Sliding Compound Mitre saw. Query its footprint.

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Benchwayze

Established Member
Joined
10 Mar 2007
Messages
9,450
Reaction score
111
Location
West Muddylands
I am thinking of replacing my Triton with a sliding Compound Mitre chopsaw.

I plan on building a 'crosscut station' against a wall, The station would have to go behind my bandsaw, so I thought of a 'counter' flap in the table, to allow me to push the bandsaw almost against the wall, when I use it. .

When using the chopsaw, I would roll my bandsaw out and flip up the 'counter-flap', to complete the support for the timber being cut.

As I said, what I really need to know, is how far the bench would project from the wall, so I can assess whether or not to forget the idea, and keep the Triton.

I hope someone can envisage what I mean and assist.
Thanks in anticipation
John :)
 
What sort of saw are you thinking of ? A small DW707 will not need much depth but a big 12" DW or Bosch will need a lot more. Someone posted the footprint of a saw hear within the last week giving fence to back of machine dims.

edit, heres the post

Jason
 
John, the distance the flap sticks out from the wall is the thickness of the flap plus the distance from the hinge knuckle to the wall.

Minimum distance would be half the size of the hinge, laid flat, plus the thickness of the flap.
 
jasonB":38ygo5w8 said:
What sort of saw are you thinking of ? A small DW707 will not need much depth but a big 12" DW or Bosch will need a lot more. Someone posted the footprint of a saw hear within the last week giving fence to back of machine dims.

edit, heres the post

Jason
Thanks for that Jason. I only have 8 feet 3" width of floor space so the lathe, behind me will have to go! Unless I stay with the Triton! The other option is move everything around again"!
Thanks again :) :)

John
 
Shultzy":eqc8g41s said:
John, the distance the flap sticks out from the wall is the thickness of the flap plus the distance from the hinge knuckle to the wall.

Minimum distance would be half the size of the hinge, laid flat, plus the thickness of the flap.

Many thanks Shultzy. Looks like the bench will be too wide, unless I move my lathe and put it on 'sky hooks'... So I will have a rethink.
Thanks again
Regards
John
 
How about keeping the Triton and getting a regular CMS (non-slider), which takes up much less room. That way you have the convenience of the chop saw for the 99% of the mitre/bevel cuts you need to make and the Triton in crosscut mode for the odd occasion that you need bigger capacity. You also have the Triton as a table saw as well of course, unless you intend to do away with a table saw altogether. You can get a good CMS for a lot less than an equivalent quality slider too. I got a DW703 for £169 at B&Q at the end of last year and I'm amazed how much I use it. It is just so quick and convenient for squaring the ends of timbet, cutting to length, mitring skirting etc. etc. etc. The DW was pretty well set up straight out of the box and the cuts are very accurate and repeatable.
 
If you do go that route look at the DW701 & 707, they have the slide bars in the motor housing so will cut 300wide with not much sticking out the back, bit limited on thickness though about 65mm.

Jason
 
George_N":1tt33nav said:
How about keeping the Triton and getting a regular CMS (non-slider), which takes up much less room. That way you have the convenience of the chop saw for the 99% of the mitre/bevel cuts you need to make and the Triton in crosscut mode for the odd occasion that you need bigger capacity. You also have the Triton as a table saw as well of course, unless you intend to do away with a table saw altogether. You can get a good CMS for a lot less than an equivalent quality slider too. I got a DW703 for £169 at B&Q at the end of last year and I'm amazed how much I use it. It is just so quick and convenient for squaring the ends of timbet, cutting to length, mitring skirting etc. etc. etc. The DW was pretty well set up straight out of the box and the cuts are very accurate and repeatable.

Hi George,

I had considered keeping the Triton, as I think it might tuck away under a crosscut bench. Especially if I throw out some doors I had been keeping, but am not likely to use now! You are right about the Triton and I have had it a long time. So thanks for the input. As for B&Q, I rarely go near unless SWIMBO wants some decorating done. I get tempted to buy fancy sheets of board at ridiculous prices if I go in there.

Jason, thanks for your input too.

The deepest cuts I am likely to make would be 2" ( On the Triton, I can always turn the board over for deeper cuts. )

Usually I buy timber up to 2" thick as I am in agreement with Chris Schwarz. If I want 4x4 stock, I glue it up from 2". For one thing it's cheaper to buy 2" boards and for another, I need the practice with a Stanley Jointer! (That's a good name for a chippie! ) So unless it's for a nice piece of furniture that often demands thicker stock, I try to design around 2" stock.

Thanks again fellas.

Regards
John :eek:ccasion5:
 
or what about one of these:



Click the Pic

What's your budget?
 
Well that saw is a good option if you want to save space. If money really is no object then of course your best option is the Festool Kapex.
 
Hi Wizer,
Thanks for the lead on the Hitachi. It's probably what I'll go for, at the price. I think it looks a good buy, so I am looking into that. So, maybe I wouldn't say money is no problem, but I have some to spend right now, so I'd rather buy 'things', than leave it for the taxman.


Festool? Supposedly the best, but I don't like paying for a name.
Which is why it was good I didn't buy a Felder when I was really flush! From what I hear the after sales service leaves a lot to be desired.
But mainly, I just didn't have room in a 17' x 8' garage, for a Felder Combi!

Cheers again Wizer.

It might well be a Hitachi at that price!
Regards
John
 
Back
Top