Interested to know if anyone has pursued this route and used soda blasting for paint removal, wood and metal ? I have done some research and looks a viable option, its less abrasive, doesnt profile. I am thinking about external and internal window frames, removing rust from planes etc. Any members that can share the good, the bad and the ugly?
Soda Blasting
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Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
Many years ago I did soda blasting at Rosyth dockyard when they did the rebuild of the jubilee and the bakerloo line's carriages. Had to wear a special suit still got soaked, had a very nippy undercarriage for a while and was constantly covered in a fine gritty feeling no matter how much i showered. Still it was better than the previous portion of the stripped down process which was getting rid of red lead
Oh the process makes a huge bloody mess as well
Oh the process makes a huge bloody mess as well
I have done it in my blasting cabinet (the bicarbonate is very cheap, even food grade) for rust removal on tools. While I found it very effective it was a hassle compared to using the glass bead I normally run as the slightest bit of moisture caused it to clump and as such wouldn't feed through the gun effectively. Industrial sized kit has much bigger hoses so I doubt this is an issue but something to be aware of if doing it with small scale kit.
minilathe22
Established Member
I think it is normally used when a glass bead type ("sand blasting") is too aggressive, eg for aluminium parts. I have tried it on carburetor components and they were transformed, you would have through they were brand new. I would imagine thick layers of paint would take a long time to remove with soda blasting. However this was a professional service I paid for, I do not know how easy it is to setup DIY.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
The aerospace plant I worked in sent parts out for processing. There were times they didn't paint them correctly. We sent them back and the paint was removed with plastic bead. It didn't damage the metal including the TiCad plating. It might be the compromise between Aluminium Oxide and Soda blasting in a cabinet. I wouldn't use it in the open like on the OPs windows though.
Walnut shell might work too.
Pete
Walnut shell might work too.
Pete
niemeyjt
Established Member
I understood soda blasting works differently to glass/sand/grit blasting. With the latter it is just the impact removing the paint/rust etc.
However, soda does what it does in your cakes - it breaks down to release CO2. The impact of the soda on the target causes this sort of mini-explosion as the CO2 is released which provides the energy to strip the paint. Therefore it is a single-use medium.
Have a look at the Youtube demo from a vendor:
However, soda does what it does in your cakes - it breaks down to release CO2. The impact of the soda on the target causes this sort of mini-explosion as the CO2 is released which provides the energy to strip the paint. Therefore it is a single-use medium.
Have a look at the Youtube demo from a vendor:
While you are correct it is generally a single use media (most are to be honest, or at least they are never as good the second time around), it does not explode and release CO2, the release of CO2 is a chemical reaction, not a physical one.
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Hi,
My wife bought me a soda blaster years ago as a present then I bought a 3hp "V" twin compressor to power it; it proved virtually a waste of time. I used hard medium because I was blasting parts from my Lorch lathe. I did the blasting on our driveway and it was an horrible experience which seemed to take forever. The area blasted was very clean indeed but it was incredibly slow going and I'm sure the compressor could be heard over in Hull. The compressor couldn't maintain sufficient pressure for blasting because blasting is air hungry hence it was running flat out all the time I was blasting. I wore safety protection including ear defenders to reduce the racket made by the compressor; as Droogs has already mentioned it makes a huge mess. This was on our driveway I shudder to think what it would be like in an enclosed space which I'm sure would cause serious health issues. I don't recommend it at all but obviously your choice.
Brand new soda blaster and compressor.
Compressor details.
With blasting completed I couldn't wait to get rid of the blaster and compressor; a lesson well learned never to do this again. With a home set up like my blaster and compressor if you set about blasting window frames internally and externally if you're young expect to be nearer pension age by the time you finish assuming health problems don't get you first. Fortunately I lost little money on the sale of the blaster and compressor.
Sorry to rain on your parade but I'll never use one of these blasters again.
