After reading Alf's excellent review of the LV's I am tempted, however I note that the LV blades are secured laterally by 4 small screws which seems a great concept. The LN planes have no such refinement in fact the blades are 5 thou wider than the body, I assume this is to enable one to set the side of the blade to scrape the shoulder of a tenon when planing the cheek face. Clearly IF this is an essential requirement, adjusting the screws on the LV every time you went from shoulder to cheek cuts would be a no no. Any comments.
Shoulder plane question
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Anonymous
Guest
I have the large and medium LV shoulder planes and would not consider the LNs in their place (even though I am a devout LN fan). The problem you mentuon is not a real problem at all when in use - I never need to adjust these screws once I have set the blade after sharpening
woodbloke
Established Member
Pete - as we discussed last week, I don't use the shoulder plane for tenons but I've found the 073 LN invaluable for preparing the mitres on secret mitred dovetails and cleaning up rebates. The largest size gives excellent control, tho' I suppose at the end of the day there's not a lot of difference in the way the LN and LV perform....you pays your money etc - Rob
Paul Chapman
Established Member
Pete,
I have a very good article by Chris Gochnour in an old copy of the American magazine, Fine Woodworking, all about the use of shoulder planes for a whole range of different jobs. He also covers the setting up of the blade in the plane. The numerous illustrations show him using the medium and large Veritas shoulder planes. I'll bring the magazine with me when I come down next week. I think you'll find it helpful.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
I have a very good article by Chris Gochnour in an old copy of the American magazine, Fine Woodworking, all about the use of shoulder planes for a whole range of different jobs. He also covers the setting up of the blade in the plane. The numerous illustrations show him using the medium and large Veritas shoulder planes. I'll bring the magazine with me when I come down next week. I think you'll find it helpful.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
David C
In Memorium
I have never had a problem setting 073 type shoulder planes which always have a blade slightly wider than the body.
Just flush the protruding edge with the stock of a small metal setsquare.
If you were planing a deep rebate from scratch it might be worth inserting a cigarette paper under the square so that the blade protrudes by a hair.
Incidentally, no manufacturer points out that all shoulder planes need a little sole flattening once the working tension has been set........
David Charlesworth
Just flush the protruding edge with the stock of a small metal setsquare.
If you were planing a deep rebate from scratch it might be worth inserting a cigarette paper under the square so that the blade protrudes by a hair.
Incidentally, no manufacturer points out that all shoulder planes need a little sole flattening once the working tension has been set........
David Charlesworth
Woody Alan
Established Member
David
I like the run of dots indicating you expect a response. Interesting that Veritas makes the contrary point that there will be some deflection of the sole behind the cutting edge on their planes and this can be disregarded as the blade protrudes further from the general sole "datum?" and as such does not interfere with the performance of the plane.
Can I ask. If the sole is flattened to a working tension, how do you consistently set the tension the same every time?
P.S my quote of the Lee Valley notes is from memory not direct reading, so stand to be corrected.
Alan
I like the run of dots indicating you expect a response. Interesting that Veritas makes the contrary point that there will be some deflection of the sole behind the cutting edge on their planes and this can be disregarded as the blade protrudes further from the general sole "datum?" and as such does not interfere with the performance of the plane.Can I ask. If the sole is flattened to a working tension, how do you consistently set the tension the same every time?
P.S my quote of the Lee Valley notes is from memory not direct reading, so stand to be corrected.
Alan
Alf
Established Member
I believe that's the very thing he does, Pete.
Cheers, Alf
Cheers, Alf
Mirboo
Established Member
Woody Alan":37udu0n5 said:
Perhaps we need a Veritas or Lie-Nielsen shoulder plane torque wrench. :wink: OK, I'll go now. 8-[
Paul Kierstead
Established Member
Mirboo":1ws3obqw said:
Oh, man, that is awesome. Should it be digital (accurate but a bit gauche) or should it be analog, or maybe just goes click when you hit the "correct" tension.
dunbarhamlin
Established Member
Since the pollux is a digit, should that be 100% digital (20% thumb) or is it to cater for folks who are ALL thumbs
David C
In Memorium
Great stuff!
