Shooting board and plane grip

[Racers]

Hi Chaps

Messed around in the workshop this weekend and made this.



It makes Shooting much easer, no need for a gardening glove!

It fits nicely.



It's made from 3 layers of ply, 6mm for the inner, 6mm for the spacer cut to the shape of the side, and 12mm for the top.
I bandsawed out the hook and shaped it with a Millars Falls cigar shave, rasps and sandpaper.





Once I had made it a remade the top for my Shooting Board, the fence was bolted into some Tnuts countersunk into 18mm MDF, the lefthand M8 bolts go into 9mm holes allowing for some adjustment.



It now makes nice 90 degree corners and is a pleasure to use, I will have to make a ramped board next.

Pete

 

[Klaus Kretschmar]

That thing is cool, Pete! Not only the obvious comfort to hold the plane convinces. The slightly skew position of the handle makes perfect ergonomics to my eye. You get the downforce where it's necessary and you get the pressure against the workpiece "automatically". Good design to my eye!

BTW, the handles on your plane look interesting. Zebrawood? Olive?

Klaus

 

[Racers]

Thanks Klaus, the angled hook does keep the plane up against the board.
The plane handles are Teak, I had plank of stripy Teak most of it went into my dining chairs.
The leftovers I used for the handles, the plane cost me £7 I had it welded and now it's my go-to plane.


Pete

 

[rafezetter]

Nice handle Pete, maybe I should add one to my badger plane I picked up at Richards do, however I mention the plane for another reason - I bought it for the sole reason of turning it into a skew shooting plane; I've added a false side of UMHW to raise the skew cutting edge off the face of my shooting board runner (and lapped it so the blade face and side are perfect 90deg) but I can't for the life of me get it to shoot. The blade is hair slicing sharp, but despite my best efforts even the thinnest I can set the wood to be cut, it just won't do it; the blade hits the leading edge of wood and jams up.

Could it possibly be because a badger planes skew is angled the opposite way to a normal shooting skew plane ? (the top is in front of the bottom - slanting forwards instead of back).

Or is it just poor technique - is there some trick to a shooting board that is different from planing normally?

 

[Racers]

I would have thought you badger plane would work, I have a badger plane I will give it a try and let you know.

Pete

 

[bugbear]

Did you design that "from scratch" or did you take inspiration from Alf/Alan Peters?

http://cornishworkshop.blogspot.co.uk/2 ... ciple.html

BugBear

 

[Racers]

I remembered Alf's grip and also the hook Philly did for someone the old woody shooting planes and rolled them all into one and added the skew.

Pete

 

[gasman]

Pete that's nice - very comfortable / ergonomic looking!
is that a No 5 plane? Would it be sacrilege to suggest tapping a hole in the side like the T5 planes and adding a hot dog handle to your own spec design? Might look more flashy. I really like it though?
Cheers
Mark

 

[Racers]

Its a 5 1/2 with a welded up side so I wouldn't mind tapping it, but it fits my hand well so I think I will keep it as it is.
You could make a hook and screw it straight to the side, well at an angle :wink:

Pete

 

[Racers]

Nice handle Pete, maybe I should add one to my badger plane I picked up at Richards do, however I mention the plane for another reason - I bought it for the sole reason of turning it into a skew shooting plane; I've added a false side of UMHW to raise the skew cutting edge off the face of my shooting board runner (and lapped it so the blade face and side are perfect 90deg) but I can't for the life of me get it to shoot. The blade is hair slicing sharp, but despite my best efforts even the thinnest I can set the wood to be cut, it just won't do it; the blade hits the leading edge of wood and jams up.

Could it possibly be because a badger planes skew is angled the opposite way to a normal shooting skew plane ? (the top is in front of the bottom - slanting forwards instead of back).

Or is it just poor technique - is there some trick to a shooting board that is different from planing normally?

I tried mine and it works o/k, I would take a step back and see if you can use it as a badger plane first. it might just be that it needs tuning, I can't see why it shouldn't work.


Pete

 

[rafezetter]

Well I did all the tuneup beforehand, lapped the base, made sure the wedge was doing what it should and was tight, and as mentioned the blade itself was razor sharp and set as fine as I could, so I'm at a bit of a loss.

Although - I never actually tried it as a normal plane so I'll try that :roll:

 

[bugbear]

Well I did all the tuneup beforehand, lapped the base, made sure the wedge was doing what it should and was tight, and as mentioned the blade itself was razor sharp and set as fine as I could, so I'm at a bit of a loss.

Although - I never actually tried it as a normal plane so I'll try that :roll:

Just try it "free" on the end grain of a large piece held vertical in the vice - possibly two pieces held together, since planing small surfaces is tricky.

BugBear

 

[Sheffield Tony]

Could it possibly be because a badger planes skew is angled the opposite way to a normal shooting skew plane ? (the top is in front of the bottom - slanting forwards instead of back).

I've several times seen the recommendation of a Badger plane for shooting, and it has always seemed to me just about the least appropriate choice; not only would you need to nail a bit of wood to it to avoid planing your shooting board away, but the skew is wrong (unless you are left handed) so will tend to lift the workpiece. In other words - I'm not surprised.

 

[Racers]

Luckily I have a dust groove in my shooting board it still took a small shaving off non the less.
even left handed I had to pack the work up to get near the blade.
I woody tryplane on a ramped board would seem a better choice.

Pete

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Ingenious yet simple means of ensuring the action of shooting is more comfortable.

Good work

David