Sourcing Bandsaw Blade Stone

[pollys13]

Where can I get a bandsaw blade finishing stone? See attached.
Cheers.

 

[Harbo]

Stick a bit of emery paper on a scrap of wood or use an old oilstone.

Rod

 

[Alexam]

Yes, I use an old oil stone, but a small file will also work. It's only to round the back edges to help the turns. What size blade are yiu using and is it Tuffsaw?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

As above - it's only a bit of abrasive stuck to something. Use a diamond stone, slip stone, bit of wet and dry, anything really.

 

[pollys13]

Yes, I use an old oil stone, but a small file will also work. It's only to round the back edges to help the turns. What size blade are yiu using and is it Tuffsaw?

1" no not Tuffsaw peope have mentioned the Tuffsaw brand but when I replace the blade will go for Bi metal which I don't think they do.
Ps I visit the Wiltshire Wildlife Trust Sites

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Bi metal? why? go for an M42. HSS with 8%cobalt. Make sure the tooth count is right for what you intend to do.

 

[pollys13]

Bi metal? why? go for an M42. HSS with 8%cobalt. Make sure the tooth count is right for what you intend to do.

OK thanks Phil I'll look into it.

 

[pollys13]

Bi metal? why? go for an M42. HSS with 8%cobalt. Make sure the tooth count is right for what you intend to do.

I thought M42 and bi-metal were one of the same thing?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Bi metal blades have two different steel alloys in them, a softer one for the back and a harder one for the teeth. The teeth are often a different colour, as you can see by looking at many hard point saws. Bi metal blades will outlast straight carbon steel, but HSS will outlast it by miles, and it will go through the odd nail or staple with no damage at all. They're a must if you use any recycled wood.

 

[custard]

In the context of bandsaw blades I think of M42 and Bi-Metal as synonymous, maybe I'm wrong (I'm no metallurgist) but I've bought the blades from different sources and they've always performed pretty much the same.

Incidentally, I get my M42/Bi Metal bandsaw blades from Tuff Saws. It's a great option but there's a couple of things to be aware of. The cut isn't the absolute finest, the kerf is a bit thicker, and you'll have to use a narrower blade than usual in order to adequately tension it. If you can live with these issues then in return you'll have a blade that will last way, way longer than you ever believed possible (I seriously think many hobbyist users would never have to change blades again!), and you'll sail through staples in timber with impunity.

I only started to use them when I fitted an aftermarket fence on my bandsaw which made blade changing a bit more of a hassle, I tried a 1/2" M42/BiMetal and now happily use it for everything from ripping 250mm deep Rosewood veneers to curve cutting MDF templates. Even used every day in a commercial workshop I'll only change the blade a couple of times a year, they may cost a lot more initially but in reality they've got to be the cheapest bandsaw blades you can buy.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes, as above ^^^ .
I forgot to say don't look at the manual, see your saw will take a 3/4" (e.g.) blade and order a 3/4" M42 blade - it won't work.

 

[AJB Temple]

Very interesting post Custard. I was wondering if I was the only one who thought the cut was less fine from an M42 or if I was imagining it. I don't buy many blades so it's hard to compare. I have in fact managed to wear out a 3TPI M42 this year on some oak (OK a lot of oak) I had in a barn for 20 years that I decided to resaw into boards. Blade coped really well but was struggling by the end (operating at near the capacity of my saw I suspect). Some of the wood was so hard I was surprised - even slowed down my big circular saw going through it.

 

[pollys13]

OK thanks.