Sourcing a motor - what is this mounting called

[Deadeye]

I'm slowly trying to renovate a pile of bits into a Startrite 175 Tilt Arbor saw.
Most of the problems solved, but it came with a Heath Robinson lash up of a motor (which is also broken).

It is I think quite an early model of TA175 - circular control wheels and motor mounting through the face - as in the picture below (Credit: from Disinterior in another thread; https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/startrite-tilt-arbor-motor.122273/)

What is this mounting called and am I boiling the ocean looking for one?
The saw has no carrier plate (part 94 below), it mounts onto part 70 via a circular plate with an eccentric hole to allow tensioning I think - you can see this on the photo. It also has a rear support strut, again mounted onto the rear of the motor. Might I be better trying to get a bit of plate welded up to carry the motor as in later models? Alternatively I could try a flanged motor and drill new holes, but then there would be no tension adjustment?

Any advice very gratefully received!

 

[Sideways]

The terms you want to look up are " flange" and "face" mount.

I'd want to make a new part 94 and change the mounting scheme to a standard "B3" aka "foot" mount motor.

 

[Distinterior]

I'm slowly trying to renovate a pile of bits into a Startrite 175 Tilt Arbor saw.
Most of the problems solved, but it came with a Heath Robinson lash up of a motor (which is also broken).

It is I think quite an early model of TA175 - circular control wheels and motor mounting through the face - as in the picture below (Credit: from Disinterior in another thread; https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/startrite-tilt-arbor-motor.122273/)


View attachment 186567

What is this mounting called and am I boiling the ocean looking for one?
The saw has no carrier plate (part 94 below), it mounts onto part 70 via a circular plate with an eccentric hole to allow tensioning I think - you can see this on the photo. It also has a rear support strut, again mounted onto the rear of the motor. Might I be better trying to get a bit of plate welded up to carry the motor as in later models? Alternatively I could try a flanged motor and drill new holes, but then there would be no tension adjustment?

Any advice very gratefully received!
View attachment 186568

Hi Deadeye,
It would appear that you have a bit of a Frankenstein saw there??....The 145 & 165 saws, utilise the round face mounting flange with the offset centre, as in your/ my picture.
The 175 & 275 saws have a foot mounted motor and are of a slightly different design, as well as being more powerful.
Your exploded picture shows the 175/275 setup.......

If your saw is definitely a 175 model, then someone has fitted the motor & motor mount from a smaller, less powerful saw.

 

[Deadeye]

The terms you want to look up are " flange" and "face" mount.

I'd want to make a new part 94 and change the mounting scheme to a standard "B3" aka "foot" mount motor.

Thanks! My part 70 has no slots for adjustment so would need to get those cut too (I have no metalworking expertise/facilities). A standard mount is attractive though!

 

[Deadeye]

Hi Deadeye,
It would appear that you have a bit of a Frankenstein saw there??....The 145 & 165 saws, utilise the round face mounting flange with the offset centre, as in your/ my picture.
The 175 & 275 saws have a foot mounted motor and are of a slightly different design, as well as being more powerful.
Your exploded picture shows the 175/275 setup.......

If your saw is definitely a 175 model, then someone has fitted the motor & motor mount from a smaller, less powerful saw.

Definitely!
The motor is not original - it was in a home-made octagonal pine casket and buffered with rags!
I think it's a 175 because it's got the fence that locks both ends and a long set of table extension rails. Could be wrong though!
Where does one fine a face mount like that other than off a 145/165? I'm not confident I'd drill and tap in the right place. Also the rear mount currently goes through where a fan would be on most motors.
And the broken one is 5-wired for control and has the capacitor sitting in a separate box...