Sharpening card scraper with the Vertias variable burnisher?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Chems

Established Member
Joined
23 Apr 2008
Messages
4,065
Reaction score
0
Location
A Wood Haven
I love my card scraper, it was my first LN tools and my first hand tool that worked. I can get nice curly shavings but my technique is obviously not perfect as sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

I watched the WoodWhisper video on it this week and tried his method, didn't work very well for me.

Heres what I do, remove any existing burr with a file and then file the end (possibly not getting it square enough) then I just run the burnisher over it with a good amount of pressure set for a 15 degree bevel.

When this works I get a great result but I don't always seem to. I think its my preparation of the edges, can you give me some advice?

TIA!
 
Hi,

I find you get a better smoother edge with a polished edge and side, you can use the ruler trick in the sides.

Then gradually form the burr by steepening the angle of the burnisher, and polish that burnisher I find it makes a difference. The old timers used to wipe the burnishers on the side of their noses to pick up some grease to lubricate it.


Pete
 
Chems":iovt05qb said:
I think its my preparation of the edges

I don't use the variable burnisher myself, but you say that you prepare the edges of the card scraper with a file before burnishing (this is in line with the LV instructions). However, when preparing a scraper, it's normal to polish the edges with a honing stone before burnishing. I wonder if you'd get better results if you tried this?

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
I haven't got any polishing stones. I do have the tormek but not sure it would work for this. So its important to polish the edges before trying it and also to work up through the angles?
 
If you don't have any stones, do you have any fine wet and dry paper? Stick a bit on to some MDF and you'll probably get a similar result. :wink:

I usually find I can fold the burr back over on itself three or four times before I have to get the file out - it's something I've seen Mick Hudson demonstrate at Westonbirt.
 
Chems":3iozc8y6 said:
So its important to polish the edges before trying it and also to work up through the angles?

Using just a file will give you quite a rough edge, so the hook you end up with when you turn the edge will be similarly rough. I would suggest you treat the edge as you would a plane blade and get it as smooth and polished as possible before you turn it with the burnisher. If you don't have any stones, do as Olly sugests and use some fine wet and dry.

Have you tried an ordinary burnisher - it might be easier to see what's going on?

The other point about burnishers is not to use too much pressure when turning the edge. If you use too much pressure you can end up with too big a hook, which will tend to be weak and fail quite early.

As Olly suggests, have a word with Mike Hudson on the Clifton stand if you visit any of the shows. He's really good with scrapers and can demonstrate how easy it is to get good results.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Paul Chapman":1vkg7v4x said:
Chems":1vkg7v4x said:
So its important to polish the edges before trying it and also to work up through the angles?

Using just a file will give you quite a rough edge, so the hook you end up with when you turn the edge will be similarly rough. I would suggest you treat the edge as you would a plane blade and get it as smooth and polished as possible before you turn it with the burnisher. If you don't have any stones, do as Olly sugests and use some fine wet and dry.

Have you tried an ordinary burnisher - it might be easier to see what's going on?

The other point about burnishers is not to use too much pressure when turning the edge. If you use too much pressure you can end up with too big a hook, which will tend to be weak and fail quite early.

Good advice.

I have a purpose-made burnisher hardened, polished rod with a wooden handle. I only realised how much difference it makes when I mislaid it and, being in a hurry, tried to get by with the shaft of a large screwdriver instead. It's fairly smooth and shiny, but the edge was nowhere near as good.

Like Paul, I find the lightest touch works - too much and the edge just breaks off again (and you have to start again from scratch on the stone, as the surface left behind isn't true and square).

I don't have a scraper plane (yet!), but I love the tactile nature of getting such fine shavings, and the finish a simple card scraper leaves behind.
 
As you suspected and others have confirmed Chems achieving a polished corner between the face and edge is a very important step, if you stand the scraper on its edge diagonally you won't wear a line in whatever you are honing the edge on (I hope that makes sense).

The other element you didn't mention is ticketing, with the scraper laid flat, just on the edge of the bench, run the burnisher over it using moderate pressure to squish the steel out and form the burr. it makes a tick, tick sound as you run on and off the edges - hence the name. Then turn the burr back so that it forms the hook sticking out from the face side. You only need to ticket when forming a burr in the first place, threafter running a burnisher along the edge will refresh the hook.

Best of luck!
 
Thanks for all the advice, I will try give it all a go today and see if I get better results.
 
Chems":3icxwn2r said:
I haven't got any polishing stones. I do have the tormek but not sure it would work for this. So its important to polish the edges before trying it and also to work up through the angles?

If you have the Tormek, then just hold the edge of the scraper to the side of the stone. Works great for the straight edges scrapers.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top