Slack and Sellars saw

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Merlin76uk

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I found this Slack and Sellars saw at my father's house after he passed away recently, I've tried searching the Web for any information on it but have come up blank even reverse image search doesn't bring up any results.
I'm just looking for some information about the saw and an age for it, as I'm not sure if it was my grandfathers (maternal) who was a joiner or belonged to a great uncle (paternal) any help is greatly appreciated.

I've attached some pictures and a picture of the case it is unsure if the case is part of it or if it was made for it.
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hello, the side with bigger teeth is for cross cutting 'green' wood so things like big branches off of living trees, the other side appears to be a standard rip pattern, I don't know but would take a guess that this was designed for outdoor work before chainsaws were widely used, I haven't seen a saw like this before but am certainly no expert on tools, it is unusual though.
 
not being particular here, but the teeth on the small side look like they're set to rasp and slice along the sides than the tip (so either some kind of hybrid or more for aggressive crosscut). They are unusual in that the fleamish filing is added to the top of the teeth and the rake is close to zero.

When something being cut tends to be wider, it doesn't matter if the teeth are aggressive, though, and perhaps if the wood is green, same.

Interesting saw. The filing is done neatly, but I've literally never seen teeth done exactly like that before (the small ones)
 
hello, the side with bigger teeth is for cross cutting 'green' wood so things like big branches off of living trees, the other side appears to be a standard rip pattern, I don't know but would take a guess that this was designed for outdoor work before chainsaws were widely used, I haven't seen a saw like this before but am certainly no expert on tools, it is unusual though.
Thankyou, yeah I thought the same as the bigger teeth are definitely those like a bow saw, which really confused me as no one in my family that I know of would have worked with 'green' wood.
 
actually it looks like a cross cut/fleam not rip cut looking at the pics in more detail, do the saw points have an angle to them?


it might be that somebody has cut in the extra teeth on the top side and originally it was a straight edge.
 
not being particular here, but the teeth on the small side look like they're set to rasp and slice along the sides than the tip (so either some kind of hybrid or more for aggressive crosscut). They are unusual in that the fleamish filing is added to the top of the teeth and the rake is close to zero.

When something being cut tends to be wider, it doesn't matter if the teeth are aggressive, though, and perhaps if the wood is green, same.

Interesting saw. The filing is done neatly, but I've literally never seen teeth done exactly like that before (the small ones)
It is really puzzling me as I cannot find anything like it on Google either...
 
Okay seems the wife is the one for researching things, she looked at the case and searched and found this link

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ww2-emcol-1944-gr-stamped-double-271341877
So the mystery is solved so to speak, I am guessing it belonged to either of my Grandfathers as they both served in the war, although my paternal Grandfather did see time in the trenches so it may have been his.
 
I note what looks like the broad arrow mark and given the date of 1943 could this be a modified tool for use by armed forces - sappers, vehicle issue, jungle settings? (Just guessing I know nothing about the military really)
I have a Slack Sellars backsaw with the same logo, the broad arrow and the same date - it is a very good saw.
EDIT - Sorry obviously didn't see the previous post, your wife has got to the bottom of that - good stuff!
 
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It is really puzzling me as I cannot find anything like it on Google either...

I have experimented from time time with "quick" methods to sharpen crosscut teeth faster, and those were probably sharpened like that because someone had a use where it works well.

It's definitely the case that you can short one side of the tooth and not the other or slope gullets or all kinds of things, but what's usually given up is the tooth efficiency (e.g., if the point gets too tall and slender, the tooth rasps instead of severing, and it feels like it - you end up rasping through the cut rather than efficiently severing) vs cleanliness, etc. If the cut is good and aggressive, then often it tears up the back side and you end up learning some things to manipulate but, but you go back to "the usual" for neat work.
 
It's a pruning saw, I have come across quite a few in the UK. Aggressive and lots of set for cutting (ie. pruning) living branches. Some of mine were supplied by the Army and Navy store.
 

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