I mark working tension with a felt tip line. It is important to set consistent tension if you have performed the minimal tuning required.
Also first contact.
I release half way for adjustment.
If the bump behind the throat is 1.5 thou and you wish to take a shaving of one thou, you are snookered. The plane will not take a shaving of less than 1.5 thou. This applies to all planes.
The row of dots generally indicates language too colourful for the delicate sensebilities of a public forum. If however it ellicits responses, that is fine by me.
David Charlesworth
I mark working tension with a felt tip line. It is important to set consistent tension if you have performed the minimal tuning required.
Also first contact.
I release half way for adjustment.
If the bump behind the throat is 1.5 thou and you wish to take a shaving of one thou, you are snookered. The plane will not take a shaving of less than 1.5 thou. This applies to all planes.
The row of dots generally indicates language too colourful for the delicate sensebilities of a public forum. If however it ellicits responses, that is fine by me.
David Charlesworth
Alf
Established Member
LV's instructions; seems slightly fairer to at least have the original given how readily available it is.
Cheers, Alf
Cheers, Alf
David C
In Memorium
Thanks Alf, I have just returned to my computer to edit previous post!
David
David
David C
In Memorium
Having read the LV instructions it is excellent that the sole deflection issue is mentioned.
But the solution to the problem, i.e. a little sole flattening, once you have decided on a suitable working tension, is not.
I have been trying to get manufacturers to include tuning notes for over 25 years. None have ever agreed. They point out that tuning notes might imply some deficiency in original manufacture.
This is not the case in my view. Each user will choose to set a different working tension.
David Charlesworth
But the solution to the problem, i.e. a little sole flattening, once you have decided on a suitable working tension, is not.
I have been trying to get manufacturers to include tuning notes for over 25 years. None have ever agreed. They point out that tuning notes might imply some deficiency in original manufacture.
This is not the case in my view. Each user will choose to set a different working tension.
David Charlesworth
Woody Alan
Established Member
Also Edited
David C
In Memorium
This quote is from the destructions;
"As you tighten the wheel, you increase the blade clamping force that, in turn, results in a slight deflection of the blade bed. This is normal and does not affect performance. A very light clamp force will deflect the blade bed 0.0005". A hard clamp force will deflect the blade bed by as much as 0.003". Extremely small adjustments to blade depth can be achieved by changing the blade clamping force. Clamp the blade (1/8 turn should be ample do not overclamp)"
I would like to know how much the sole behind the throat deflects when the 1/8th turn is applied.
This is the small amount of metal which I suggest is removed by tuning. You will then be able to take a superfine shaving.
This advice applies to all shoulder and rebate planes. It is good to mark the spin wheel, so that a consistent tension can be set every time. Some users massively overtighten spin wheels. We only require the minimum tension which will keep the lever stable in use, but some users grip a tool far harder than others.
David Charlesworth
"As you tighten the wheel, you increase the blade clamping force that, in turn, results in a slight deflection of the blade bed. This is normal and does not affect performance. A very light clamp force will deflect the blade bed 0.0005". A hard clamp force will deflect the blade bed by as much as 0.003". Extremely small adjustments to blade depth can be achieved by changing the blade clamping force. Clamp the blade (1/8 turn should be ample do not overclamp)"
I would like to know how much the sole behind the throat deflects when the 1/8th turn is applied.
This is the small amount of metal which I suggest is removed by tuning. You will then be able to take a superfine shaving.
This advice applies to all shoulder and rebate planes. It is good to mark the spin wheel, so that a consistent tension can be set every time. Some users massively overtighten spin wheels. We only require the minimum tension which will keep the lever stable in use, but some users grip a tool far harder than others.
David Charlesworth
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