Mornin' Morris.
As already suggested, when grinding a gouge with swept back wings you benefit by having a 'U' shaped groove. Rather than a 'V' shaped one. Also the depth of the groove makes a big difference to the shape as well. Some bowl gouge grooves are only ground to half way into the bar, this type leaves a very thick/heavy bevel at the nose. The others are ground so that the groove is 2/3rds into the depth of the bar, IMO this is the type you need for a very versatile grind. Also these grinds only really work on gouges that are 3/8th and bigger, the smaller ones don't really have the strength for you using the full side edge.
Andrew mentioned about turning a gouge on it's back to grind the corners of the groove to the shape you desire. Good idea, I always do this with a new gouge, and it is possible to follow up with grinding free hand, BUT I think that a jig is the only way to go if you want a good grind with a consistent shape. They are very easily made so need not cost lots.
Hi Steve, you don't need a swept back grind, and I would suggest that anyone who is learning should stay with the conventional grind. Once competent with a chisel though you can do a variety of different cuts with a swept back tool. 1/ The tip is a lot narrower than normal so can take small cuts deep over the rest. 2/ The wings really come into their own when used on the outside of the bowl, you can work from the tip, then swinging your hand move the cut onto the wing and the further you go round the heavier the cut is. 3/ You can use the wing edge for sheer cutting, and sheer scraping. There are probably a lot more cuts, and the more you use this type of tool the more you find for yourself. Also I don't think there is a perfect grind, you can grind a bowl gouge from about 80deg, to 45deg on the nose. You grind for your preference, and the job in hand. That is why some turners have a lot of gouges, beats regrinding if you needed a different profile.
Apologise for dragging it out :wink:
