Simple milling using a pillar drill - is it possible?

[Dan Steely]

Hi,

Is it possible to do simple milling jobs using a pillar drill and an X-Y table?

If so, where would one find a suitable X-Y table?

What should I be searching for?

Many thanks.

 

[AES]

The problem is that AFAIK, all pillar drills are designed with their bearings to take UP and DOWN forces. Milling presents a SIDE to SIDE and/or BACK to FRONT forces.

I (and many others) do use a pillar drill with sanding drums which present similar forces, and the better pillar drills (with bigger bearings) do seem to stand up to that OK if used with discretion. But we're talking sanding/shaping wood or plastics.

In my case I also rigged up a jig whereby a ball race is embedded on the drill table and the sanding drum has a "nipple" at the bottom which engages with the ball race fixed in a wooden "plate" bolted to the drill table, thereby giving some sideways & front to back support. I hope that's clear?

Of course milling metal (I presume that's what you want to do) will present much greater sideways forces, and it's hard to see how to make up the lower ball race support that I describe above. However, with VERY light cuts, on softer metals (ali?) should be OK, again used with great discretion, and on a one off "emergency" basis.

But although I'm sure that people like Arc Eurotrade (usual disclaimers) can fix you up with a suitable X-Y table vice, personally I would NOT do that, as you'll then be "milling" all the time and I'm pretty sure you'll end up with a pillar drill with no accuracy/lots of wobble because of sloppy quill bearings.

If you can't afford a mill (and I can't, not even a little Chinese jobbie) a much better bet would be a milling "attachment" for a lathe, or even files and drills working by hand can often get you good results.

Sorry to be a nay-sayer but IMHO, NOT a good idea.

 

[J-G]

I'll add my concerns to those expressed by AES. - I've tried (some years ago!) and failed miserably. The lateral forces are great enough to dislodge the chuck and even at low speed that's a dangerous situation.

Milling machines not only have different bearing arrangements, they also use a 'Draw Bar' through the quill to hold the tools.

 

[deema]

The answer, is buy a cheap mill and you can of course use it to drill as well rudimentary milling depending on how ‘rough’ it is. I say cheap as wood dust and metalwork machines are not best bed fellows.

 

[paulrbarnard]

The answer, is buy a cheap mill and you can of course use it to drill as well rudimentary milling depending on how ‘rough’ it is. I say cheap as wood dust and metalwork machines are not best bed fellows.

This is the way I went. I have a cheap Chinese mill which I use for the occasional pillar drill need.

 

[niall Y]

It can be done. I remember seeing an Australian guy on YouTube, who had adapted his pillar drill to do, just this. Can't remember the exact details, but I believe he swapped out the chuck for a collet and improvised a way of stopping this falling out. I remember that the pillar drill was strapped back to the wall, or ceiling of his workshop to give is some rigidity.
Don't know if the video is still there. And, I can't remember much else, except, that the pillar drill was the same one as mine - a Taiwanese one, rebadged by Elekrta Beckum.

 

[Dan Steely]

Thanks guys,
I'm not at all surprised by the points you raise. My big problem is space.
I could probably afford a second hand or new Chinese milling machine but have nowhere to put it!
The other issue regarding my pillar drill (BOSCH PBD40) is the speed range (200-2500) and am not sure if it's slow enough or have enough torque – let alone the bearing issue.
While we’re on the subject: What are your opinions regarding using a router and moving the machine and not the work?

 

[AES]

Thanks guys,
I'm not at all surprised by the points you raise. My big problem is space.
I could probably afford a second hand or new Chinese milling machine but have nowhere to put it!
The other issue regarding my pillar drill (BOSCH PBD40) is the speed range (200-2500) and am not sure if it's slow enough or have enough torque – let alone the bearing issue.
While we’re on the subject: What are your opinions regarding using a router and moving the machine and not the work?

Sorry, you'll have to do a full search, 'cos I don't remember who posted, when, or under what title (i.e. I'm not much help)! But although the idea horrifies me personally, apparently at least one member has done exactly what you describe, albeit I THINK "only" with relatively shallow passes AND only on ali. IMHO, using a router for wood to mill metal really IS pushing the collet, and likely, even at it's slowest a router will run too fast. But a couple of people disagreed with those points and, as said, at least one member has done it, apparently with success.

Personally though I wouldn't do it, but perhaps I'm over-cautious?

HTH

Edit for PS: AND, as I think it was J-G pointed out above, mixing metal swarf with saw dust is generally not a good idea, with potential damage to bearings (unless sealed), motor brushes/commutator, ventilation passages, etc.

