Smooth inside bowls

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T.allan

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I've taken to trying a few bowls but I never get the insides very smooth. What's the answer to this? The insides are like tramlines sometimes. and I feel hat my tools are sharp because of the shavings.
 
this is a common problem, the more pratice you get the better you will get, it helps also to use green wood to pratice on as some dry wood can be a pain even to the most experinced turner. I like to use cherry or beech, i dont like wych elm.

try sharpening your gouge just before your final cut, then try to take one pass from rim to base, somtimes a short bevel gouge is needed for the bottom of deep bowls.
somimes i use a negative rake scraper to sort out a difficult wood, and somtimes i start sanding at 80 grit to sort out small ripples.

there is no golden rule, everyone finds what works for them, but i'm sure all will agree about lots of pratice :)
 
T.allan":28h4n1z0 said:
I've taken to trying a few bowls but I never get the insides very smooth. What's the answer to this? The insides are like tramlines sometimes. and I feel hat my tools are sharp because of the shavings.

Hi , If you can as already suggested , Sharpen tool before final cut , I find myself I get a better finish using a pull cut , starting in the middle of the bowl and " IMPORTANT " do the cut in one smooth operation , with fine but firm control over the tool , If you stop and take the tool away then go back and continue you will end up with lines . Hope this helps , its my way of doing it :wink:
 
**** to both of you Blister and Cornicopia
yes I do use a very gouge with the edges ground to cut the insides and I don't do it as you both suggest. I do however sharpen the tool to what i beleive is sharp. Perhaps not as sharp as neccessary I'll have to watch this point. So I will know put your skills to task and do it the way you suggest. I do use green wet wood as I find that this has helped me enormously to develop some already aquired skills. So thanks for the guidance.
 
also while it is possible to get a good fnish straight from the gouge with practice, you shouldnt be afraid or ashamed to resort to sand paper to smooth things out.

i use a foam backed abour with foam backed 2" disks in a rechargeable drill with the lathe running, working up through 80-120-240-320-400 grit then a pad of steel wool to finish (though not the steel woool on oak)
 
In addition to the techniques described above, I was taught recently to use a scraper and about a 20 degree angle to remove the tramlines, followed by sanding with a Sandmaster http://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/acatalog/Sandmaster.html

My second piece of advice is invest on a course, I have been on a couple now and they have improved my turning incredibly

My third piece of advice is join a club if you can, the years of experience at a club is worth more money than I'll ever have

and Finally - Enjoy it, don't worry about the lines, you'll get there eventually.
 
I'm almost embarassed to say that now and now is the operative word, I don't generally have problems with marks on the inside of bowls. I'm not being arrogant or bigheaded - make the passes cutting the inside of the bowl in one sweeping move, it takes some practice - you'll be doing it both L to R along the radius and also sweeping down from the 2 o'clock to the centre. Use a bowl scraper if necessary and then a 50mm foam pad sander in a cordless drill and work down through the grits - 120/240/400 finishing with wire wool and then your desired finish - mine is thinned Cellulose sealer, wire wooled then beeswax....beautifully smooth and tactile.

Hope this inspires you !

Chris.
 
Hello again all
sorry about the delay in replying, been away doing some photographs.
Yes I think no matter how the end product is acheived the quality of the finished item is all important. I will take on board all your information and thank you all for sharing your experiences with the less experienced like myself
 
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