Sliding Table, or EB-3/Incra - and aftermarket fences

[ByronBlack]

I just wanted to garner the thoughts of those with tablesaurs. What is best for cross-cutting?

A sliding table,
Osbourne EB3 or suitable Incra
or Crosscut Sled?

The reason I ask is that I've definitly made up my mind to install a decent tablesaw, but with the various saw options, I can't make up my mind whether a sliding table or decent sled/mitre guage would be better. Basically, the Axi CI with sliding table is too big, so that leaves one of the Kity 419 clones if I wish to go the sliding table route - unless I add an aftermarket one like the Jessem-slide.

After that, it leaves something like the SIP or an Xcaliber with a decent after-market mitre guage and/or sled.

And lastly, what is the general opinion of a decent after-market fence?

TIA for any help.

 

[les chicken]

Byron
Although I have been lurking on the forum. I have not posted for a long time as I have been out of action in the workshop for months, due to a shoulder injury. But hopefully "I am back" in the workshop. Needed to buy a new flue for the hotspot to keep the place warm for the winter months, but I digress.

I have the SIP ci saw and it is excellent for the money. There will be no need to buy an aftermarket fence as it comes with a rock solid and square fence that is easily adjustable. Mine was also supplied with a bolt on short fence for use as a stop for tenon cut shoulders etc.

I did make a sled for wider cross cuts out of 18mm mdf which is OK for my requirements.

The mitre gauge is pretty basic and needs some messing with, but most are.

Yesterday I ordered an EB3 from osborne direct, they are selling them at the moment for $109 plus $53 post and insurance using USPS, a really good price with the exchange rate.

As the blade with the guard removed winds below table height it is also a good flat assembly or work bench area.

I am really pleased with my purchase and for the money I think you would also be.

Les

 

[motownmartin]

Hi Byron

As you may or may not know. I bought the Axminster cat iron jobbie with the sliding table and I thought it was brill, just the job for cross cutting panels, but the sliding table had to go once I bought a bandsaw, there just wasn't enough room for both. The question now is what do I use when cross cutting panels, if they are only shallow I can use the mitre guage but did not trust it's accuracy, so I bought an Incra 1000, very accurate and glad I got one but limited to a 12" crosscut, with the sliding table I could cut about 30" which you would not get on a sled (probably 20" safely).

So the answer for me was to have the saw on wheels and move it so I could temporarily put on the sliding to cut larger panels which would be once in a blue moon, but I will say that when I get a bigger workshop the sliding table will go back on because it makes a lot of the cutting easier and safer.

Just to say once again that the Incra tools that I have purchased so far are top notch and would reccommend them.

 

[OLD]

Sliding table saws give you cross cut width but they are just so large (kity and jet super are ok) the space required made me reject them i have the SIP and osborne and i am happy. there are lots of ways to adapt the saw for special cuts etc and thats part of the hobby for me however if i was using lots of sheet material then the sliding table would look attractive.
A outfeed table should be your first project i got mine on freecycle.

 

[Waka]

EB 3 and cross cut sled.

 

[Pete Robinson]

Something the keep in mind, if you go down the route of the mitre gauge or cross cut sled do a little research into the size of the T-slot on the saw, will it be the right size to take an after market sled or M/G. All saws are not the same!! I have a Kitty 419 and nothing fits it!! Incra and other American manufacturers also make all their stuff to fit imperial T-slots. Something to take into account before you splash out on something you can't use without modification. Manufacturers of the newer saws seem to be getting much better at standardizing things these days, but not all!!

 

[Slim]

Something the keep in mind, if you go down the route of the mitre gauge or cross cut sled do a little research into the size of the T-slot on the saw, will it be the right size to take an after market sled or M/G. All saws are not the same!! I have a Kitty 419 and nothing fits it!! Incra and other American manufacturers also make all their stuff to fit imperial T-slots. Something to take into account before you splash out on something you can't use without modification. Manufacturers of the newer saws seem to be getting much better at standardizing things these days, but not all!!

It is a standard 3/4" x 3/8".

 

[dennyk]

Talking about Table saws,

I have a Sheppach 2500CI, this has T Slots.

Does anyone know or has experience of having the slots machined to enable a 3/4inch mitre gauge fitted ??

 

[Woody Alan]

I have a Sheppach 2500CI, this has T Slots.

