EddieJ
Established Member
Sorry the photos have gone AWOL. I'll try again later! 
Sorry if this is very long, but hopefully it could be useful for anyone considering building a shed, workshop, or garage.
I don’t normally photograph each stage of garage construction, but as the following was carried out at my mother-in-laws, I naturally took photographs as I went along. For one foolish moment, I also consided entering it into the competition, but can’t meet the 350 words, six photo brief!
At some stage, I shall add the methods used in the taking of levels and setting of datum points. I shall also add any info that I can think of, that may be of help to anyone that is considering building a workshop, shed or garage.
This garage is the maximum permitted size that can be constructed without any planning or building regs requirement (subject to conditions) When finished it shall measure 5986mm wide x 5495mm deep and have a ridge height of 3950mm, incorporate two full hip ends and a rear 'catslide' roof. It is going to be open fronted and constructed using an 'English Oak' main frame with softwood pressure treated rafters and bracing. The frame is to be finished in slate to match the existing property.
Note..I shall add a full guide to current building and planning regulations for garages and outbuildings at some stage.
The first job was to clear the site, which involved demolishing, and removing the old garage and clearing all the other debris and trees from site.
All work has been carried out by myself, with one of my nephews labouring for me as and when required.
The machine that I hired for the initial heavy clearance aspect of the project was an 8ton Hitachi. Scarily, in the one week that I hired the machine for, I used over £150.00p worth of red diesel! The dumper was a three ton swivel tip. The second and smaller machine that was used in the later stages was a 3 1/2 ton Kubota KX101.
The clearance and burning of old trees begins..
The next stage after the tree removal was the much needed widening of the driveway. It is now wide enough to comfortably accommodate an 8 wheeler lorry.
Delivery of a 20ton load of MOT type1
I managed to hit the mains water supply which isn’t a problem, but below that is the mains gas supply, which is now sitting 1200mm out of the ground. If I could have figured out how to lower this myself I would have. Sadly, I didn’t and we had to pay!
Next stage was the removal of the old garage and sub standard base.
The boss, ChloeJ, having a play on the dumper.
TIP.. Loading the muck away lorries yourself saves on costs, as you only pay haulage and tipping. This aspect is worth considering if you are carrying out a similar project.
Excavation begins.
Due to often unseen and unknown ground conditions, I very often just carry out raft foundations, but because one corner of the garage had previously had a large tree growing on it, I decided to just do a simple strip foundation. Thankfully the site is pretty much solid sandstone, so I just went 450mm on one side and 1000mm on the corner that had previously had the tree growing.
TIP.. (If you are considering carrying out your own building project and anticipate digging strip foundations, often information about digging depth can be found by consulting your local planning/ building control department. They will have records indicating soil conditions for your area and this can save you a lot of time and wasted expense.)
One example of wasted expense, was on a job that I carried out many years ago. I anticipated doing a raft foundation, but was advised to do 1000mm deep strip footings. The building inspector came and then proceeded to tell me that I had to go down to 3,600mm. It was a ridiculous depth, just to put four courses of brickwork on, and eventually they agreed to allow me to build a raft foundation using the 1000mm as a heel.
Back to this project, and once my levels had been set and the profiles erected, it was time to start the dig. I usually only mark the centre of dig when excavating, but I had plenty of time on my hands, so marked the full width.
TIP.. If you are getting an outside contractor to dig the footings for you, ask before starting, if they want to see the outside or centre of dig to be marked up. Also set your profile boards up, far enough away so as not to interfere with machine operation
TIP.. Plan where you want any services to run, prior to pouring the concrete.
Concrete being poured.
Note rebar pins used for level. These can be placed in a vertical or horizontal position.
The morning after pouring the concrete for the footings, I dug the oversite and off hired the machine.
After this, three courses of brickwork were laid. These are used as shuttering for the slab. Note that with a base of this size, there is no need to allow expansion joint around the edge.
I also had some terram laying around doing nothing, so just added as it can’t do any harm and also helps to spread load over soft spots (had there been any)
After this, I spread 75mm of reject beach. I would normally then spread a thin layer of sand over this to prevent puncturing the layer of DPC, but as that wasn't an issue on this build, I left it out.
TIP.. Using reject beach saves time and money. It is cheaper than type1 or equivalent and does not need, or cannot be compacted, so saves the cost of hiring compaction equipment.
Note, lovely snow still on the ground!
Next a layer of DPC polythene is laid, followed by A142 steel mesh that’s wired together and set at approx 50mm up.
Concrete and concrete reinforcement is a very involved subject, with various mixes to suite various applications and reinforcing to aid crack control and reinforcing for structural strength. The two applications are very different and just treading a sheet of steel mesh into wet concrete does nothing and is a complete waste of time and money. . Before I get pulled on it, I also haven't used saddles and benchmen for supporting the mesh, as the nearest place to me to buy them is some 18miles away!
