Sliding Sash Window Drawings
- Thread starter lewy
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woodbloke
Established Member
No - Roblewy":23doyanr said:
JonnyD
Established Member
Hi lewy and welcome I hope i can be off more help than woodbloke.
This is a pic of a traditional sash I hope Jacob wont mind me posting it here.
This is the general idea for a single glazed traditional sash although there are many regional variations in the details. If you are after double glazing the sections and rebates will have to be bigger and it can be difficult to keep the original look but you can use options such as slimlite units plant on bars etc to get the trad look. If you post what you are trying to achieve we may be able to advise you better
cheers
jon
This is a pic of a traditional sash I hope Jacob wont mind me posting it here.
This is the general idea for a single glazed traditional sash although there are many regional variations in the details. If you are after double glazing the sections and rebates will have to be bigger and it can be difficult to keep the original look but you can use options such as slimlite units plant on bars etc to get the trad look. If you post what you are trying to achieve we may be able to advise you better
cheers
jon
woodbloke
Established Member
JonnyD":2w2tmh3p said:
Whilst I generally try and be helpful, I find that even on t'internet, a little bit of an intro from newcomer accompanied by a 'please' will elicit a more favourable response.
Manners maketh man, even on UKWorkshop...or maybe it's just me :duno: - Rob
joiner_sim
Established Member
The drawing is pretty good! The fascia boards should ideally be tongue & grooved into the stiles. Modern sliding sashes generally now come with draught-proofing. Brush seal would be grooved into the staff beads and one of the meeting rebates. The parting bead can be replaced from being the old timber type and can be replaced with plastic flexible stuff.
I have made some for a fussy customer where the sashes had brush seal all the way around and got to admit even in the workshop you could hear and feel it seal!
I have made some for a fussy customer where the sashes had brush seal all the way around and got to admit even in the workshop you could hear and feel it seal!
In that drawing, the meeting rails are 18mm thick ? That can't be right can it ? Even with regional variations ?? :-k
As I remember the George Ellis book 'Modern Practical Joinery' has some good drawings in it. For other things like sash shutters too. Great reference book to dip into when renovating Victorian properties.....
As I remember the George Ellis book 'Modern Practical Joinery' has some good drawings in it. For other things like sash shutters too. Great reference book to dip into when renovating Victorian properties.....
Benchwayze
Established Member
Mr Mike":w1j5pfsg said:In that drawing, the meeting rails are 18mm thick ? That can't be right can it ? Even with regional variations ?? :-k
As I remember the George Ellis book 'Modern Practical Joinery' has some good drawings in it. For other things like sash shutters too. Great reference book to dip into when renovating Victorian properties.....
Looks like the staff bead that's marked. 18mm Mike. Am I right?
Bin a long time since I dismantled one of these!
John
JonnyD":1kdlujpb said:Hi lewy and welcome I hope i can be off more help than woodbloke.
Thankyou John, sorry for forgetting my manners! ooops!! Regards, Lewy This is a pic of a traditional sash I hope Jacob wont mind me posting it here.
This is the general idea for a single glazed traditional sash although there are many regional variations in the details. If you are after double glazing the sections and rebates will have to be bigger and it can be difficult to keep the original look but you can use options such as slimlite units plant on bars etc to get the trad look. If you post what you are trying to achieve we may be able to advise you better
cheers
jon
woodbloke
Established Member
Welcome to the forum...can't help you with the sash window stuff I'm afeard, but there's plenty of members who'll be able to point you in the right direction - Roblewy":26ez0r3d said:
wobblycogs
Established Member
Thanks for the drawing Jon. I've got some very similar looking sash windows to renovate one day in the not too distant future so that drawing is now squirrelled away ready.
joiner_sim
Established Member
If you need any advice on this subject or would like to ask a question PM me, or email me thru my website. I'll be happy to help! I have made hundreds of these in the past.
JoinerySolutions
Established Member
I have a whole range of Cad drawings for box sash windows and an Excell spreadsheet that works out the cutting list, glass sizes,weights required, dimensions and overall weight of each box.
But I'm dammed if I will just give the fruits of my hard work away, I make my living from it!
I don't mind giving advice, but draw the line at questions that appear like this "Has anyone got any generic sliding sash window drawings available?"
Rob.
But I'm dammed if I will just give the fruits of my hard work away, I make my living from it!
I don't mind giving advice, but draw the line at questions that appear like this "Has anyone got any generic sliding sash window drawings available?"
Rob.
SNight
Established Member
For double glazed units, you can use the same dimensions as in the drawings but deepen the rebate to accept a 4-6-4 unit and then use plant on astragels on the exterior, this way you can keep the traditional look of a slim glazing bar. It just meens your moulding on the interior will be smaller and also on the meeting rail you have to use narrow keep fastners.
If you are having to use a thicker double glazed unit then you just have to make the sashes thicker, then also increase the width of the pulley stiles and cill to accept the extra thickness, the outer and inner cheek can stay as per drawing.
If you are having to use a thicker double glazed unit then you just have to make the sashes thicker, then also increase the width of the pulley stiles and cill to accept the extra thickness, the outer and inner cheek can stay as per drawing.
SNight
Established Member
Forgot to say, if you can help it avoid using spiral balances, they are a waste of time and a lot of trouble in the long term.
Joiner sim, although now maybe modern practice, the outer cheek and pulley stile do not have to be tounge and grooved, I have worked on hundreds of these windows the past 3 years all on very old propertys, and only a handfull a t&g together, usuallly they are just nailed on. With modern glues, and pins it is sufficent and saves a whole lot of time!
Joiner sim, although now maybe modern practice, the outer cheek and pulley stile do not have to be tounge and grooved, I have worked on hundreds of these windows the past 3 years all on very old propertys, and only a handfull a t&g together, usuallly they are just nailed on. With modern glues, and pins it is sufficent and saves a whole lot of time!
joiner_sim
Established Member
It is a better job though T&G then glue and pinned on.