Does anyone know or has experience of having the slots machined to enable a 3/4inch mitre gauge fitted ??

It would be a lot easier to buy a piece of steel to suit the slot and just drill and tap accordingly, if you are thinking of the EB3 there is a cam nut to adjust it to square so as long as you are close enough it should be OK to do, If the steel is close in size but to tight you can file to fit it won't take as long as you think and you can fit a washer under the end to retain it in the slot. If the steel is slightly loose you can dot punch in a few places to spread the steel to get a close fit. If your top is the cast iron one I don't think there is enough meat in the casting around the slot to take the machining neccessary. If it's aluminium then I haven't a clue.

Alan

 

[ByronBlack]

Thank you all for your help, it's much appreciated. I think for my needs, the SIP would suit me. I did consider the Jet SuperSaw as it's a lovely machine, but at nearly twice the price of the SIP, I don't believe it's twice the saw. So I just need to decide between the Incra and EB3

Or, I saw recently a new aftermarket small sliding table from Jessem (the slide-r) looks very nice and compact too.

Just a quick question about the SIP. Does the power supply have to be 16 amps, or can it run on a 13amp regular plug?

If it does need 16 amps, what do I need to add to my consumer unit (which I believe is carrying 20amps from the house consumer unit), I'll be getting a sparky in if I do need to do this, but just wanted to check what I need to do as I can get the parts cheap from my mrs' father.

And finally, when it's delivered does it come apart easily to help with the moving of it as i'll need to shift it about 20meters into the workshop, and would rather do this in parts and re-assemble in the workshop.

TIA

 

[Mike.C]

Byron I have the 12" model and that needs 16amps but I believe that the 10" one can be run on 13amps.

When its delivered the base is not connected to the main table, but the saw comes inverted in the box, with the base and the other parts, including the 2 extension tables, inside the saw itself.

You can take them out to make it a bit lighter but you will still need help to carry it. My one is 220kg and I cannot see that the 10" model being much lighter.

Cheers

Mike

 

[OLD]

My SIP will run on 13amp but blows fuses so a 16amp supply is required i expect your feed cable and distribution protection will have to be uprated so that you can run other stuff and start up the saw.
16A is the blue industrial plug you could need:- wall mount socket, cable to distribution unit , new mcb in the unit assuming rcd is all ready there ,suitable cable to house, mcb for main consumer unit.
don't expect the sparks to approve the workshop until your sockets are permanently fixed.

 

[Pete Robinson]

Check this thread out as it may answer all your questions regarding power consumption!!

sip 10" cast iron table saw question

 

[Pete Robinson]

Try again!!

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=20400

 

[Pete Robinson]

Sorry!!! Try this one, honestly, this is the right one this time!!!!!

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=20027

 

[ByronBlack]

OLD - thanks for the information. I have a suitable cable from the house to the consumer unit in the workshop already (armoured cable installed by father-in-law), so I just need to add the new hardware from the workshop consumer unit, so thanks for the suggestions about what pieces I need, I'll get on the blower to father-in-law and see what he can supply me with.

At the moment. I need to have the sockets as they are because I can't get it Part P certificated if it's boarded out as the inspectors want to be able to see the wiring, but they'll definitly be fixed as soon as that happens.

Pete - thanks for the link. I shall take a look.

Cheers!

 

[Mike.C]

Yeah right 192kg

Cheers

Mike

 

[martlewis]

I have the SIP 10" running on 13Amp for ages now and never had a fuse trip. As for weight, I had mine fork truck loaded onto the van then unpacked it in the van at home, took it 1 piece at a time down 3 steps, the garden path and another 6 steps off the decking to the shed all on my own. I then assembled and somehow slid the cast iron top onto the base on my own. Hernia time almost and not advisable but can be done!

 

[martlewis]

Oh yeah, and the EB3 is spot on with this saw. Just had to make a sled too. The sliding table was way too big for my shop.

Martin

 

[ByronBlack]

Martin, thanks for the feedback with regards to how to move it. I'll attempt your method, but may leave the heavy bits for a friend, not sure my back will cope!

I think i'll try it on the 13amp circuit and if that fails, my farther-in-law can supply me the components to upgrade to 16amp. So looks like the SIP is the one for me.

Edit: I was remiss not to thank you Mike for your help and input. It is appreciated, as is everyones help.