have a rebate block with shear cut, as that helps a lot with the tearout you mention, the only other thing I can suggest is make sure the cutters are as new sharp.

Hope this helps.
 
Just glued up the first one....10/10 for squareness 6/10 for scribed fit of glazing bars...could do better...

The one trick I have yet to learn is how to measure/adjust the amount of scribe that you cut out of the end of the glazing bars. It's been a question of scribe a bit, offer it up, put back in the spindle moulder, reline it up, take a smidgeon more off, offer it up.....must be a quicker/smarter way.
 
Doesn't your carraige have flip stops? Once you've set-up one glazing bar, all the others in a given plane will be the same length

Scrit
 
Scrit":3oowargi said:
Doesn't your carraige have flip stops? Once you've set-up one glazing bar, all the others in a given plane will be the same length

Scrit

Only on the extension piece as far as I can see...and so unless the glazing bars are about 4ft long ....... :?
 
JFC":31ndgfbl said:
Yeah , doesn't your carraige have flip stops :-s
:lol:

See, Jase, another good reason to buy a carraige.......
 

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