I was curious whether you meant a soft-wax finish or a soft wax finish. I see it's the latter and that is one of the best reasons to make up your own version of commercial finishes IMO. That and the saving in dosh needless to say
Recipes vary all over the shop for this kind of thing, some using exotics and now-obsolete/hard-to-obtain harder ingredients, but just the carnauba is usually enough and was the choice for commercial waxes until fairly recently. You can add a little carnauba to take a plain beeswax polish up one notch in hardness to the level where it won't easily fingerprint, to a blend much heavier in harder wax(es) for a really tough polish that'll take more handling before wearing through and better resist dust damage.
Here are a few formulas that I've read just recently.
Bull wax
Mix something like 2-3 parts of beeswax, 1 part of carnuaba and 1 part of candelilla wax in the double boiler.
Remove from heat, stir in turpentine - about three times as much as there is wax.
Shiny, but hard work. [might be best retained for where power buffing will be used]
Cream polish
Melt together:
12 parts carnauba wax
7 parts Japan wax
3 parts paraffin wax
(a good beeswax can be substituted for the Japan + paraffin wax component)
Dissolve in about the same quantity of turpentine to form paste. Stir well and add in a little ammonia.
Glossy wax polish
Melt 3 parts beeswax with 1 part carnauba wax.
Remove from heat, stir in 3 parts of turpentine.
About consistency, I presume you know this already but any formula for paste wax can be weighted towards the spirits or turpentine to make it softer at room temperature. Although I think many prefer something stiffer than this these days a number of old guides give a recommendation for the consistency when cold to be "that of butter in the summertime".
In case you're interested you can also colour any wax polish with the addition of dry pigment powders, or more commonly these days, a little oil paint. You don't need much. The standard earth colours are all potentially useful for a variety of natural wood shades and for ageing effects, you could consider a basic list to be Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber, Burnt Umber and Van Dyke Brown. For anything paler than Raw Sienna would be useful on just the uncoloured wax will suffice.