If your paintwork is in decent condition I recommend using UPOL sanding pads; these are fantastic at quickly removing gloss leaving the surface ready to receive new paint;
https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/prod...abrasives/maximum-finishing-pads#.YCJllGj7SUk
My friend David introduced these pads to me years ago when I accompanied him for the first time to Rufforth Auto Jumble; David had been telling me for ages about Rufforth so I thought I'd give it a try and I'm a regular Rufforth visitor but not for over a year firstly due to bad weather and now Covid. The pads shown at the link cost a great deal more than the rolls we paid for; I think the rolls have about 30 of these pads and if my memory is correct two full rolls only cost £5 for the two which is a genuine bargain; I bought a good stock. I cut these pads into three pieces and they last a long long time right down to the last bit; they don't clog with paint the way sandpaper does and they are very fast working; just a nuisance dust mask is needed in use. I used to get through lots of abrasive paper but these pads are a revelation.
Just rambling on because it's too cold to play out.
Kind regards, Colin.
My wife bought me a soda blaster years ago as a present then I bought a 3hp "V" twin compressor to power it; it proved virtually a waste of time. I used hard medium because I was blasting parts from my Lorch lathe. I did the blasting on our driveway and it was an horrible experience which seemed to take forever. The area blasted was very clean indeed but it was incredibly slow going and I'm sure the compressor could be heard over in Hull. The compressor couldn't maintain sufficient pressure for blasting because blasting is air hungry hence it was running flat out all the time I was blasting. I wore safety protection including ear defenders to reduce the racket made by the compressor; as Droogs has already mentioned it makes a huge mess. This was on our driveway I shudder to think what it would be like in an enclosed space which I'm sure would cause serious health issues. I don't recommend it at all but obviously your choice.
Brand new soda blaster and compressor.
Compressor details.
With blasting completed I couldn't wait to get rid of the blaster and compressor; a lesson well learned never to do this again. With a home set up like my blaster and compressor if you set about blasting window frames internally and externally if you're young expect to be nearer pension age by the time you finish assuming health problems don't get you first. Fortunately I lost little money on the sale of the blaster and compressor.
Sorry to rain on your parade but I'll never use one of these blasters again.
If your paintwork is in decent condition I recommend using UPOL sanding pads; these are fantastic at quickly removing gloss leaving the surface ready to receive new paint;
https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/prod...abrasives/maximum-finishing-pads#.YCJllGj7SUk
My friend David introduced these pads to me years ago when I accompanied him for the first time to Rufforth Auto Jumble; David had been telling me for ages about Rufforth so I thought I'd give it a try and I'm a regular Rufforth visitor but not for over a year firstly due to bad weather and now Covid. The pads shown at the link cost a great deal more than the rolls we paid for; I think the rolls have about 30 of these pads and if my memory is correct two full rolls only cost £5 for the two which is a genuine bargain; I bought a good stock. I cut these pads into three pieces and they last a long long time right down to the last bit; they don't clog with paint the way sandpaper does and they are very fast working; just a nuisance dust mask is needed in use. I used to get through lots of abrasive paper but these pads are a revelation.
Just rambling on because it's too cold to play out.
Kind regards, Colin.
People who know more than me generally say that you'll want (at least) a couple of 3hp 1ph domestic compressors to supply sufficient air for any sort of sensible blasting.
Road compressors are often used by even (borderline) non pro enthusiasts.
Road compressors are often used by even (borderline) non pro enthusiasts.
You're not far wrong there. I run a small blasting cabinet and my 4HP compressor is about the bare minimum for continuous working.
Colin, thank you for sharing your experience in such detail. This is what I love about these forums, its all about experience and helping navigate past mistakes and bad practises, but improving the way and how you can enjoy your hobby or necessary home improvements. I notice that your compressor is 50l, so may have contributed to the short cycles? However, thanks to you I wont be pursuing this route, unless anyone can convince me otherwise. I was originally thinking a minimum spec air compressor of3 HP and 100ltr with 14cfms. I will give those pads a try too. Can I ask what makes these so different from the standard pads from screffix? KR Chris
For anything small and portable that you want to derust, I really don't think you can beat electrolysis for ease (once set up)
I wouldn't recommend the next bit to anyone as it's vicious stuff, but... My tank is generally filled with NaOH as the electrolyte. So takes off a lot of paints etc at the same time.
(And your skin, eyesight, etc if you mess up)
I wouldn't recommend the next bit to anyone as it's vicious stuff, but... My tank is generally filled with NaOH as the electrolyte. So takes off a lot of paints etc at the same time.
(And your skin, eyesight, etc if you mess up)
Hi,
I too enjoy forums Chris learning a lot from those more knowledgeable than me but I also like to add a bit back whenever possible.