TIP.. To prevent damp, the DPC polythene should be lapped up the sides of the internal shuttering and the joints thoroughly taped.
I have not lapped the polythene up the sides, as my use of it is purely to hold the water in the concrete that is to be poured, only long enough to make the tamping out easy, and not specifically to stop damp.
The main slab was then finished with 150mm of C35 concrete, which was thickened at the front edge to 225mm. Because of the low temperature when the concrete was poured and the fact that the shuttering bricks were only laid three days previously, the mix was kept stiff and tamping was whilst carried out thoroughly, was also kept to a minimum.
The pour was just after the snow falls that we had.
TIP.. When ordering concrete, and assuming that you know roughly the quantity that is required, order it as your required quantity 'plus'. The term 'plus will ensure that you are not charged over and above for any further required concrete and the company will be legally obliged to do your 'plus' load by return and not just when they can fit it in because you have under ordered.
The concrete was then left thoroughly covered up for a week.
TIP.. For anyone tackling any concrete work, the tool shown below is the dogs nuts for levelling out. It is an American designed rake, that is far easier than using a conventional rake or shovel.
The brick bond that I used, is a variation of 'garden wall' bond. I tend to use this bond, as it is very strong and lends itself very well aesthetically to the style of buildings that I make. I also do not put a damp course into any of the four courses as it has proved to be a weak link, and leaves the potential for the frame and brickwork to slide.
I shall expand upon the setting out and laying of brickwork in the near future, but shown below are some links that you may find useful, that show brickwork bonds and techniques for laying. It is a very subjective topic, so some may feel that certain aspects have been covered incorrectly.
http://www.ngfl-cymru.org.uk/vtc/ngf...l&fc_work4.pdf
http://www.ibstock.com/pdfs/get-it-r...etitright4.pdf
http://www.ibstock.com/pdfs/technica...ged-bricks.pdf
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...sandblocks.htm
This is how the timber arrives at the sawmill where my workshop is located. It is sawn within stones through of my workshop, then...
This is how I receive the timber that has been sawn to the rough section size.
Knee braces, marked and ready to be cut out, and some of the frame already in the back of my van.
The start of laying the materials out.
The start of frame erection. It’s very annoying that when carrying out your own work, nothing seems to go right!
The progress continues. I generally ply line the outside of frames prior to fitting weather boarding. To me, it always looks nice, and certainly helps in respect of frame rigidity.
Front frame details.
Note that I no longer tend cut the tie beam tennons all the way through.
And this is the finished article.
Sorry if this is very long, but hopefully it could be useful for anyone considering building a shed, workshop, or garage.
I don’t normally photograph each stage of garage construction, but as the following was carried out at my mother-in-laws, I naturally took photographs as I went along. For one foolish moment, I also consided entering it into the competition, but can’t meet the 350 words, six photo brief!
At some stage, I shall add the methods used in the taking of levels and setting of datum points. I shall also add any info that I can think of, that may be of help to anyone that is considering building a workshop, shed or garage.
This garage is the maximum permitted size that can be constructed without any planning or building regs requirement (subject to conditions) When finished it shall measure 5986mm wide x 5495mm deep and have a ridge height of 3950mm, incorporate two full hip ends and a rear 'catslide' roof. It is going to be open fronted and constructed using an 'English Oak' main frame with softwood pressure treated rafters and bracing. The frame is to be finished in slate to match the existing property.
Note..I shall add a full guide to current building and planning regulations for garages and outbuildings at some stage.
The first job was to clear the site, which involved demolishing, and removing the old garage and clearing all the other debris and trees from site.
All work has been carried out by myself, with one of my nephews labouring for me as and when required.
The machine that I hired for the initial heavy clearance aspect of the project was an 8ton Hitachi. Scarily, in the one week that I hired the machine for, I used over £150.00p worth of red diesel! The dumper was a three ton swivel tip. The second and smaller machine that was used in the later stages was a 3 1/2 ton Kubota KX101.
The clearance and burning of old trees begins..
The next stage after the tree removal was the much needed widening of the driveway. It is now wide enough to comfortably accommodate an 8 wheeler lorry.
Delivery of a 20ton load of MOT type1
I managed to hit the mains water supply which isn’t a problem, but below that is the mains gas supply, which is now sitting 1200mm out of the ground. If I could have figured out how to lower this myself I would have. Sadly, I didn’t and we had to pay!
Next stage was the removal of the old garage and sub standard base.
The boss, ChloeJ, having a play on the dumper.
TIP.. Loading the muck away lorries yourself saves on costs, as you only pay haulage and tipping. This aspect is worth considering if you are carrying out a similar project.
Excavation begins.
Due to often unseen and unknown ground conditions, I very often just carry out raft foundations, but because one corner of the garage had previously had a large tree growing on it, I decided to just do a simple strip foundation. Thankfully the site is pretty much solid sandstone, so I just went 450mm on one side and 1000mm on the corner that had previously had the tree growing.
