Shoulder planes - Advice new vs seconhand

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Flattening a sole is hard work. You first have to determine if its convave or convex or both. If it is both first do as it if it was convex than redo flattening like concave.

Concave:
- Find a dead flat area about 3 times as large as the plane. attach course grit of sandpaper of that length (use rolls instead of sheets for large planes).
- Find out if the sole thickness is tapered.
- Add marking tape on top of the sandpaper to ride the thin side of the sole on if present.
- mark the sole with a felt tipped pen or marker.
- run a few passes and check if metal is removed from the high spots only.
- continue flattening and recheck flatness regularly and re apply markings
- remove masking tape if needed
- continue flattening untill all markings are removed at the same rate.

Concave:
- Find a dead flat area about 3 times as large as the plane. attach course grit of sandpaper of that length (use rolls instead of sheets for large planes).
- Find out if the sole thickness is tapered.
- Add marking tape on top of the sandpaper to ride the thin side of the sole on if present.
- Add multiple lengths of masking tape at start and end of the concavity.
- place a sheet (or more) of paper underneath the sanding paper the make it also concave.
- mark the sole with a felt tipped pen or marker.
- run a few passes and check if metal is removed from the high spot only.
- continue flattening and recheck flatness regularly and reapply markings
- remove masking tape if needed
- continue flattening until all markings are removed at the same rate.


When doing this powered is have to be done like using a jointer or drumsander. However the plane itself can not be used as the riding surface on the bed or table. Its way to short. The plane has to be mounted in a sled. Checking the alignment of this sled and the plane and adjust misalignment using means of acurate micro adjusters.
 
tnimble - Thanks for your very comprehensive replies.

DavidC - I think your comment ".....creeping cost cutting, due to shrinking markets and complete ignorance of tool use. - is probably spot on.

While I do not mind attempting a little fettling on a tool bought for a reasonable price, that tool should be of good quality in the first place. For instance I had seen This rusty old thing on the bay and thought I might put a bid in for a "tenner" and it would give me some exercise in fettling and rust removal etc. By the time I decided to bid it had gone way over what it was worth to me.

One of the difficulties for a newbie like me is gaining the correct knowledge about tools to make an informed decision on what to look for and buy (I have made some poor choices in the past i.e. cheapo!!). So the advice and opinions offerered here to me are invaluable.

David your DVD's or on my Christmas list with SWMBO :)

Cheers :D
Tony
EDIT
The Record 073 This
Went for £67 + £6 p&p - so much for me thinking it was worth about £10
:shock:
 
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