Karl":yq4pbxmi said:You turned real neanderthal and honed it freehand
Of all the possibilities the simplest was never going to be an option as it had to involve a jig to be sure that it was exactly the 'right' angle :wink:
Shennanigans with the 112...
- Thread starter woodbloke
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Of all the possibilities the simplest was never going to be an option as it had to involve a jig to be sure that it was exactly the 'right' angle :wink:
woodbloke
Established Member
Steve, no, the angle I chose is purely arbitrary...35deg seemed a reasonable angle being 10 less that the honed edge. The main thing is that once I'd figured that the planer grinding jig would sort of do the job it really only took around 10 mins to get that bevel. I actually did think about doing it freehand but bottled out... I'm going to get the latest version of the Tormek plane and chisel jig at the AxBash next month so that I won't have to use the planer blade jig again - Robpromhandicam":3olmi15w said:Karl":3olmi15w said:You turned real neanderthal and honed it freehand
Of all the possibilities the simplest was never going to be an option as it had to involve a jig to be sure that it was exactly the 'right' angle :wink:
Benchwayze
Established Member
I would use my Planer Blade attachment Rob; (as I see you did.) This also takes the wide, blades of my faithful, old Britool Mitre-Trimmer', and once ground, they are 'wicked-sharp'...
My scraper plane is the Stanley type, the model with handles like a spokeshave. Works a treat, when the occasional need comes along.
My scraper plane is the Stanley type, the model with handles like a spokeshave. Works a treat, when the occasional need comes along.
woodbloke
Established Member
David C
In Memorium
Well, I still prefer the Eclipse type option.
The small roller makes cambering and setting of the blade, much easier.
The 35 degree grinding is an excellent idea. The sharp 45 degree edge with a hook seems infinitely preferable to the 60 degree perversion suggested in the original literature.
The first is a cutting edge producing a type two shaving. The second is a type three scraping shaving. It is only recommended because it is easier to set up than the hook, where there are many parameters to go wrong. I cover this in detail in my 6th DVD.
best wishes,
David Charlesworth
The small roller makes cambering and setting of the blade, much easier.
The 35 degree grinding is an excellent idea. The sharp 45 degree edge with a hook seems infinitely preferable to the 60 degree perversion suggested in the original literature.
The first is a cutting edge producing a type two shaving. The second is a type three scraping shaving. It is only recommended because it is easier to set up than the hook, where there are many parameters to go wrong. I cover this in detail in my 6th DVD.
best wishes,
David Charlesworth
woodbloke
Established Member
David, I don't think the combined efforts of Napoleon's Grand Army and the Roman legions would have any success in persuading you to part from an Eclipse gauge :lol: :lol: The idea here was simply to relieve the 45deg bevel (which is too wide to keep on honing) by removing most of it and replacing it with a 35deg ground bevel, in much the same way that you would do with a normal plane iron. This means that it's now easy to to hone the edge at 45deg, polish the back (ruler trick) and then turn the hook. I've also found that if the sharp corners are relieved, or rounded slightly, there's no 'dig in' so no need to camber the blade. I tried it yesterday on a test piece of oak and it now works very well...which it didn't straight out the box - RobDavid C":3m6rlk6l said:
David C
In Memorium
Rob,
Your method is almost precisely the same as mine except for the camber detail.
I was nitpicking, the Eclipse type being slightly cheaper and needing no modification.
Ron Hock makes excellent blades for the 112. They are 2.4mm thick and work very well, I have one fitted to an old Stanley, so I wonder if there is any gain from the extra thick L-N blade at all?
best wishes,
David
Your method is almost precisely the same as mine except for the camber detail.
I was nitpicking, the Eclipse type being slightly cheaper and needing no modification.
Ron Hock makes excellent blades for the 112. They are 2.4mm thick and work very well, I have one fitted to an old Stanley, so I wonder if there is any gain from the extra thick L-N blade at all?
best wishes,
David
