Sharpening video on youtube

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Aled Dafis":2a0jopk6 said:
Rob, yes the Diamond paste is great, here's the link

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Diamond-Tools

I've used them a few times for taps and dies etc. and their products seem to be great quality at a reasonable price, their service is good also, pretty much next day.

Cheers
Aled
Thanks for that Aled, now bookmarked. As a matter of interest, you used the 1micron stuff in the video, but which one is it on the web site list?..unless I've missed something, which wouldn't be the first time :roll: - Rob
 
Harbo":2tpkodo0 said:
Nice video Aled - what camera did you use and did you employ a camera person or just a tripod?
It did seem to take a long time grinding especially as you were using the Norton 3M - mine normally just takes a couple of passes. It seemed a bit like Tormek speed? :)
How do you check for squareness - I normally use a very fine marker pen line to act as a guide.
Do ARC sell grades of paste?
One bit of criticism - were was the Male Voice Choir? :)

Rod

Thanks Rod, the camera is tiny little Sanyo Xacti 720p digital camcorder, but any digital camera with video function would do, it was set up on a tripod

The Norton 3X is pretty fast, I hardly put any pressure on the wheel to avoid overheating, the honed bevel on this Clifton 5 1/2 iron was over 2mm so a minute's grinding (1min, 4 sec to be pedandic - I just checked) is pretty good going in my book. From my experience of the smaller Tormek, I'd expect the same operation to take at least 3 or 4 minutes plus faffing about with the jig/post setup, my grinding platform is never moved.

As regards squareness, if it were the first grind or removing a nick, I'd check with a square and adjust accordingly, but otherwise I just grind until the polished bevel is very fine (less than 0.5mm) all along the edge, I see no point in grinding all the way to the edge as you'd need to re-establish the shape/camber again.

No male voice choir here sorry, I did consider some kind of Welsh music (harp?), but couldn't find any that I liked so I went for a bit of Bach insted

Cheers
Aled
 
woodbloke":16j7vb09 said:
Aled Dafis":16j7vb09 said:
Rob, yes the Diamond paste is great, here's the link

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Diamond-Tools

I've used them a few times for taps and dies etc. and their products seem to be great quality at a reasonable price, their service is good also, pretty much next day.

Cheers
Aled
Thanks for that Aled, now bookmarked. As a matter of interest, you used the 1micron stuff in the video, but which one is it on the web site list?..unless I've missed something, which wouldn't be the first time :roll: - Rob

Mine is the W1.0 grade, which I assumed to be 1micron, I may be wrong however, it wouldn't be the first time. They equate the W1.0 grade to 15,000grit, so if not exactly 1 micron, it's pretty fine.

Cheers
Aled
 
Nice clear vid, Aled. Nowt wrong with a bit of classical music - I was forced to use some freeform bird song on mine and it's not as conducive... Bach, though? You don't want that. Is there no composer called quarter-sawn? :wink:

I've probably missed it, but what grit's your wheel? Could explain the difference Rod's noticed in grinding speed. Also, like Pete, I think I'd try to avoid the overspray if possible - maybe switch from aerosol to a squeezy bottle?
 
Alf":jc7cmtpy said:
Nice clear vid, Aled. Nowt wrong with a bit of classical music - I was forced to use some freeform bird song on mine and it's not as conducive... Bach, though? You don't want that. Is there no composer called quarter-sawn? :wink:

I've probably missed it, but what grit's your wheel? Could explain the difference Rod's noticed in grinding speed. Also, like Pete, I think I'd try to avoid the overspray if possible - maybe switch from aerosol to a squeezy bottle?

Thanks Alf, I think that my wheel is 60grit, but can't be sure. The overspray really doesn't bother me at all, if I notice it on the bench I just grab some shavings or a cloth to give it a wipe. I actually really like having a tin of AC90 on the bench it's great for so many things.

Cheers
Aled
 
woodbloke":2xiazcax said:
I'm tempted to invest in some of that gloopy diamond stuff Aled...seems to work very well on a strop.
Is that the stuff Arc Euro Trade sells as "Diamond Lapping Paste W1.0 (#15,000)", Aled ?
 
WoodMangler":8whgfno3 said:
woodbloke":8whgfno3 said:
I'm tempted to invest in some of that gloopy diamond stuff Aled...seems to work very well on a strop.
Is that the stuff Arc Euro Trade sells as "Diamond Lapping Paste W1.0 (#15,000)", Aled ?