 

[Jameshow]

Thanks guys,
I'm not at all surprised by the points you raise. My big problem is space.
I could probably afford a second hand or new Chinese milling machine but have nowhere to put it!
The other issue regarding my pillar drill (BOSCH PBD40) is the speed range (200-2500) and am not sure if it's slow enough or have enough torque – let alone the bearing issue.
While we’re on the subject: What are your opinions regarding using a router and moving the machine and not the work?

I don't think you have a chance of milling with that pillar drill.

A big old pillar drill would have the weight, bearings and torque to mill with.

Chinese and modern electronic drills don't have the mass for heavy work.

 

[Sideways]

Assuming the spindle has a morse or other taper,
A. Vibration will cause the chuck to come loose and fall out of the spindle.
B. Milling involves lots of periods of cutting with side forces without any upward force on the cutter to keep the chuck pushed up into the spindle. So A. happens !

You face the same hazard if you use a sanding drum or brush in a drill. No end force and sometimes vibration.
Everything depends on how well the taper sticks in your drill.
A mill has a threaded rod down through the spindle to pull the chuck tightly into the taper regardless of vibration.

 

[skeetstar]

Pretty much my reasoning for not using things that need lateral pressure, grinding wheels, wire brushes etc in my drill drivers. I can't imagine the designers allowed for this eventuality when specifying the bearings, and designing the bearing housings. Best get the proper tool, maybe an angle grinder.

 

[Cozzer]

I haven't the space for any big gear in my little shed - so something like a planer/thicknesser is unfortunately out of the question - but I have toyed with the idea of a 'rotary planer' before now.
For wood only as far as I know, so perhaps not an idea for the original poster.



and

 

[niall Y]

Thanks guys,
I'm not at all surprised by the points you raise. My big problem is space.
I could probably afford a second hand or new Chinese milling machine but have nowhere to put it!
The other issue regarding my pillar drill (BOSCH PBD40) is the speed range (200-2500) and am not sure if it's slow enough or have enough torque – let alone the bearing issue.
While we’re on the subject: What are your opinions regarding using a router and moving the machine and not the work?

You can use a router to work aluminium. I have used my overhead router to cut slots in 6mm thick aluminium. This can get quite messy if you are using a lubricant. This is a lot easier with the overhead - rather than a hand held. The trick is to use a sharp tungsten cutter and not go too deep with each pass.

 

[hugov]

Youtuber Cosmas Bauer has done some surprising things with a woodworking router, including milling cast iron:

While I doubt I'd have the cojones to try milling cast iron like that, I would do and have done minor cuts (e.g. small chamfers) in aluminum using a router. As others have said, you need to think carefully about dust/swarf extraction and protecting the ventilation on the router, since it won't be designed to tolerate conductive chips.

I wouldn't even try milling on my pillar drill (due to risk of dropping the chuck out of the quill taper), however I believe your Bosch one has a screwed-on chuck that can't drop, so you have less risk if you want to try anyway.

 

[Sideways]

Pretty much my reasoning for not using things that need lateral pressure, grinding wheels, wire brushes etc in my drill drivers. I can't imagine the designers allowed for this eventuality when specifying the bearings, and designing the bearing housings. Best get the proper tool, maybe an angle grinder.

To be fair, having replaced the bearings on a big old Fobco pillar drill, the lower bearings are a pair of big angular contact bearings which will take a considerable side load. There's a third bearing at the top of the quill to keep the spindle straight. They would be perfectly capable of light milling but without a drawbar, the collet chuck or whatever you use is never going to stay in.
There is a milling variant of the little old Fobco star drill. It's rare.

 

[Dan Steely]

I've been just looking at the tiny Proxxon milling machine. Does anyone have experience of this machine?
https://www.axminstertools.com/proxxon-mf-70-milling-machine-371104

 

[fleyh]

Youtuber Mike M. recently released a video on this topic.

 

[Dan Steely]

That was a very interesting video. Thanks.

 

[J-G]

I've been just looking at the tiny Proxxon milling machine. Does anyone have experience of this machine?
https://www.axminstertools.com/proxxon-mf-70-milling-machine-371104

I've had two! - both motors failed and I had no responce to my questions to PROXXON regarding a replacement.

I wouldn't consider using one to machine steel, Alum or Brass only taking very fine cuts < 0.2mm. The dials are 'tiny'.

Cutting hardwoods such as Ebony, Snakewood, Hard Maple, Cocobolo - is OK but again never with a DoC > 0.5mm

 

[clogs]

150's - 60's...there were quite a few diff manufacturers of beefed up pillar drills that can be used as a lightweight mill....and bench drill......
last time I viewed one it was around £300.....
not a bad price considering.....
because of the rise in home workshops small'ish machines are getting unaffordable.....