Sharpening - which method?

[Kalimna]

With regards to waterwheels (I have the cheaper Jet version of the Tormek, but principal the same, I think) - I seem to be having a bit of an issue with grinding the hollow bevel (something that should help me get down the freehand route, no?).
I seem to regularly have an edge (prior to honing/polishing etc) that is not perpendicular to the chisel/plane blade side. I think this may be because I am over-tightening one or both of the clamp lock-down knobs on the tool holder. The stone is always 'levelled' with the diamond dresser prior to use.
Can anyone suggest what I might be doing wrong?
It is rather infuriating to spend a while grinding a new bevel on A2 (and please, let's not have an A2/O1 'debate' ) blades to then find that I'm spending another 10 minutes with the honing because I have to get the edge square again. When the 'honing' shouldnt be more than a few strokes per stone to polish up a thin edge... If you see what I mean...
I would like to become proficient at the freehand honing, as I am now convinced that it is quicker than setting up jigs etc, but I don't see the point if I'm not starting off with a sqaure edge?

Cheers,
Adam (after spending a mammoth 6-7 hours regrinding chisel/plane bevels then honing them to hairs-off-the-arm-ness. 12 chisels, 7 plane blades...)

 

[Henning]

Well,

I've just had my first try with my brand new Tormek T-7 and 5 minutes after unpacking the machine and getting the stone wet enough i had an old chisel restored to former glory sharp enough to cleanly cut end grain pine.

I've never had results like that with anything else. Great machine, great instructions.

I remember that feeling when I got my Tormek!

It was great! I am looking to try some planer blades this evening. Just have 12-15 chisels to do first... :-D

 

[mr grimsdale]

With regards to waterwheels (I have the cheaper Jet version of the Tormek, but principal the same, I think) - I seem to be having a bit of an issue with grinding the hollow bevel (something that should help me get down the freehand route, no?).
I seem to regularly have an edge (prior to honing/polishing etc) that is not perpendicular to the chisel/plane blade side. I think this may be because I am over-tightening one or both of the clamp lock-down knobs on the tool holder. The stone is always 'levelled' with the diamond dresser prior to use.
Can anyone suggest what I might be doing wrong?
It is rather infuriating to spend a while grinding a new bevel on A2 (and please, let's not have an A2/O1 'debate' ) blades to then find that I'm spending another 10 minutes with the honing because I have to get the edge square again. When the 'honing' shouldnt be more than a few strokes per stone to polish up a thin edge... If you see what I mean...
I would like to become proficient at the freehand honing, as I am now convinced that it is quicker than setting up jigs etc, but I don't see the point if I'm not starting off with a sqaure edge?

Cheers,
Adam (after spending a mammoth 6-7 hours regrinding chisel/plane bevels then honing them to hairs-off-the-arm-ness. 12 chisels, 7 plane blades...)

If an edge is a bit off square I just try and correct with a bias in the right direction each time I hone , until it is OK. In the meantime it doesn't matter too much.
Freehand I don't use a wheel so don't have hollow ground bevels. The opposite in fact, slightly rounded over (if you look closely) which is OK as long as the edge itself stays at 30º
I also don't distinguish between honing and grinding in quite the same way as the 'modern' sharpeners.
If you weant to do it freehand then just keep it simple - stick to a double sided oil stone and no other kit at all, until you have got the hang of it. You can then go on to add a finer stone or two.
Also I'd stick to sharpen as necessary, rather than doing a big batch. If you are sharpening a tool as you use it, you get more attuned to what is actually happening, or failing to happen.
PS and you probably have too much kit. I'd suggest putting all you planes and chisels away in a cupboard except one plane (5 1/2 jack?) and perhaps 3 or 4 chisels. You can do 99% of most woodwork with this. Stick with them alone, and one double sided stone, until you really have got on top of it.

 

[Kalimna]

I know what you mean about too much kit, but I like having another plane I can go to when one gets a little 'blunt' (and normally this varies between a 5 1/2 and 7 I picked up cheap). I don't have anywhere in my workshop I can set up as a sharpening area, so I find it easier to do a whole batch of sharpening at once. Admittedly not normally so much as t'other day, but following on from another discussion about A2 edges crumbling, I thought I would change the primary bevel on my chisels. For completeness the plane blades too...
As far as the edge itself goes, I am more than happy and feel I am 'on top of it', merely the grinding on a waterwheelstone being an issue.
Cheers for the input,
Adam

And anyway, I like having a cupboardful of glasses and mugs to use for different drinks. I oould get away with one of each and just wash when used, but it's nice to have more than one..... Same idea (tho not cost or numbers of!!!) with edge tools...... If you get my drift.

 

[Lons]

No need for the T7 the only difference I could find was that the T7 motor can be ran all day where as the T3 is only for light use.

I think there's a lot different.

Stiffer casing- (I think the T3 has plastic - T7 metal)
heavier motor
Larger wheel
Additional accessories inc, stone diamont true guide.

Mine's on order waiting delivery.
Not sure I can justify it but always regret buying lower spec equipment unless I treat as disposable.