TIP.. (If you are considering carrying out your own building project and anticipate digging strip foundations, often information about digging depth can be found by consulting your local planning/ building control department. They will have records indicating soil conditions for your area and this can save you a lot of time and wasted expense.)
One example of wasted expense, was on a job that I carried out many years ago. I anticipated doing a raft foundation, but was advised to do 1000mm deep strip footings. The building inspector came and then proceeded to tell me that I had to go down to 3,600mm. It was a ridiculous depth, just to put four courses of brickwork on, and eventually they agreed to allow me to build a raft foundation using the 1000mm as a heel.
Back to this project, and once my levels had been set and the profiles erected, it was time to start the dig. I usually only mark the centre of dig when excavating, but I had plenty of time on my hands, so marked the full width.
TIP.. If you are getting an outside contractor to dig the footings for you, ask before starting, if they want to see the outside or centre of dig to be marked up. Also set your profile boards up, far enough away so as not to interfere with machine operation
TIP.. Plan where you want any services to run, prior to pouring the concrete.
Concrete being poured.
Note rebar pins used for level. These can be placed in a vertical or horizontal position.
The morning after pouring the concrete for the footings, I dug the oversite and off hired the machine.
After this, three courses of brickwork were laid. These are used as shuttering for the slab. Note that with a base of this size, there is no need to allow expansion joint around the edge.
I also had some terram laying around doing nothing, so just added as it can’t do any harm and also helps to spread load over soft spots (had there been any)
After this, I spread 75mm of reject beach. I would normally then spread a thin layer of sand over this to prevent puncturing the layer of DPC, but as that wasn't an issue on this build, I left it out.
TIP.. Using reject beach saves time and money. It is cheaper than type1 or equivalent and does not need, or cannot be compacted, so saves the cost of hiring compaction equipment.
Note, lovely snow still on the ground!
Next a layer of DPC polythene is laid, followed by A142 steel mesh that’s wired together and set at approx 50mm up.
Concrete and concrete reinforcement is a very involved subject, with various mixes to suite various applications and reinforcing to aid crack control and reinforcing for structural strength. The two applications are very different and just treading a sheet of steel mesh into wet concrete does nothing and is a complete waste of time and money. . Before I get pulled on it, I also haven't used saddles and benchmen for supporting the mesh, as the nearest place to me to buy them is some 18miles away!
TIP.. To prevent damp, the DPC polythene should be lapped up the sides of the internal shuttering and the joints thoroughly taped.
I have not lapped the polythene up the sides, as my use of it is purely to hold the water in the concrete that is to be poured, only long enough to make the tamping out easy, and not specifically to stop damp.
The main slab was then finished with 150mm of C35 concrete, which was thickened at the front edge to 225mm. Because of the low temperature when the concrete was poured and the fact that the shuttering bricks were only laid three days previously, the mix was kept stiff and tamping was whilst carried out thoroughly, was also kept to a minimum.
The pour was just after the snow falls that we had.
TIP.. When ordering concrete, and assuming that you know roughly the quantity that is required, order it as your required quantity 'plus'. The term 'plus will ensure that you are not charged over and above for any further required concrete and the company will be legally obliged to do your 'plus' load by return and not just when they can fit it in because you have under ordered.
The concrete was then left thoroughly covered up for a week.
TIP.. For anyone tackling any concrete work, the tool shown below is the dogs nuts for levelling out. It is an American designed rake, that is far easier than using a conventional rake or shovel.
The brick bond that I used, is a variation of 'garden wall' bond. I tend to use this bond, as it is very strong and lends itself very well aesthetically to the style of buildings that I make. I also do not put a damp course into any of the four courses as it has proved to be a weak link, and leaves the potential for the frame and brickwork to slide.
I shall expand upon the setting out and laying of brickwork in the near future, but shown below are some links that you may find useful, that show brickwork bonds and techniques for laying. It is a very subjective topic, so some may feel that certain aspects have been covered incorrectly.
http://www.ngfl-cymru.org.uk/vtc/ngf...l&fc_work4.pdf
http://www.ibstock.com/pdfs/get-it-r...etitright4.pdf
http://www.ibstock.com/pdfs/technica...ged-bricks.pdf
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...sandblocks.htm
This is how the timber arrives at the sawmill where my workshop is located. It is sawn within stones through of my workshop, then...
This is how I receive the timber that has been sawn to the rough section size.
Knee braces, marked and ready to be cut out, and some of the frame already in the back of my van.
The start of laying the materials out.
The start of frame erection. It’s very annoying that when carrying out your own work, nothing seems to go right!
The progress continues. I generally ply line the outside of frames prior to fitting weather boarding. To me, it always looks nice, and certainly helps in respect of frame rigidity.
Front frame details.
Note that I no longer tend cut the tie beam tennons all the way through.
And this is the finished article.
