Shoulder plane oh what to buy ?????????????????

[Mreagleeyes]

There's always the Philly option......

Handmade in England...
Philly

That is lovely. Might get a call from me depending on funds.

 

[Philly]

Thanks! Just drop us a line.
Cheers
Philly

 

[Mattty]

There's always the Philly option......

Handmade in England...
Philly

That is a stunning plane Philly. I intend to invest in a philly plane next year.

 

[Philly]

Thanks Matty! That one is made from Ovangkol - I've got a wide selection of delicious timbers waiting to be planes.
Cheers
Philly

 

[afreegreek]

Apart from my Aled Dafis one - I use the medium LV - it's the right size for me.

For the uninitiated I think that what Alf is alluding to is the blade on a shoulder plane extends to the side edges - unlike a bench or shooting plane (LN No.9) - and therefore the shooting board edge will be cut into on each cut.


Rod

that all depends on how you use your shooting board.. I cut stuff square on the table saw and use the shoot to trim off angle to fit something that doesn't fit square most of the time. the lip usually does nothing more than lift the stock high enough to engage the blade and is not used as a 90 degree reference.

anyway, I built a little skate for my shoulder plane to ride on for use with my shoot. it's just a piece of 1/4" ply with a lip on three sides that holds the plane in place. just lay the plane in it and go.. works great for small thin pieces.

 

[afreegreek]

Apart from my Aled Dafis one - I use the medium LV - it's the right size for me.

For the uninitiated I think that what Alf is alluding to is the blade on a shoulder plane extends to the side edges - unlike a bench or shooting plane (LN No.9) - and therefore the shooting board edge will be cut into on each cut.


Rod

that all depends on how you use your shooting board.. I cut stuff square on the table saw and use the shoot to trim off angle to fit something that doesn't fit square most of the time. the lip usually does nothing more than lift the stock high enough to engage the blade and is not used as a 90 degree reference.

anyway, I built a little skate for my shoulder plane to ride on for use with my shoot. it's just a piece of 1/4" ply with a lip on three sides that holds the plane in place. just lay the plane in it and go.. works great for small thin pieces.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I agree, the new Stanley looks too good to be true - it's even cheaper than their standard one! I'm waiting for a proper review of one, nothing found so far. As I need it purely as an occasional "get out of a hole" tool, rather than an everyday one, that saving makes it very tempting, however good the Veritas is.

Boz

My Stanley 'Premium' #92 arrived yesterday from D&M Tools, after a three month wait. I think they underestimated demand!

I have to say it hasn't touched wood yet, though my initial reaction is that I'm well pleased and, if it works as well as it should, it's very good value indeed. I've had a #90 for many years and it's a firm favourite for all manner of jobs, but, if the new one lives up to expectations, I can see it being very well used.

I do have a few niggles though, one of which might be a right PITA - will have to see once I start using it. I'm also unsure about it being my first A2 steel blade - will this be a nuisance to keep honed, or will the extra toughness be an advantage?

I''ll do my best to get some pics and do a review ASAP, although do bear in mind my woodwork is 'rough' at best (as is my photography!).

Cheers,

 

[jimi43]

Philly...that is gorgeous mate!

On the Aled kit...it is for smaller work or delicate work...which, for me is just perfect. AND you get the pleasure of knowing you "sort of" made it....

As I said somewhere else on UKW just yesterday...I tried it in anger yesterday and it cut beeeeutifully! On tenons it just whizzes and you get a very fine finish....

But I am biased...to say the least!! :wink: 8)

Jim

 

[eoinsgaff]

For what its worth I'm selling a LN medium shoulder plane if you're interested.

Eoin

 

[NickUrquhart]

From what i've owned over the years, you could do much worse than pick up a good used Record/Clifton 420 or original Ed Preston 1367 on Ebay. As long as you get one with a good length blade and no damage from bench falls(watch for cracks on the clamp pivot sockets), they are pretty unbeatable value.
I've had some surprisingly useful attempts at making bevel down 18th C. types out of Beech. I find that the lightness of a Beech shoulder plane can give you more control, for less physical effort. A heavy iron body is definitely a plus for driving the blade through tricky grain which can sometimes throw the plane of track. Although, with the large Prestons, that were my favourites, i often found that the weight could be clumsy, especially on fine detail work such as squaring up the inner corner of rebates. Phil's plane looks like a good solid bit of kit, i'd love to see the patina on that plane in 100 years.

Apart from those, maybe worth sampling some planes, like the new Stanleys, at woodwork shows/shops, just to see what you actually prefer in your hands and that you can try on the type of work for which it is intended.
Cheers, Nick.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Shoulder plane size? Small, Medium or Large? Not attempting to fill Alf's shoes, but this one is new: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasSmallShoulderPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[big soft moose]

does no one fancy one of these then ?

if i could afford a dedicated shoulder plane thats definitely the route i would go down - as i cant i generally use a router