Small Router Plane Project

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rxh

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Here is my latest plane making effort. This little router plane (or Granny's tooth) has a 1/4" wide cutter made of high carbon steel. The other materials are brass, bright mild steel and padauk.
 

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Does look pure quality ! Those screw heads would annoy me not being lined up though.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 
very nice. Have you made it all, or are some parts bought in?

really like the padauk. I do agree about the screws though!
 
When I see "soldiered" screws, I wonder which ones are overtightened and which ones under?

How does one avoid this?

Is it a needless faff?

Best wishes,

David
 
Perhaps it is just because I'm an engineer at heart, but to me a screw should be done up to the desired torque, and the orientation of the slot is unimportant - indeed lining them up is style over substance. Especially so with brass screws which are so easy to shear of by over-tightening.

So to me it is rather nice exactly as it is !
 
It's a faff, you tweak and re-tweak the inside of the screw head, thus allowing it to screw in a tiny bit more until - hey presto.

Also, that's an exceptionally smart looking router.
 
David C":2skz147m said:
When I see "soldiered" screws, I wonder which ones are overtightened and which ones under?

How does one avoid this?

Is it a needless faff?

Best wishes,

David

I seem to remember that somebody had started them at the same orientation on one project so that they should end up at the same torque, and same position. I know that there could be other variables.

It probably is a needless faff, but...
 
It's really a beauty =D>
What you can say more about the cutter? Is it auto-built?

Ciao
Giuliano
 
Thanks guys for all your comments.

ColeyS – Yes, I agree the screw heads would look better lined up but I was afraid of shearing them off if tightened too much and I didn’t want the handles to be loose. Fortunately they won’t show in normal use.

Marcos – I made all parts except for the set screw that holds the cutter tip in place and the brass woodscrews that hold the handles on. Most of the turning was done using a little Hector lathe which is good for making small parts (see photos below). The knurling needed a much bigger lathe. The post is attached to the base plat of the router by a “mortice and tenon” joint, fixed by soldering. The “tenon” was made overlength and then milled down flush with the baseplate. The knob for the depth stop is steel with a brass “tyre” soldered on.

Ac445ab – I made the cutter tip of steel from a broken hole cutter. I annealed it to make it soft enough to saw, drill and file to shape, then hardened it and finally tempered it by heating on a bed of sand.
 

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David C":wdrkukiw said:
When I see "soldiered" screws, I wonder which ones are overtightened and which ones under?

How does one avoid this?

Is it a needless faff?

Best wishes,

David

I've never heard "Soldiered" before - lovely term. Is is your own coinage?

Anyway - I've read that one infill maker (who has gone bust...) used to make screws with double height slotted heads. The screws would be run up to tension, and marked. They would then be removed, and the "upper" slot machined off, and a new slot cut in the remaining head-depth. This new slot was aligned with the mark. Thus, when the custom screw was put in and correctly tightened, the slot lined up.

I wonder why they went bust...

BugBear
 
If you do shallow countersinks you can file most of the head off including the slot.

Its a very nice router.

Pete
 
Top Job. =D>

I was going to ask you about the knurling - fortunately I know someone with a much bigger lathe than I've got. :)

Assuming it is the same brass that I am using (I forget the number) how does it like being knurled? I had a miserable time trying to rivet some the other week. It seemed to work - harden at every hammer blow.
 
Pete Maddex":2wyyajwp said:
If you do shallow countersinks you can file most of the head off including the slot.

Its a very nice router.

Pete
Thats a neat trick !!!!!!! Lovely brass buttons holding together stuff. I might have to borrow that idea. Be a bit like those contrasting wooden miller ? dowels but brass - phwoar :) thats the highlight of my day so far ;)
I've soldiered them before by just removing the screw and redrilling with the same pilot hole- it doesn't take alot to get it to turn less than 180 degrees which you'd need. Window and door hinges are a bit less important cause you only see them when its open but id defo give em a tweak. That router plane oozes class and quality but I think those screws really take the shine off- just my opinion of course, I'd still love to own one :cool:
Coley

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 
Very nice plane and nice work.

Pete beat me to the countersink/filing method.

The brass should be CZ121 "Machining Brass" - contains lead so softer and easier to work?

Rod
 

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