Shotgun stock lengthening

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skeetstar

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Gentles all, I need to lengthen a shotgun stock by about 6mm. Usually the manufacturers sell spacers for this purpose, but this particular gun is 25 years old and spacers are not available for it now. The spacer would sit in between the woodwork and the black plastic butt plate. The photo shows the butt plate backed off from the stock by about 8mm.

Some guns have a flat surface onto which the butt plate sits but this one has a gentle curve and I do not think I could do justice to the join by making a spacer out of solid timber and getting a good joint line between the existing wood and my new bit.

So my plan is to use the butt plate as a former, and build up a spacer using (probably) Walnut veneers. Effectively I will be making my own plywood spacer.
I will then be able to profile the my bit of bespoke ply to the long profile of the butt plate and it should be a good join to the timber work.


Question to those who have worked with veneers… does this sound achievable? Is it a sound approach? What thickness of veneer would be appropriate?

Any other methods or materials folks might suggest?
 

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LancsRick":b4sdmlzr said:
I'd get an extra thick recoil pad and do it that way myself much simpler.
Or a bit of black rubber.
fc3d972b58aaea9a15f901cadbf99800.jpg


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You could make this from wood, and at 6mm you wouldn't even need to build up from veneers to easily match that gentle curve, but you'd be into a cross-grain situation there which would be a problem if the plan was to bond it to the stock.

I'd think rubber, plastic or resin would be a much better bet for this.
 
As said a rubber type shock pad but I did it years ago using a scrap bit of black nylon sheet which easily moulded itself to the shape, I just cut slightly oversize and carefully worked it to fit.
In those days I worked for a plastics distributor so no problem but now it's available in sample sizes from on line suppliers so cheap as well.

The black looked great btw, I don't have the air rifle but might be a pic somewhere.
 
6mm? IKEA white chopping board. Easy to cut, has a bit of flex for the curve, will make a nice contrast to the black, and is £1.25.


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plus 1 for the nylon cutting board. I would cut it to shape, soak it in boiling water till its too hot to hols, then clamp or tape it tight into the curve untill its cold to get it into the shape. finish off the sanding once its all screwed down.
if you dont like the white, cover it with adhesive tape as the professional stockists do.
 
One good bit of advice I was given early in my career. 'You are not pouring oil here Boy. Don't split hairs son. An insult is an insult. He needs a lesson. Don't matter these days if he's a local boy. A lesson is a lesson. He needs a refresher in perspective yes?'
Another good bit of advice that might be follow this train of thought is to reevaluate how you see the issue. Ie: the perspective needs refreshing.

For example, if you cut the stock off altogether you will have a much more portable weapon. One stone. Two birds right. Thank me later.
Nail a leather strip to it an it's almost invisible under a longish coat and yet fully accessible. Take the barrels off and you will improve the accuracy no end.
Especially at low ranges like holding up drug dealers. You literally can't miss at 2 metres.

Worth thinking about.
Cheers
Chris
 
but, but, (get it?shotgun BUTT? good huh?),
anyway, but, which of the 6 pieces of advice in the first sentence was the good one?
people need to know, you know?
 
Well I plan to take the advice of the luminaries on here and have a go at a rubber or HDPE insert. I've sourced some suitable sheet and will get on the job next week.

After cutting with various types of blade, I'll need to get a smooth edge.. Ive heard of wire wool used on plastics, but is there anything that can smooth off rubber if I go that route?
 
Thanks for all the input folks. In the end I got a bit of black HDPE, heated it in a pan of water brought to the boil, and shaped it to match the curve of the butt plate. It stayed in shape, though I wondered if it would revert to flat as it cooled . Then shaped it to fit and fixed it in between the stock and butt plate..
It all worked fine,
 

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