Sorby Proedge System

[stuartpaul]

Just come across this system and wondered if anyone here has any experience of it? http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/proedge.htm

I've been thinking of pressing the button on a worksharp but this looks like a very suitable alternative. More expensive but perhaps a bit more versatile?

Any views?

 

[Gary]

Wizer, Blister and a couple of others have them. One here.

 

[Aled Dafis]

Gary

I did quite a bit of research on the ProEdge a couple of weeks ago, and my conclusion was that it's probably the best solution out there for turners, but I couldn't find many people on the web that actually use it for plane and Chisel Irons.

I was also very near to pressing the button on one, but in the end I decided to stay with my Tormek and dry grinder, I prefer a hollow grind on chisels and plane irons as it makes hand honing far quicker. The Tormek also does a great job in honing turning gouges; yes it's true that initial grinding does gouge the wheel quite badly but once you've got your gouges ground properly on it, the wear on the wheels is minimal.

One turning demonstrator I spoke to was completely convinced that the Tormek produces a significantly sharper edge than the ProEdge (he owned both), partly in his opinion to the concave grind, and he felt that the ProEdge belts may be lifting ever so slightly in front of the edge and therefore producing a slight (possibly convex :twisted: ) bevel right at the tip that increased the grind angle further.

Cheers

Aled

P.S. If you're interested in a Worksharp 3000, I have one in mint condition that I no longer use due to going back to honing by hand. P.M. me

 

[Gary]

Aled

Thanks for the offer, but I'll stick with me Tormek and Cruesen. The OP who asked the question may be interested tho. :lol:

 

[ondablade]

I guess it's more a grinding than a sharpening system - the grits are relatively coarse. I'd second the caution about belts lying flat in front of the tool.

 

[Aled Dafis]

Aled

Thanks for the offer, but I'll stick with me Tormek and Cruesen. The OP who asked the question may be interested tho. :lol:

(homer) As you probably guessed, my comment was directed to Stuart, not yourself. Doh!! (homer)

 

[tekno.mage]

I use a Scheppach wet grinder (a Tormek copy) with Tormek jigs but my local turning club has recently purchased a Sorby Proedge system, which it's currently my turn to look after and learn to use! I'll report back on with my findings regarding the two systems once I've had a play with it. I'll even try and sharpen a plane blade on the Proedge if there is a relevant jig in the kit of parts I was given.

 

[Aled Dafis]

I look forward to reading your findings Kym. Unfortunately, the ProEdge will only grind plane/chisel irons, the belts are far too coarse for final honing. The toolrest on the ProEdge will grind your primary bevel to either 20 or 25deg depending on your preference, my preference is 23deg, so that was another reason I didn't go for the ProEdge.

Just out of interest, where is your turning club based? I'm in New Quay, so not that far from Mid Wales.

 

[ondablade]

Just a PS relative to SP's original question. If as seems likely it's a grinder (?) then the Sorby is strictly speaking not equivalent to the Work Sharp - which by using very fine grit papers and switching over to a polishing option hones as well.

One advantage (or disadvantage - depending on a person's view Aled ) of both the WS and the Sorby is that they grind a flat bevel - this being the preferred option for Japanese laminated chisels and the like due to the brittleness of the hard layer at the cutting edge - which hollow grinding leaves unsupported...

 

[tekno.mage]

Just out of interest, where is your turning club based? I'm in New Quay, so not that far from Mid Wales.

We meet in Carno Community Centre on the third Sunday of the month (except Dec & Aug) - Carno is on the A470 between Newtown & Machynlleth.

 

[MickCheese]

I have the worksharp.

It's fantastic for straight square blades. I have not tried the freehand sharpener as I don't turn but it looks easy there is a see through wheel and the blade is presented from below. For plane and chisel blades it produces a very consistent sharp result quickly. The best thing is I no longer delay sharpening until the edge is past its best as it is so quick and easy.

