Smooth varnish/lacquer finish on spray painted guitar

[moy]

Hi there,

I've been repairing (a hole in the body) and respraying an electric guitar and now I've got to the stage where I need to varnish/lacquer the guitar - which is proving a bit trickier than I'd hoped for!

I have painted a guitar before, which was red/white/blue. After painting, I applied several coats of Plastikote clear acrylic (matt) spray to the body, which seemed to do the job really well. But the finish on this guitar doesn't appear as smooth and there seems to be a bit of an 'orange peel' effect on it. This guitar is a matt black finish (Halfords spray paint) which I guess is a lot less forgiving and shows up any blemishes a lot more. As well as the Plastikote, another varnish I have is a can of Dulux clear matt varnish spray. This seemed to leave more of a speckled finish.

From what I've read the trick to get rid of this is after applying the lacquer/varnish, sand the body with wet & dry paper and then use steel wool to smooth it out. And repeat a few times. I've done this with 400 grit wet & dry paper, then wiped down/dried the body and then went over it with some fine steel wool. The finish does feel lovely and smooth but it does have lots of small scratches on the body (image attached). I'm going to buy some 0000 steel wool from town just incase what I have is a little too heavy but I'm not sure if I'll end up with the same result?

The scratches do look worse in the attached image, the spot light really emphasises them. In reality you do have to have it in your hands to see the find marks.

I'm not apposed to sanding down the finish and applying another coat of matt black paint and varnishing again ...but I've already done this! And I'm a bit concerned I'll end up with the same result and it'll be a never ending circle and I'll never get it finished!

I'd really appreciate some help on this if anyone can and I'll get back to you with any extra information you need.

Thanks in advance,
Steve

 

[MIGNAL]

Wirewool won't do it. Even 0000 leaves visible scratches. A Black Gloss finish is the best finish you could possibly choose if you wanted to highlight scratches and surface imperfections! It's nasty!
The trick (if there is a trick) is to make sure you have enough clear finish on so that you can go through all the grits - you probably need to go to 2000G and finish off with a polishing solution such as Liberon burnishing cream. I don't spray but I do brush on coats and when I have my final clear coat on I might start with something around 600G - used with water - carefully because even 600G can cut through to the underlying surface. Then it's 800, 1,000, 1500 and 2,000 finishing off with the polishing cream. Some will go to a buffer. . . but I don't have one.

 

[Chrispy]

If you want a matt finish you will need to either finish straight from the spray gun or matt the surface by abrading as you are doing. Generaly a thicker coat will give a glossier finish so use thin coats for matt and let it cure well.

 

[moy]

Thanks guys. Sounds like there nothing wrong with just leave the matt paint finish on and not varnishing/lacquering at all?

I applied another coat of varnish spray over the finish in the picture I attached - which did get rid of the scratches so I start again. But I took another picture, which will show you the finish the Dulux clear matt spray leaves on the finish - lots of spots!

Crazily I can't seem to get anything higher than 400 grit wet & dry in Newcastle, total lack of DIY shows - no idea where they've all gone! But seeing as I've varnished it again I may as well buy some different variations of wet and dry paper online and give it ago sanding through 600 > 800 > 100 > 1500 > 2000.

Failing that.... I best buy another can of matt black spray paint, redo the paint job and leave it alone?

 

[Chrispy]

Looks like poor atomization of the fluid lacquer, have you tried warming the can up in a bucket of hot water before you start and then give it a ready good shaking this should thin the lacquer a bit and help it to both atomize and also flow out a bit before it dries.
Not an easy job with just a spray can!

 

[moy]

I normally shake the can for 2-3 minutes before spraying. I've not tried putting the can in a bucket of hot water, I'll give that ago - how long should I leave it in the water for?

I can't believe how difficult its turned out to be to get a selection of higher grit wet and dry paper. And because there isn't any 'mix' packs, to buy each grit in a pack could turn out to be costly for what its for - and mightn't give the desired look. If I can't get sheets of wet and dry individually I think I'd be best of going at it with what I have until its smooth, then just respraying it?

A quick question. What would happen if I just sanding it with 600, then 1500 - I know its a jump and would take much longer but would it still leave the marks. Or are all the other grits purely there as it would take forever otherwise?

Thanks again!

 

[mailee]

That is your main problem Moy the spray can. you will never get a good finish from the can and there is not a lot you can do if your after a matt finish. as has been stated a matt finish needs to be from the 'gun'. if it was a gloss finish then yes you can apply it from a can and after putting enough coats on wet flat it back and polish it up but this gives a high gloss. Only sure fire way of achieving what you wan tis with a spray gun and a matt lacquer.

 

[moy]

Yeah I've heard its not the ideal way to do these things, though the finish with the can is pretty smooth - or at least it was until I messed up the lacquer!

If I used matt black enamel paint (such as the link below), which I gather is more hardwearing, could that be better to use if I wasn't to lacquer the finish?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190890682188? ... 1497.l2649

 

[mailee]

I can't comment on the matt black enamel as I have never used it. I would think you would be facing the same problem as it is still a spray can. Sorry.

 

[moy]

Yeah I could imagine I'd face the same difficulties - but like I say I did manage to get a decent finish out the can, paint-wise - I've had to redo it so many times maybe I've just figured out a good speed, distance and all that haha.

Do you imagine the 'finish' would be the same as a black spray paint out the can though. I don't know what 'enamel' is as such, is it a bumpier finish (normally), or should it be just as smooth, just a bit thicker?

 

[mailee]

I should imagine the finish will be the same as any paint from a can. The paint you have pointed out does dry pretty quick in it's brush on form so I would think it will be the same from the can.