There are always more ways than one to do a job so I only post what I know works or doesn't work for me. The sheer noise of the compressor was enough to put me off; later after selling the noisy compressor and blaster I bought an Hydrovane compressor which was truly wonderful it being so quiet I could work next to it all day long but Hydrovane's are expensive meant for industry; I sold the Hydrovane after completing my last big job using an air chisel to clear mortar before repointing and the Hydrovane didn't have a receiver but it sure put out lots of constant pressure; the downside of using one of these is the wet air it puts out.
I can only state the UPOL abrasive pads are top class because these are the only pads I've ever used so am unable to compare with other brands; I bought a good stock of UPOL pads and they don't half last; I'm sure Screwfix abrasive pads will give similar performance. It's amazing comparing these abrasive pads to abrasive paper; the pads quickly remove gloss and are a great deal easier to use on assorted profiles.
It's worth bearing in mind dust gets inside watches so what would blasting do regarding lungs even with protection worn; I'm glad I don't make a living at blasting but then I worked down a deep coal mine and am still here..
Kind regards, Colin.
I too enjoy forums Chris learning a lot from those more knowledgeable than me but I also like to add a bit back whenever possible.
There are always more ways than one to do a job so I only post what I know works or doesn't work for me. The sheer noise of the compressor was enough to put me off; later after selling the noisy compressor and blaster I bought an Hydrovane compressor which was truly wonderful it being so quiet I could work next to it all day long but Hydrovane's are expensive meant for industry; I sold the Hydrovane after completing my last big job using an air chisel to clear mortar before repointing and the Hydrovane didn't have a receiver but it sure put out lots of constant pressure; the downside of using one of these is the wet air it puts out.
I can only state the UPOL abrasive pads are top class because these are the only pads I've ever used so am unable to compare with other brands; I bought a good stock of UPOL pads and they don't half last; I'm sure Screwfix abrasive pads will give similar performance. It's amazing comparing these abrasive pads to abrasive paper; the pads quickly remove gloss and are a great deal easier to use on assorted profiles.
It's worth bearing in mind dust gets inside watches so what would blasting do regarding lungs even with protection worn; I'm glad I don't make a living at blasting but then I worked down a deep coal mine and am still here..
Kind regards, Colin.
Yes, I will be doing this with some old rusty tools that i would like to renovate. But I will need to research further about soda blasting. I can see a few applications where I would use it for. But always good to heed advice and experience from others!
Ollie78
Established Member
I think for paint removal, the Bahco carbide scraper is king.
For super delicate stuff I have seen peel away used very successfully without damage. You put a paste on, then some tape over it then leave it overnight. Peel the lot off in one go the next day. Not particularly cheap though.
Ollie
For super delicate stuff I have seen peel away used very successfully without damage. You put a paste on, then some tape over it then leave it overnight. Peel the lot off in one go the next day. Not particularly cheap though.
Ollie
Woodywright
Member
I had the same experience as R Retired above. Internet information seemed to suggest soda blasting would be ideal for stripping antique furniture particularly in hard to get areas. I had the same setup. It took ages to get the pressures and mix right. clogging was a constant issue. The mess was unbelievable. The noise was totally unacceptable in a residential neighbourhood. The costs were unrealistic and the end result was only fair. However I have seen this used on a big compressor on fire damaged building and the result was very good. Ona small scale forget it. I sold my setup after 2 uses.
as a matter of interest, what was the set up? It seems quite a difference to what people are saying here compared to what you see on typically US YouTube videos.(although not confident that these are 100%) The concept sounds compelling, in many ways apart from being more expensive. I am thinking about pain removal from wood, rust removal, and some intricate cleaning with small metal objects.
AlanY
Established Member
I had the same setup asd Retired, above. I only used it once as a soda blaster which was to strip the paint off a vintage slot machine that I was renovating. It was quite effective in removing the old paint and did leave the metal with a lovely key ready for paint. That being said, I will never use soda again. It takes ages, makes a dreadful mess, constantly clogs and, because I used it in the garden, it killed a large area of grass. I had a 2hp 50 litre compressor at the time and it simply was not able to provide sufficient air for soda blasting. One day I will get round to disposing of the blasting kit, as it is just taking up space.
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