sharpening woodturning tools

[Blister]

Hi , can anyone recommend a book / video / dvd on sharpening woodturning chisels ?

I think some of mine are due to be done and I also think some have the wrong profile on them ?

HELP :shock:

 

[Bodrighy]

With all the chisels that you have I'd have thought you could turn for a couple of weeks before you'd have used all of them!! :lol:

Go into youtube and type in woodturning. there are a couple of videos there if you have a broadband connection.

Pete

 

[Anonymous]

A master at work... no jigs or fancy rigs... grinding made easy and simple ...only takes two years to learn :lol: (not!)

Tool Design and Grinding with Mike Mahoney:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4m8-8MNhpvY

 

[PowerTool]

"Woodturning tips and techniques" by Carol Rix (ISBN 1-86108-439-0) - as well as being a good book anyway,has a nice little section on sharpening.

Andrew

 

[SVB]

Thanks, I found that clip very good. Is is possible to save / download these types of clips from youtube or is it a on-line view only service?

 

[Alf]

Simon, try this.

Cheers, Alf

 

[John McM]

Tormek.com
look at the dvd film clips

I went the Tormek route as I already had 1 for cabinetmaking tools. It removes the need for skill when sharpening spindle gouges etc. Easy, repeatable results.
Regards
John

 

[greggy]

me too john, cant praise it enough \/

 

[Wanlock Dod]

Blister,

Much of my woodturning knowledge was gleened from Rowley's book, but I did find that, at least when it came to gouges, his advice on sharpening was pretty useless. Not having any joy I bought a Sorby Fingernail jig, but still didn't find things entirely satisfactory, even though I had a sharp edge.

Not so long ago I spent a couple of days on a course with Tony Wilson, who described a rather different approach to sharpening freehand. It basically involves holding the tool against the grinder and rolling it between thumb and forefinger with a grip right at the end of the handle (so that you don't change the position of the tool, just which way up it is).

I'm not sure if that will make any sense, but I'm totally converted (anyone want to buy a jig?) and find it a far more flexible approach to sharpening. As Graham seems to suggest, it really ain't that difficult. I would say though, that watching a "master at work" for ten or fifteen minutes is probably priceless.

Cheers,

Dod

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Dod

glad you've sorted your grinding without having to resort to any fancy gizmos (nowt against jigs ... they do work... mostly :wink: )

Takes me about 3 minutes (most of which is talking) to show students the method; they usually pick it up within 5 mins ...

I'm tempted to point prospective students in the direction of Mike Mahoney's video stream ... so that they know 'how to' before coming on a course :wink:

 

[Bodrighy]

Does the quality of the tools make that much difference? I sem to be getting an edge on myine but it only lasts for a very short time. I was partinga piece off today when I saw smoke.It went blunt just in the short time it takes to cut about 1/2 inch into the wood. I haven't got a clue what make they are, theyseem very short and they bend easily so I'm guessing thy are pretty soft steel.

Pete

 

[Anonymous]

Pete, the difference in the quality of the steel can be measured by the number of trips to the grinder :wink:

There are more sophisticated explanations but I'll leave those to the folks who have experience of such things

 

[Bodrighy]

Pete, the difference in the quality of the steel can be measured by the number of trips to the grinder :wink:

There are more sophisticated explanations but I'll leave those to the folks who have experience of such things

In that case I think mine are made of cast iron
definitely have to get some new tools. My daughter bought me a Hamlet multi tip scraper for Christmas and it's fast becoming my main tool.
Pete

 

[Paul.J]

BODRIGHY WROTE
Does the quality of the tools make that much difference?

Pete.
The quality of a tool makes all the difference.I bought a cheap set when i first had my old lathe,and i was always going to the grinder.
But since i have started taking turning more serious i treated myself to another set of better quality and difference is very noticeable.
I am getting better cuts with the edge lasting a lot longer.

We used to test our chisels by getting a file and hitting the corner edge of the chisel on the corner edge of the file.If it nicked the chisel it was a soft steel.
You can also tell by the amount of sparks you get and the noise on the grind stone.
Best thing to do is treat yourself to one or more good quality gouges and see the difference.I used to look at the second hand tools at the shows but they are nearly new prices any how. :?
Paul.J.

 

[Anonymous]

All this talk of tools and grinding reminds me of Bill Jones' maxim...

If you think it needs sharpening, it does!

 

[Anonymous]

I'm glad to see Mike Mahoney not using a Tormek. I need to invest in a grinder but I don't have the money for a Tormek and associated jigs. I've read elsewhere on the forums that the record power grinder is supposed to be good, and at 45 quid it's a lot cheaper than a Tormek. Mike Mahoney mentions getting a decent tool rest. Any suggestions? Or is it not really required. If I buy a record grinder:

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/RPWRPBG8

Is the white stone ok to use or should I be getting a different stone. If a different stone is required where can I get it from (I live in north gloucestershire)?

I'm hoping to practice on some of my cheaper tools before sharpening the better ones.

Dave

 

[Paul.J]

I made my own version of the Tormek some years ago using Tormek parts from Rutlands,i think :? Tool rest,tool holder,and angle finder.
It's just my old Wickes wet grinder.Used it for chisels and plane blades,works fine,and also use it to sharpen gouges now,still need a steady hand though.Just practice. :wink:
Paul.J.

 

[George_N]

I'm glad to see Mike Mahoney not using a Tormek. I need to invest in a grinder but I don't have the money for a Tormek and associated jigs. I've read elsewhere on the forums that the record power grinder is supposed to be good, and at 45 quid it's a lot cheaper than a Tormek. Mike Mahoney mentions getting a decent tool rest. Any suggestions? Or is it not really required. If I buy a record grinder:

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/RPWRPBG8

Is the white stone ok to use or should I be getting a different stone. If a different stone is required where can I get it from (I live in north gloucestershire)?

I'm hoping to practice on some of my cheaper tools before sharpening the better ones.

Dave

The tool rest on the Record Power 8" grinder looks pretty much like the rests that come with most cheap grinders...next to useless. The Axminster and Veritas tool rests would fit the bill.

 

[CHJ]

..snip..Is the white stone ok to use or should I be getting a different stone. If a different stone is required where can I get it from (I live in north gloucestershire)?

I'm hoping to practice on some of my cheaper tools before sharpening the better ones.

Dave

This was my early solution and although the grinder has moved positionsI still use the same setup.
The gouge jigs get little use now because I have had enough practice to get it right 90% of the time freehand. (sometimes have to start again with the jigs when I wander too far off shape)

If you need to have a look PM me.

 

[Anonymous]

I've read elsewhere on the forums that the record power grinder is supposed to be good, and at 45 quid it's a lot cheaper than a Tormek.
Dave

choices... 6" the axminster one has (IMO) a better switch other than that they appear much the same apart from a small difference in price (Check del / min order costs)

The Ax tool rest has come down in price... used to cost around a fiver more! The DIY wood type works well and is easy to make... diagram and destructions in Keith Rowley's b foundation book