Mick

 

[tekno.mage]

Unfortunately, the ProEdge will only grind plane/chisel irons, the belts are far too coarse for final honing.

Our club ProEdge was supplied with 80 & 120 grit belts (I think), I've not yet looked into what other are available from Sorby, but surely any linishing belts of the right size could be used with the machine - and third party linishing belts come in a huge variety of types and grits.

Your comment regarding the grind angles for plane irons & chisels is more worrying - I must admit the machine is still in it's box as it was passed to me after our meeting on Sunday, and I've not as yet had time to set it up & play around with it (or even read the instructions!).

 

[paulm]

The grinding table on the Edgepro has pre-set angles, but nothing to stop you setting an inbetween angle like 23' if you want to as far as I recall and without venturing out to the workshop in the dark to check !

Belts are available down to 240 grit from the machine retailers and possibly finer from other sources but haven't investigated yet, and this is more than adequate for woodturning for me at least.

For final honing of plane blades or fine chisels I would expect to continue that on other mediums such as water, diamond or ceramic stones or some of the 3M films, but that would be the same whether starting on the Tormek or the Edgepro.

Not sure about the Worksharp as have no experience of it, but wonder if the difference in rotational speed between the inner and outer diameters of the grinding surface may cause problems getting an even bevel on wider blades at least ?

Also thinking that by the time you have switched the honing films on the Worksharp couldn't you have done that step just as quickly/easily on seperate film or ceramic stone etc ?

Cheers, Paul

 

[Anonymous]

One turning demonstrator I spoke to was completely convinced that the Tormek produces a significantly sharper edge than the ProEdge (he owned both), partly in his opinion to the concave grind, and he felt that the ProEdge belts may be lifting ever so slightly in front of the edge and therefore producing a slight (possibly convex :twisted: ) bevel right at the tip that increased the grind angle further.

Don't know if that's the same turner I know but the guy I know disliked the proedge so much that he sold it. All down the the flat(ish) grind not being suited to turning. Bevel down really suits a concave (or is it convex) grind much better than a flat grind.

Dave

 

[matthewwh]

Linishers in general are a good idea for grinding, the belts are cheap and last for ages, don't hold heat, so you get about half the heat build up in the tool and a nice coarse ceramic one will waste steel really quickly.

I use a normal grinder / linisher (about 35 quid) for most grinding work and find it immensely versatile, you have the platen for flat work, a slack section for convex and the face of the wheel for concave.

I'm still struggling with the concept of powered honing though. If you are using the right kit you need to move the steel a matter of inches over the abrasive, where is the benefit in powering the operation?

 

[TobyB]

I am another very happy owner of a proedge - really like the flat grind it puts on scrapers and gouges - use alongside scary-sharp for finishing plane irons, chisels, etc. Easy, quick, reproducible and clean ...

At Harrogate show last week they had demo's of new diamond (or some other) belts in 600 and 1000 grit - for sharpening/honing without loosing steel - don't know if they'll be any good but they said they'd be available in a few weeks time ...

 

[ondablade]

It sounds like the requirements for sharpening turning tools are not quite the same as in the case of chisels and planes Paul, and in the case of turning that there's maybe some personal preferences involved too.

To float a few more specific questions about requirements in a tool like the Pro-Edge.

What apart from the availability of some fixtures to suit makes it different to a normal industrial linisher, or a belt sander for that matter? I'm thinking belt speed, flatness of the platen and other specific technical requirements.

The reason I ask is because there's one heck of a number of linishers offered by specialist suppliers out there, and stuff sold by brands as woodworking specific can often be expensive and lower end in terms of spec if not quality.

I'm wondering too if a belt sander (e.g. the square blue Bosch model http://www.axminster.co.uk/bosch-bosch- ... prod22155/) might not be a basis for a perfectly good grinding station for many of us? It seems to run very similar belt speeds to a linisher, but could it be that linishers use specialised belts/abrasives not available in sander sizes?

Another thought. I seem to recall you can buy a wet linisher....