Yes that's the stuff, looks like they'll be inundated with orders this week (well maybe 2 orders).

Cheers
Aled
 
Aled Dafis":14vz6y5n said:
WoodMangler":14vz6y5n said:
Is that the stuff Arc Euro Trade sells as "Diamond Lapping Paste W1.0 (#15,000)", Aled ?
Yes that's the stuff, looks like they'll be inundated with orders this week (well maybe 2 orders).
Thanks - I've had a strop for ages, never known quite what to do with it though :)

My strop is leather on a stretching frame. I see yours appears to be stuck onto a solid block, is that better ?
 
I've never come across a stretching frame before, is it one of those that barbers use to hone cut throat razors? If so, then sticking your strop to a solid block would probably be better, it would give you more control over your stropping and avoid rounding over the edge.

Cheers
Aled
 
Pete Maddex":g1b2m2c3 said:
I have a small sink in my garage and two plastic chopping boards one with cutouts for the stones, that fit over the sink so all the mess is easily dealt with. Pete

That's a great idea Pete. =D> =D>
I have a sink as well and never thought of that - will definately rig up something similar

Bob
 
The saddler in Bideford sharpened with an interesting bit of kit. A narrow board about 25 inches long had a strip of Emery paper stretched along one side and a strip of untreated hide on the other. Both about 1.5 ito 2 inches wide.
Both strips had a short post about 5 inches from the end,perhaps 2 inches high?

I commented on the coarseness of the emery, but he said the leather had its own abrasive qualities.

Best wishes,
David Charlesworth
 
David C":2ijdsw92 said:
The saddler in Bideford sharpened with an interesting bit of kit. A narrow board about 25 inches long had a strip of Emery paper stretched along one side and a strip of untreated hide on the other. Both about 1.5 ito 2 inches wide.
Both strips had a short post about 5 inches from the end,perhaps 2 inches high?

I commented on the coarseness of the emery, but he said the leather had its own abrasive qualities.

Best wishes,
David Charlesworth

I can't vouch for the abrasiveness, but who am I to question a saddler as to the properties of leather??
 
matthewwh":3eokwqc5 said:
Nice one Aled,

I'm trying a 120 micron DMT extra extra coarse at the moment as a silent, flat, cordless alternative to a grinder and I have to say I'm very impressed with it.

You are not alone with the classical music thing, nothing to be ashamed of there mate.

Matthewwh, are you using the new hardcoat extra big DMT plate?

Sharpening on diamond plates is not recommended AFAIK as it kills
the plate. The diamonds get pulled out. Using it for flattening waterstones
they can be used for a lifetime.

Thanks for the video.
 
Tony,

Very good thank you. I start my short courses in May.

Looking forward to some people, this convalescence is getting boring now!

best wishes,
David Charlesworth
 
It's good to hear you're on the mend David, I've been off work since Monday with the flu and tonsillitis, and I'm starting to loose it already, I bet that being laid up for a long period must be terrible.
 
I was just asked on another forum (Sawmillcreek) why I raised the iron a few degrees when working on the diamond stone as opposed to just working on both the front and back edges of the hollow bevel. I thought that this was an important question, and have copied the answer here for completeness.


The reason is simple, I raise the iron a little because it's easier, did I mention that I'm probably the laziest sharpener around so this method evolved to make life as easy as possible. This is the only method I've used where I don't put off sharpening for another couple of minutes... That was my eureka moment!

Raising the iron means that you'r only working a thin band of metal no more that 1/16th wide, which is dead easy to raise a burr, even if you're at a slightly different angle than your previous sharpening, absolute accuracy and repeatability isn't needed, you just need to be in the right ballpark, which becomes second nature, just find the hollow grind and raise a little. Honing on both the front and back of the hollow grind means that you're taking away twice the metal - now an 1/8th - and expending twice the effort in doing so, that back edge (furthest away from the edge) never sees the wood, so why bother honing it? Also, honing both the front and back of the hollow will mean that you need very good technique and repeatability to ensure that you avoid rounding over your bevel.

Where you hone (front only or front+back) has no effect on the frequency of your trips to the grinder, as the metal honed off the front edge is what governs the grinding, what happens further back is just a consequence of the process. However, grinding with my dry grinder and Norton 3X is a quick and effortless process, it only equates to about six seconds per sharpening.


Regards
Aled
 
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